Sheared off shifter bushing bolt and tune question

[Drkmrkiv]

While installing my hurst shifter, I sheared off one of the two bolts under the car that holds the bracket and bushing to the tail end of the remote shifter. What gives? Torqued it to specs, but whatever. I messed up.
What can I do? The other bolt is secure and doesn't seem to move. What are my options?

Also, have a Lund tune for a Boss manifold, L/T's, and CAI (designed for boss manifold).

I still haven't received the manifold yet, but can I run the CAI and tune? At least temporarily? I want to knock out the header install over the weekend.

 

[Scott_0]

the studs are pressed in I believe, youll have to remove the console and find where the studs are located, if Im not mistaken, I remember reading the studs cannot be seen with the console removed, youll have to fish around and find them. youre not the first with this issue, do a google search and youll find the info you need .

 

[nyuk98GT]

Drkmrkiv:

Maybe this link will help?

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78582&highlight=stud

I get the feeling that the torque spec for these things must be wrong.

Chris

 

[Drkmrkiv]

Thanks Chris. I might just JB Weld it.

 

[fdjizm]

I made those things a little more than hand tight with lock tite when I installed my shifter, that was 3 years ago hasn't moved.

 

[5lho]

It's a 10mm stud. Shouldn't have more than 15 lb/ft on it, based on size alone. Don't fuck about with JB. Pull the console and carpet back and replace the stud. The forces going through that thing will snap off a JB like nothing and you won't be able to get the bracket to sit flat easily with goober all over the stud.

Hint for the future from a turbo rebuilder and general old-car fixer: TIGHTEN every nut and bolt a touch before you wind it off. 99 times out of 100, even on really stuck ones, that'll let them go without snapping.

 

[clinton2003]

call me old fashioned, but on just about everything I go with good old fashion German torque spec. Goo-den-tite

 

[5lho]

That's definitely the problem he had, right there...You don't need a torque wrench IF you've torqued in 40,000 10 mm bolts like I probably have in 30+ years of doing this. You kinda know what 15 lbs/ft feels like on your own socket wrenches.

 

[frank s]

I have read that the length of a box-end wrench applies a "normal"-strength hand's power at a point that results in approximately the correct torque for its size.

I infer that if you grab your ratchet at the same distance from the socket as the wrench's end is from its box, you'll be in the right neighborhood.

I haven't tested this scientifically, but it sounds good.