Rear brake pad issues

[Docktour Z]

To preface this issue, I searched and I rented the tool from AutoZone.

I changed out the fronts with no problem at all. I moved onto the back and got everything apart and when I go to use to compression tool (put the metal disc with two notches into the piston of the caliper and put pressure pushing INTO the pistol and turning at the same time) I get no movement. I tried removing the cap off of the reservoir, no help. I removed the e-brake cable from the caliper, no help. I don't know if I need to replace the caliper because both are doing it. Is there something I am missing? I extensively researched it and can't find anything.

 

[MADGT]

I would have thought you had e-brake engaged, but since you stated you removed the cable I don't know....and I assume you are turning it clockwise? Was everything working normal before?

 

[Docktour Z]

Yeah, everything was working normal before sans a grinding noise because the brake pad was worn down so far (driver rear slightly worse than passenger)

 

[MADGT]

Ok, I replaced my rotors/brakes less than a month a go...I had no issues. I know compressing the caliper is hard because you have to hold with one hand and turn with the other. Do you have the right tool? This is what I used. It allowed me to compress and turn at the same time.

 

[Docktour Z]

100% the exact tool, I put the bracket that looks like a brake pad against the outside edge of the inside of the caliper. I got that seated tight in there and I have a pair of vice grips on that nut (that controls the tension pushing in) and I turn that T handle clockwise with all of my might and I get 0 movement. Am I missing something?

 

[MADGT]

Let think outside the box--did you release the e-brake prior disconnecting the cable? If not, recommend you do this...reconnect the cable, release the e-brake and try again. If you released the e-brake prior disconnecting the cable, then I have no ideas what's going on here.

 

[07TGGT]

He shouldn't have to even touch the e-brake at all after releasing it prior to working on the rear brakes.

Once the e-brake is disconnected, it shouldn't have any effect on the caliper.

 

[Docktour Z]

Let think outside the box--did you release the e-brake prior disconnecting the cable? If not, recommend you do this...reconnect the cable, release the e-brake and try again. If you released the e-brake prior disconnecting the cable, then I have no ideas what's going on here.

The e-brake is completely disconnected from the caliper so it shouldn't really have an effect.

He shouldn't have to even touch the e-brake at all after releasing it prior to working on the rear brakes.

Once the e-brake is disconnected, it shouldn't have any effect on the caliper.

I am really out of ideas other than buying the new calipers. The pads got really now and from what I have read if they get too low the piston can be damaged resulting in the issues I am having at the moment. Should I remove the bleeder screw and try? I had the cap off the reservoir (is that considered the master cylinder when people say removed the cap?).

 

[MADGT]

I agree with you 100%, but the question I have is...if you did not release prior disconnecting the cable, would the e-brake stay in the engaged position? I mean, you have tried everything and no luck...what else could it be...a frozen piston? on both sides? I am running out of ideas here...

 

[Docktour Z]

I agree with you 100%, but the question I have is...if he did not release prior disconnecting the cable, would the e-brake stay in the engaged position? I mean, he has tried everything and no luck...what else could it be...a frozen piston? on both sides? I am running out of ideas here...

Exactly, I really have no clue what do to here. I have exerted a lot of force on getting the tool to turn and I feel like I have pulled or pushed more than hard enough to get the piston to compress.

 

[86GT351]

Instead of taking the cap off the MAster Cylinder go ahead and open the bleeder screw at the Caliper itself. If it does not go in then, you need to replace the Caliper.

 

[lethe]

It was a pain in the ass to compress the pistons on my rear calipers too. Like said above it's kind of tricky trying to hold the caliper and turn the wrench.

 

[Snakebyte94]

You do not compress the piston in the caliper. Put the tool on the piston and turn until it seats its self. The piston is a screw type.

 

[i am ryan]

Maybe a silly question, but just to clarify, you used the plate and screwed it back against the inside of the caliper, correct?

The first time I did this I learned just how hard you have to turn that mofo. I actually bent the t-handle a little getting it started. Throw some grease on the boot while you're at it which should help it from drying out and tearing.

 

[Kalatrax]

I agree with you 100%, but the question I have is...if you did not release prior disconnecting the cable, would the e-brake stay in the engaged position? I mean, you have tried everything and no luck...what else could it be...a frozen piston? on both sides? I am running out of ideas here...

You can't even remove the cable if the e-brake is engaged.

Exactly, I really have no clue what do to here. I have exerted a lot of force on getting the tool to turn and I feel like I have pulled or pushed more than hard enough to get the piston to compress.

Make sure you are using the "F" plate that comes in the set and like others have said, use the backing plate against the other side. The only force you need to exert is rotational.

 

[Docktour Z]

Instead of taking the cap off the MAster Cylinder go ahead and open the bleeder screw at the Caliper itself. If it does not go in then, you need to replace the Caliper.

Yeah, I cracked the bleeder screw and it didn't help..I then opened it to no avail.

It was a pain in the ass to compress the pistons on my rear calipers too. Like said above it's kind of tricky trying to hold the caliper and turn the wrench.

But if I put tension on the backing plate and turn it clockwise, shouldn't that do the trick?

You do not compress the piston in the caliper. Put the tool on the piston and turn until it seats its self. The piston is a screw type.

Yes I am doing that.

Maybe a silly question, but just to clarify, you used the plate and screwed it back against the inside of the caliper, correct?

The first time I did this I learned just how hard you have to turn that mofo. I actually bent the t-handle a little getting it started. Throw some grease on the boot while you're at it which should help it from drying out and tearing.

Yeah I am putting a lot of force, probably 80-100lbs of force into it. I'm not sure I can apply anymore force. Did you use a breaker bar?

 

[i am ryan]

Yeah I am putting a lot of force, probably 80-100lbs of force into it. I'm not sure I can apply anymore force. Did you use a breaker bar?

No, sir. I was however certain that I was putting enough pressure on it to rip the axle off the car, though. I'm about 6'0 230lbs. so if you're a smaller gentleman than I then a little bit of an extension on it may be the trick.

If it makes you feel any better, once it starts turning it gets a lot easier.

 

[steve13gt]

I found my 2013 much harder to turn then my 2003.. Might just be because it was newer, or never done before..

 

[TexasBlownV8]

The tool is not intuitive on how to get it seated properly, inside the caliper. You have to use it right and it works fine (just used one myself, again).
As mentioned, get the plate on the inside of the caliper, use the 'F' adapter on the end of the screw, then the tricky part: the rod is threaded through an adjustment nut that you turn to lock the plate in place against the inside of the caliper. If you dont do this, you cant just push in and turn!!!
Also, once the above is properly in place, you likely will need a wrench, pliers, etc. to hold that nut in place while you turn. Piece of cake. ...just can be a little hard to turn at times. And if the turning is easy, you're not doing something right. Plus as mentioned, remove the reservoir cap (leave it in place loose, but unseat it).

One word of advice, when you get it compressed all the way in, make sure the notches in the piston are oriented out, so that when a brake pad is installed, the tab on the pad goes into the notch. This is easy to overlook.

 

[Docktour Z]

We just bent the T-handle on the tool.......