Saleen intercooler pump stopped

[blackjack07]

I read the heads up on upcoming CA smog changes and bought an OBD2 to see if I could tell how well my numbers stand up. Tried the OBD out on the Xterra first with no issues. Plugged it into the GT, turned the key to on and immediately heard an unfamiliar, repetitive electric motor sound from the engine bay. Hood was already up and I tried to check to see if it was the IC pump. No spool up. Pulled the cap from the reservoir and no circ. Started the car and waited 10-20 seconds and still no circ. Shut the car off, pulled the OBD out, turned the key back to on and there was no sound. Started the car and let it run about one minute. Checked the res and no circ. Checked the in-line pump fuse, intact. Checked all the 10 and 15 amp fuses in the box, all intact. I am stumped and confused. Timer relay burnt? If so where do I find it? Car ran beautifully last time out with no problems. Any tips or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[Laga]

First, unplug pump and wire directly to ground and battery to see if it’s the pump or the power supply. If it doesn’t run, it’s the pump. If it does, there is a problem somewhere else.

 

[blackjack07]

First, unplug pump and wire directly to ground and battery to see if it’s the pump or the power supply. If it doesn’t run, it’s the pump. If it does, there is a problem somewhere else.

I can't get the car in the air and short of pulling the fender liner, I'm wondering if I can just unplug the 6 lead timer connector and jump it?

 

[blackjack07]

Well that didn't work. And now the car won't start. I get "Check Charging System" alert and a "Low Fuel Level" alert.

Edit: Multi meter testing reveals a bad PCM relay diode, a bad PCM relay fuse and what may be an out of range/failing PCM relay. All parts in hand and/or on order. We'll see what happens tomorrow...

 

[blackjack07]

Well that didn't work. And now the car won't start. I get "Check Charging System" alert and a "Low Fuel Level" alert.

Edit: Multi meter testing reveals a bad PCM relay diode, a bad PCM relay fuse and what may be an out of range/failing PCM relay. All parts in hand and/or on order. We'll see what happens tomorrow...

Update: swapped in new parts, cleared the alerts, pump spooled up, car started up opened the recirc tank to check flow aaaand, no circulation. Ran the OBD scan and all codes clear. Shut the car off and let it sit for 10 minutes and turned the key back to on and no pump spool up. We take it in Monday to test/replace the IC pump.

 

[Pentalab]

Those Bosch IC pumps are aprx $150.00 brand new. You can buy em anywhere. Test any new one with 12 vdc, before u install it.

 

[blackjack07]

Those Bosch IC pumps are aprx $150.00 brand new. You can buy em anywhere. Test any new one with 12 vdc, before u install it.

Thanks Pentalab, I have a new M8501 GT500 pump en route from AM ($136) now. A general fyi, I also ran a new OBD scan and had a P1000 error code (PCM test incomplete) so I checked all the fuses (fine) and swapped out the PCM relay a second time and bingo, IC pump is now circulating. No CEL, no error codes and the car is running fine. Critical tip for anyone still interested: be sure to check the 5A fuse #19 in the passenger kick panel box for any peculiarities with power gremlins. This is the PCM relays fuse. If I wasn't tipped to look for it and check I would still be chasing my tail.

 

[tbrock]

For what its worth put the GT500 pump on. Its a much better unit with a lot more flow which will lower your IAT's. I run that pump with a Steeda Triple pass HE and the combo keeps my IAT's in check.

 

[blackjack07]

Hey tbrock, yep that's the plan. Thanks also for confirming the hopes for the coolant flow. The bay has always seemed way too warm for me anyway and while we have it up in the air I'm going to redirect the left front brake air cooler tube to the air dam/box at the filter to try to lower the IAT's even more. I'm just pulling in under hood air basically.

 

[blackjack07]

Update: Got the new pump and once we got the car up in the air, we discovered that the connector on the old intercooler pump was damaged, probably from a curb stop/speed bump/rumble strip. For any Saleen Series VI SC owners that aren't aware of the install conditions, please see the pic below of the new pump install and the relation to bumper clearance. This location is precisely as described in the Series VI SC install instructions. The view shown is looking frontward with the rear of the car behind the photog. As you can see the new connector is actually below the plane of the front bumper cover and very easily susceptible to damage. Track efforts with a lowered vehicle, as this car is, can translate into a sheared connector or damaged pump pretty easily. Our tech foisted the new pump upward in the install bracket as far as possible but only gained about 1/4 inch at best. If you believe you are running high SC coolant temps, this place may be a good place to look first.

 

[DiMora]

If you want to go epic, install a Stewart EMP pump and 1" lines along with a degas bottle partial bypass. There are numerous threads on the topic.

 

[blackjack07]

If you want to go epic, install a Stewart EMP pump and 1" lines along with a degas bottle partial bypass. There are numerous threads on the topic.

Thanks DiMora but "true to build" is more important to me and the honor to the legacy of the builder than going epic. I know, I could've moved the pump and the size of the HE and the hoses and all that but this is still a Joe Gosinski build and true to the Saleen design intent. We're keeping it that way out of deference to all of them. Best regards, really.