Recently Installed Cams, Threw a Code

[Greg Hazlett]

+1 on unplugging the MAF and see if the car starts and runs; if it does it is tune related.

 

[3VPOWA]

Yes the car will still run sometimes with a tooth off but it would be crappy all the time. Does it run bad now at idle? Try starting the car with the maf unplugged.

9 times out of 10 and over retarded cam code with aftermarket cams is a setting in the tune and yes it will only do it every once in awhile. But i dont necessarily think this is the reason its running bad. Like other said check all your work all the bolts and make sure you dont have pinched wires or vac leaks anywhere. I hate to see you tear it apart to time it and not fix the problem.

It didn't run bad before this issue came up. I did forget to mention that I had uploaded the tune again Monday night but it drove around fine right after that. Only had the issue the next day on a "lengthy" trip. I did have my tuner with me though when this happened and tried reinstalling the tune again with no luck.

I ordered a new VCT solenoid today from Ford. I'm going to replace that and put everything back together hopefully tomorrow night or Friday. No wires looked pinched/frayed/cut/etc.

+1 on unplugging the MAF and see if the car starts and runs; if it does it is tune related.

I'll have to try that if it still doesn't run right after putting it back together.

 

[b00stedgt]

As others have said, if you used the timing chain wedge and the car did in fact run well for 3 days, I would not bother removing the timing chain cover or cracking the vlave covers.

 

[1/4MILEMUSTANG]

If you used the wedge tool to lock the chains during the install and it ran fine for 3 days afterwards its unlikely it skipped time. With the brake pedal going hard is a links to a loss of vacuum. The DTC codes linked to the alternator "diode" TSB is P0340/P0344. With the code you got I would be looking into the phaser/actuator solenoid on the drivers side. if the cam timing is indeed off it could cause a loss of vacuum in some instances and will definately cause a you issues. On the other hand there is a possibility the tune could throw a monkey wrench into things like previous posts have said. Did you install lockouts or limiters in your phasers by chance? While your under the cam cover I'd pull the phaser off and take the back plate off and check for smooth rotation of the phaser. Be careful because there is a little spring and piston that goes in the phaser. dont forget to mark the position of the longer screw that retains the clock spring.

 

[1lowtoy]

Why not datalog the cam position and see what you come up with? I don't like the idea of just replacing parts without being able to say they are bad before I take them off a car. More than likely you will be in the same boat with less money in your pocket.

 

[Noclutch]

Why not datalog the cam position and see what you come up with? I don't like the idea of just replacing parts without being able to say they are bad before I take them off a car. More than likely you will be in the same boat with less money in your pocket.

Good advice, take your time on this. I had problems too but it was a simple oversite that was the problem (oil and pollen on the MAF sensor was mine) Move the sensor, unplug and plug things back in, check and double check, have a buddy check it. Keep in touch with your tune supplier follow his advice before taking parts off that "might" be a problem.

Questions for the rest: Will Data logging express the point of problem? How would you know if if does?

Just curious.

Good luck,

 

[BruceH]

You have a vacuum problem. What's causing it is the mystery. Physically ensure all your vacuum lines are hooked up. Not just a visual but do a pull check on all vacuum lines. That's where I'd start anyway.

 

[3VPOWA]

As others have said, if you used the timing chain wedge and the car did in fact run well for 3 days, I would not bother removing the timing chain cover or cracking the vlave covers.

Yea, the chain was definitely wedged and there was tension on the sprocket when changing the cam out, so I strongly feel that the timing isn't off.

If you used the wedge tool to lock the chains during the install and it ran fine for 3 days afterwards its unlikely it skipped time. With the brake pedal going hard is a links to a loss of vacuum. The DTC codes linked to the alternator "diode" TSB is P0340/P0344. With the code you got I would be looking into the phaser/actuator solenoid on the drivers side. if the cam timing is indeed off it could cause a loss of vacuum in some instances and will definately cause a you issues. On the other hand there is a possibility the tune could throw a monkey wrench into things like previous posts have said. Did you install lockouts or limiters in your phasers by chance? While your under the cam cover I'd pull the phaser off and take the back plate off and check for smooth rotation of the phaser. Be careful because there is a little spring and piston that goes in the phaser. dont forget to mark the position of the longer screw that retains the clock spring.

I don't think it's the alternator. Wasn't having any problems prior to the cam install that would point me that way. I'm thinking I lost vacuum to the brakes because of the way the car was running. It would barely get over 1200 rpm when the gas pedal was pushed down and felt way down on power. Car was struggling to keep idle.

Why not datalog the cam position and see what you come up with? I don't like the idea of just replacing parts without being able to say they are bad before I take them off a car. More than likely you will be in the same boat with less money in your pocket.

Car won't run to datalog anything.

Good advice, take your time on this. I had problems too but it was a simple oversite that was the problem (oil and pollen on the MAF sensor was mine) Move the sensor, unplug and plug things back in, check and double check, have a buddy check it. Keep in touch with your tune supplier follow his advice before taking parts off that "might" be a problem.

Questions for the rest: Will Data logging express the point of problem? How would you know if if does?

Just curious.

Good luck,

Checked the MAF today, looked fine.

You have a vacuum problem. What's causing it is the mystery. Physically ensure all your vacuum lines are hooked up. Not just a visual but do a pull check on all vacuum lines. That's where I'd start anyway.

Would it there be vacuum problems if the car could barely hold idle?



To be honest, this Saturday I'm going to take everything apart and start over reinstalling everything. If I have problems after that I'm going to check the cam phasers. If those turnout to be a problem, I'll replace them new ones with lockouts added in. And if that doesn't solve it, then I don't know what.

 

[b00stedgt]

Yes a vacuum issue would yield an idle problem. I would not waste time going over the install again. maybe a friend could check for a vacuum leak for you

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Get some carb cleaner, if your car will idle, even if its shitty, spray it around anything vacuum related you removed and see if there is a change in the way it idles. You wont have to spray alot to see if the idle changes. Do your troubleshooting first before you start throwing parts at it or take everything apart.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Very good advice^

 

[BruceH]

Would it there be vacuum problems if the car could barely hold idle?

Yes. Having the cams out of time could cause a vacuum issue too. But before tearing everything apart go over those hoses! Do the easy stuff first.

You could also do a search on how to find a vacuum leak.

Edit: I see jewc75 saved you a search.

 

[3VPOWA]

Well here's my reason why I think I should do it all over.

We didn't have an in-lb torque wrench so I bought one from NAPA. The one I bought apparently had a messed up locking mechanism. It would lock, but could come unlocked and the bearing inside the locking mechanism would fall out. I took it back up there and said WTH. The guys told me it should still work and to use it and bring it back up there after I finish and they'd "defect" it out. So it still worked, but not great.

Today I took just a regular old wrench and felt on the bolts on the cam caps. The driver side felt tight, but the passenger side felt looser than the driver side. I'm starting to think the torque wrench wasn't calibrated correctly so I ordered a Snap-On today and should be here Saturday.

Unless I can retorque those bolts properly without having to go through the whole process of removing the followers, turning the crank over to the 6 o'clock position, yaddia ya, then let me know. That's the main reason I feel that I should start over from the beginning and go from there. I'm thinking the bolts didn't get torqued right and backed out over the period of 3 days that it was running.

And I'm not trying to be a pain, guys, and ignore your advice even though it seems to be coming across that way. I just don't think there is a problem with any hoses that caused a vacuum leak.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

The cam cap bolts are tightened to 7 ft lbs after you convert them from inches which is barely more then finger tight.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

You better hope that a cam cap didnt loosen. That can cause some serious head damage. If you really dont feel comfortable with what you did i would definately start over.

 

[3VPOWA]

The cam cap bolts are tightened to 7 ft lbs after you convert them from inches which is barely more then finger tight.

Yes, we initially used a ft-lb torque wrench, but I didn't trust the accuracy on it when you go down that low.

You better hope that a cam cap didnt loosen. That can cause some serious head damage. If you really dont feel comfortable with what you did i would definately start over.

None of the cam caps were loose as in they moved up and down by hand, but I do think the bolts backed slightly out of spec.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I had one of them come loose; the forward most on the drivers side head came loose but I could hear a clanking/clacking when rpm's started rising as the oil in the passages were lifting the cam cap up and having it contact the VC but the car ran and idled....pulled the VC off, tightened them and no issues after that.

I agree with Bruce this sounds vaccum related if it won't idle and you don't have brakes since the brakes are "fed" from vaccum.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Unless I can retorque those bolts properly without having to go through the whole process of removing the followers, turning the crank over to the 6 o'clock position, yaddia ya, then let me know. That's the main reason I feel that I should start over from the beginning and go from there.

Retorquing the cam caps definitely DOES NOT require you to repeat the tear down and install process. Absolutely NOT! Just loosen them up in reverse TQ sequence and then retorque them back down with a TQ wrench that actually works in the proper TQ sequence.........done with that.

So lets go back over this. You installed them, installed the CORRECT tune for your mods, drove around for 3 days without a single issue of ANY kind, and then all of a sudden your car starts running like crap and throwing codes?

When you took the valve covers off to check your work, just how loose were the cam cap bolts? Check all wires going to your COPS. Make sure they are pushed in all the way. Did you remove the plugs? If so, make sure they are TQ'd down correctly. Make sure your camshaft phaser and sprocket bolt is TQ'd correctly. Check continuity of the camshaft position sensor's and make sure they are fully secure in place without pinched or broken wiring. Make sure the camshaft position sensor themselves are torqued/tightened down.

If you are absolutely positive you never lost continuity of pressure on the timing wedge tool and the chain never moved during the procedure, it has to be a tune issue.


This mod is not that difficult, it's nuts and bolts. Remove and replace.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Which is why the unplugging the MAF to see if the car starts/idle's was suggested...

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Which is why the unplugging the MAF to see if the car starts/idle's was suggested...

Who's tune are you using? Just wondering