Setting up adjustable panhard with wheels that stick out from fender

[EGNARO]

How do you guys do it.

I had no issue using a plumbob when the narrow ones were on there but my new wheels poke out of the fender.

Any recommendations?

I'm readjusting it since I got rear ended pretty hard a while back

 

[skwerl]

Use/hold a spacer against the fender under your string/plumbob.

 

[EGNARO]

 

[EGNARO]

Or maybe I'm just an idiot

 

[Premium08]

Straight edge from the bottom to top of tire

sent from the staging lanes

 

[DRock]

Get wheels that fit?

Lol sorry i had to

 

[Sky Render]

I'm not entirely sure I understand the question. You adjust the panhard bar the same way regardless of wheel width, so what's the problem?

 

[Norm Peterson]

I think you first have to find out if you're re-adjusting it because the axle was pushed laterally or if it's the bodywork that's now "off".

If it's the body that's off and you correct a good axle location to suit that, the car will dog-track. That's just one scenario.



I can understand tires/wheels that stick out past the sheetmetal on a serious autocross car or track toy while they're being driven in those situations. But not on a street-driven car (hint: it doesn't look very smart to anybody who actually knows about such things).

Be that as it may, you might want to add a budget line-item for fixing stone chips.


Norm

 

[EGNARO]

Basically what I'm asking is a way to get this set correctly for the car. I hadn't considered the body being slightly off.

It's not sticking out a ton but that's what the RTRs do on a s197.1


When I initially set it up the "how to" told me to run a line down from the body and measure distance from line to tire. And equal it out for both sides.

I'm trying to find a way to do this when a line from the body will hit rubber..
Could I measure from inside of tire to something under the car possibly?

 

[trakhoar]

Use the spacer as mentioned. IE tape something flat to the fender you push your verticle reference further out. Hang your plumb bob from there.

 

[jymontoya]

Looks close enough to me.

If it drives fine, who cares?

 

[Norm Peterson]

I think if you're into appearance more than performance, it's a wart that you can't stop thinking about until it's corrected.


Norm

 

[EGNARO]

I think if you're into appearance more than performance, it's a wart that you can't stop thinking about until it's corrected.


Norm

I'm more into the handling,
It feels a bit off, which is why I'm concerned

 

[Norm Peterson]

In that case, you may be in for a few rounds of "trial and error", where you accept the possibility of adjusting the axle whatever amount (and whichever way!) that makes it work best.

Regardless of how it ends up looking.

You can still start by pulling the axle back to where it looks better centered under the body, but don't agonize over getting it "perfectly centered" the first time because it may not end up there when you're done.

You might then check the wheelbases on both sides to see if they're the same. If they aren't, adjustable-length LCAs can fix this, albeit at a small loss in right vs left suspension geometric symmetry.


Norm

 

[NickJones07GT]

I cut a 2x4 down so that it sits on the outside of the wheel without touching the tire. Then I check the angle of the tire with a digital level on the 2x4. I add tape to either top or bottom of the wheel (usually top) until the board is vertical. I then use a straight edge, protruding past the wheel well, to allow me to measure to the fender. I then se the two measurements equal. The problem is this only works really well if you check it before lowering it as I just set them back to what they were before. As Norm said the fenders might not be perfectly aligned. But this should get you close.

 

[jymontoya]

I'm more into the handling,
It feels a bit off, which is why I'm concerned

Panhard bars often feel a touch different from one side to another while under heavy cornering. A watts link does not.