replacing panhard rod and rear sway bar bushings

MasterofDisaster

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My GT has just over 150k on it, and I thought I should replace the panhard rod and rear sway bar bushings. I changed them yesterday, 3apr25.

The sway bar took a little over two hours using a lift and with a friend helping. The link bar bushings are fairly easy to remove once you cut off the flange. A single edged razor works great for that. A box cutter works well too. The Energy Suspension bushings were very hard to slide onto the bar. I had to spray some silicone onto the bar in order to slide on the poly. I used the prothane grease at the final location. It was only 50º outside, but I had to remove my hoodie because I had to man handle those bad boys.

The panhard rod was a major pain the glutes. The old bushings have a metal sleeve that is pain to remove. Once you cut out the bolt sleeve and the rubber, you can make a cut into the bushing sleeve. Then you have to beat or press the sleeve out of the bar. Once you have one sleeve out, you can use it to beat or press out the other. The Energy Suspension bushings were easy to install. Don't forget that Ford wants to you remove & install the rod with the suspension at ride height. The right down link interfered with the smooth installation of the right panhard rod bolt.

Energy Suspension gives you plenty of prothane grease. That stuff is highly tacky.

You hear every road noise with polyurethane, but it's quieter and you don't have all the rattles and squeaks. The ride is firmer, but so is control. I'm glad I changed those worn out rubber bushings.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Occurred to me that the panhard rod bushings cost >$33. A new rod with poly bushings and grease fittings would only be $75. If I had it to do over again, I'd skip the hassle of removing the old bushings and install a new panhard rod.
 

skwerl

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Occurred to me that the panhard rod bushings cost >$33. A new rod with poly bushings and grease fittings would only be $75. If I had it to do over again, I'd skip the hassle of removing the old bushings and install a new panhard rod.
My only correction of your post would be to specify an adjustable panhard bar.
 

MasterofDisaster

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specify an adjustable panhard bar.
Fair enough. I would suppose you know more about it than I. I know the non-adjustable is $75 and the adjustable ones are more expensive.

I am committed to keeping mine a daily driver. I had thought of lowering springs a few years ago, but with all the trash on Michigan's roads, I think stock ride height is probably safest.
 

White Horse GTCS 2008

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Really helpful dialogue.

MasterofDisaster (), I also have a performance white GT (California Special), here in Sydney. Completed 115,000 miles. So also have commenced a proactive program of preventative maintainence and refresh. Just ordered new Ford Performance top strut mounts and Ford Performance lower control arms (front and rear). Also ordered new Motorcraft (OEM) rear shocks and new insulators (top and bottom) for rear springs. Plus, as a treat, the Steeda rear chassis brace- Youtube videos looked interesting re this item. Mine is a daily driver, though am working to keep it as reliable and fresh as possible. Currently looking at replacing front sway bar- though not there yet. As per your info- the front OEM is 34mm diameter (?). I was considereing replacing it with the Whiteline front swaybar kit- though that appears to be only 33mm diameter. What is your opinion- perhaps a step backwards? Best regards, Adrian
 

MasterofDisaster

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White Horse GTCS 2008

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Thanks MoD.
I note your comments re replacing the entire panhard bar rather than just the bushings. That makes solid sense.
Looks like I have another worthwhile ‘refresh’ task for my 2007 California Special.
For me, I’m going for 5 priorities- longevity, handling, performance, comfort (reduce in cabin NVH) and the 5th being ‘integration’.
I will look at RockAuto, Summit Racing, FRSport, Tascar etc to see if they offer a complete OEM (or other?) panhard pack for my vehicle.
Best to you.
 
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