Proper lowering setup/components

[mfergel]

OK, right now I'm running the following setup.
Roush springs (1/1.25 inch drop)
J&M adjustable panhard bar
J&M upper and lower non-adjustable control arms
K-arm brace

I plan on switching out my suspension and this is what I have collected so far for the upgrade
UMI adjustable upper control arm
Eibach Sportline springs (1.6/2.0)
J&M camber plates
Ford Racing (Tokico) springs/struts

Trying to figure out what I'm leaving out here. Feel like something is missing. Should I look at some adjustable sway bar links with that drop? Maybe adjustable lower control arms as well? Control arm relocation brackets? Anything I should do with the tie rod ends? Balljoints?

 

[Roadracer350]

I it was me I would do adj LCA, brackets, tie rods, ball joints. Don't mess with front control arms. From what I have been told you want your front A arms flat and parallel with the ground. If you do 2" you will probably need to trim your bump stops and or relocate them. You will also need to set your pinion angle. Depending on the width of your tires an the location of the fender lips especially on the front you may need to roll your inner fender lips. That's what I am going to need to do this weekend on mine. Do not take this as a guide. This I just my opinion. For the proper set up you need to talk to a REAL suspension guy. Call Vorshlag and talk to Terry or Jason and they will point you in the right direction!

 

[csamsh]

Also, if you plan on doing anything that involves turning and going fast, I would not run the Sportlines with a stock style strut. They eliminate most all of your bump travel and lead to a pretty bad ride/understeer.

I second talking to Terry or Jason.

 

[mfergel]

I it was me I would do adj LCA, brackets, tie rods, ball joints. Don't mess with front control arms. From what I have been told you want your front A arms flat and parallel with the ground. If you do 2" you will probably need to trim your bump stops and or relocate them. You will also need to set your pinion angle. Depending on the width of your tires an the location of the fender lips especially on the front you may need to roll your inner fender lips. That's what I am going to need to do this weekend on mine. Do not take this as a guide. This I just my opinion. For the proper set up you need to talk to a REAL suspension guy. Call Vorshlag and talk to Terry or Jason and they will point you in the right direction!

I do have shortened Roush bump stops. I might still need to do a relocate with them. I'm thinking the 2" might be a bit too much yet for them. I should be fine on the tire width/offset as I planned that way ahead and the tuck for the tire is pretty much even and haven't experienced any rubbing thus far. The pinion angle is why I went with purchasing an adjustable upper control arm. I'm thinking getting adjustable lowers should help keep the wheel centered front to back, especially if I decide to get relocation brackets.

Also, if you plan on doing anything that involves turning and going fast, I would not run the Sportlines with a stock style strut. They eliminate most all of your bump travel and lead to a pretty bad ride/understeer.

I second talking to Terry or Jason.

Well, for now I don't "plan" (we know how that goes) to do any major go fast turning. I do agree that at some point I need to look at an adjustable shock/strut for use with those springs.


My hope is to get as many parts as possible now and I'll most likely take it into Performance Autosport for install just to make sure everything is setup right. Most likely in the late spring, so I'm trying to get a jump on things now. Maybe I should go ahead and sell the shocks/struts now and look into the KYB's.

 

[csamsh]

Well, for now I don't "plan" (we know how that goes) to do any major go fast turning. I do agree that at some point I need to look at an adjustable shock/strut for use with those springs.

Hmm not quite what I meant- it's not the adjustability that's the factor, but the actual shape of the strut housing that will cause you to not have lots of bump travel with the Eibach Sports.

 

[mfergel]

Hmm not quite what I meant- it's not the adjustability that's the factor, but the actual shape of the strut housing that will cause you to not have lots of bump travel with the Eibach Sports.

I see what you're talking about. I've never fully looked at the difference in the housing/design. The adjustable KYB's would be a better choice though, right?

 

[Roadracer350]

If your going below 1.5" get relocation brackets. The adj lowers will help center the rear with the front and put them in the center of the wheel well. You REALLY need to call Vorshlag and talk to them. Jason or Terry can tell you EXACTLY what you need, how to do it and what to expect ride and handling wise.

 

[sheizasosay]

Why did you pick those parts? What is the intent? And which of the J&M control arms do you have? Street extreme joint or polyball?

 

[mfergel]

Why did you pick those parts? What is the intent? And which of the J&M control arms do you have? Street extreme joint or polyball?

Right now I have these J&M's on the car.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/upper-control-arms-jandm2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-powdercoated-rear-trailing-arms.html

I have the following UMI Upper not yet on the car.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_131&products_id=257
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_131&products_id=344

 

[Whiskey11]

As a correction, front LCAs with a lower ball joint than k member mounting point raises the front roll center and improves camber curve. You want enough RC height to keep the RC above ground during max body roll. That is a big if I remember correctly though...

 

[sheizasosay]

Well as far as handling goes, you certainly won't have any bind with your selected control arm replacement parts, but be READY for some NVH. Trust me....it's waiting for you.

I just erased what I was about to type because I see that you are close to Performance Autosports. That's a gold mine. It's not easy getting bump steer kits installed and done right. I dont' think anyway. I've gotten some pretty blank stares in my quest. I'm still looking actually.

Seriously call them. No bullshit.

On another note, take it for what it's worth, but I would sell those Tokico dampers, Eibach Springs and put that money towards Koni Yellows. That's me.

 

[jmauld]

I see what you're talking about. I've never fully looked at the difference in the housing/design. The adjustable KYB's would be a better choice though, right?

No, none of the OE replacement struts will help with the issue he's referring to. You need a strut that has a shorter body/housing, and as far as I know, KONI, KYB, Tokico, Steeda, Bilstein, etc, all have a body that is the same dimensions as factory.

You have to go to something like AST or KW to get a shorter body.

 

[Roadracer350]

Or sell them and put money on top of that and get some coils!

 

[csamsh]

Koni Yellows are .3" or so shorter, I remember Kelly from BMR had posted some pictures of some measurements in another thread demonstrating this.

Bilsteins are quite a bit shorter, and are actually inverted. I think maybe by an inch or so.

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=559


I probably wouldn't mess with balljoints and tie rod ends, unless somebody who knows what they're doing is doing the install.

 

[jmauld]

Bilsteins are quite a bit shorter, and are actually inverted. I think maybe by an inch or so.

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=559

That's awesome. I don't recall there being a difference when I installed my Bilstein HDs. But maybe these are not the same housings as the HDs?

 

[zeroescape]

I think if was going to do it again. Id get a non adj UCA with a bracket that has options for different locations and adjust pinion via LCA. Right now im running poly/rod adj lca with poly adj uca with the steeda spherical up top of dif. Problem i get now is that everything wants to rotate up top making it hard to keep jam nuts tight. Not to mention the pita everytime it needs to be tighten.

 

[sheizasosay]

Performance Autosports "knows" what they are doing.

The whole "shorter strut " deal will not be a factor for the Roush springs he has if using koni yellows.

The bilsteins that Vorshlag carry are shorter. With roush springs, I don't believe they are necessary. Roush springs I had was about .75" drop up front.

 

[mfergel]

From what I understand, the Ford Racing struts/shocks I have ARE a shorter design than stock. I'd have to go back and double check. I think it was 1" if I recall. I'll need to double check the part number on the ones I have but believe it was these ones, which are said to be designed for lowered vehicles. - http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-shockstrut-0514gtv6.html

The Roush springs are what I have now. They are supposed to be 1/1.25 but installed height was 1/1.5. I was looking to install the Eibachs to bring it down just a little further. Honestly, I've been wondering if I should put them on or not as the car is ALSO a daily driver. I know coil overs would be optimal but honestly, I've had them in the past on a different vehicle and just don't want to deal with them anymore.

Zeroscape, the rotation of everything was one thing that concerns me and I see comments on both sides (to go with a sperical setup or not).

As for installs, yeah, as mentioned I'll have Performance Auto do it. They're only a few miles from my house so install won't be an issue.

 

[csamsh]

Performance Autosports "knows" what they are doing.

The whole "shorter strut " deal will not be a factor for the Roush springs he has if using koni yellows.

The bilsteins that Vorshlag carry are shorter. With roush springs, I don't believe they are necessary. Roush springs I had was about .75" drop up front.

Agreed. Those eibach sportlines are very low though.

 

[BMR Tech]

I did do some measuring, and the measurements of the Koni's (STR.T and Yellows) are both slightly off, compared to the factory struts. I am working with their engineering dept to see what the "exact" effects are, from the measurements I have taken.

As for the strut travel - the Konis, IIRC, have 1/4" to 1/2" more travel in bump, compared to the OEM pieces.