Shooting for 11s N/A

[Blackbird1084]

It'll free up rolling resistance from the lower air pressure but it would be very hard to see a large gain from that. Is your front end raising up very much during those runs?

 

[conexion914]

The front end definitely raises up. I don't pull the wheels off the ground obviously, but even in daily driving situations with the sway bar/radiator support brace and the softer rear springs the front end comes up very easily and is noticeable. I'll see if I can find anything recent, if not I'm going out tomorrow and I'll get a video of a pass.

 

[TheDarkPath]

Nitto's are only good for mid-low 1.7's basing that off of my experience with them in my TA. I had 245/50/16 nitto 555r's with a 3500 lock up stall, 3.73's, and a race weight of 3650 when I first started cutting 1.7's. Then after an engine rebuild (basic rebuild), h/c/i combo, 275/50/15 mt et streets (nitto's would no longer hold on for anything better than a 1.75 60ft), a 4200 non lock up stall, and race weight of 3595 I was cutting a best of 1.567 with a 1.59 avg 60'. My advice is to leave the nitto's on for the street and use the mt's at the track. Oh and I never went lower than 18 psi in my mt's it did no good. I hope you post some n/a 11's soon as that would be great to see in a bolt-on auto. And btw you are one skinny sob! I haven't weighed 135 since I was 14 lmao.

When you were cutting 1.7s on the Nittos, was there anything being left on the table due to traction issues? I could definitely understand traction being a problem with the Nittos after H/C/I and the new stall. I'm going to drive the car out to the track Friday on the Nittos and may do a shake down run before swapping (just to see how they hook so I have apples-to-apples comparison versus my last time out). Great advice on the air pressure for the MT's. I wasn't sure where to put them at. I'm going to give it my best if I can get out there Friday (weather forecast is changing daily). With the stall, it feels like a whole new car under WOT from a dig. And yeah, I'm a bit skinny but make for a great driver!! I cut 50-100 lbs out of most cars haha.

 

[Blackbird1084]

Before the motor rebuild no. It was putting all available power to the ground and for a motor that had 155000 on it at the time it ran great. It's best 60ft on nitto's was before the h/c/i and it was a 1.71.

 

[TheDarkPath]

Before the motor rebuild no. It was putting all available power to the ground and for a motor that had 155000 on it at the time it ran great. It's best 60ft on nitto's was before the h/c/i and it was a 1.71.

That's a pretty solid 60' time for those tires. My best so far is only a 1.84 so anything in the mid-1.7s would be incredible.

 

[Blackbird1084]

The key to nitto's is they HAVE TO BE very hot in order to hook. How long of a burnout do you do? Do you stop when you see a little smoke or do you go longer? I used to run mine up too 75-80mph in second and keep it there till there was smoke up by the door (I could also hear them start to squel a little). People joked at me for doing "John force" style burnouts lol. But it worked and very well. The mt's don't require as long of a burnout but they still like to be hot.

 

[TheDarkPath]

The key to nitto's is they HAVE TO BE very hot in order to hook. How long of a burnout do you do? Do you stop when you see a little smoke or do you go longer? I used to run mine up too 75-80mph in second and keep it there till there was smoke up by the door (I could also hear them start to squel a little). People joked at me for doing "John force" style burnouts lol. But it worked and very well. The mt's don't require as long of a burnout but they still like to be hot.

You hit it on the head with the Nittos. I went to the track last night and they were mostly useless. My first pass, I didn't get a good burnout because there was only enough water in the water box for 1 of my tires (I didn't see this but that's what a few of my friends told me and when they asked the guy with the hose to put down more water, he just looked at them blankly and walked away). At any rate, I put down a 1.79 60' leaving around 2500 RPM and only ran a 12.47.

Second pass on the Nittos (wanted to try again in water this time), I got a good long smokey burnout. I spun a good deal in first (left at 3000 RPM) and spun into 2nd. Still clicked off a 1.74 60' and a 12.44.

On to the MT ET Streets (bias ply). I launched around 2900 RPM and netted me a 1.71 60' and 12.38 (1/8 was 7.86 if I remember right). I tried leaving from idle and just punching it next like a few had suggested to me and that didn't do much. I had a 1.86 60'. There was a lull when I first launched that way but then it accelerated HARD.

I hot-lapped it 3 times as the track was clearing out and about to close and I hadn't gotten many passes in. Mainly, I was there for testing launch methods. My last pass with a hot car, I smoked up the MTs and launched at 3000 RPM (I may be able to go higher but I started hearing suspension creaking so it was all loaded up and ready). Clicked off a 1.68 60' but being hot, only ran a 12.411. Hot-lapping the car has been known to cost me a few 1/10s but last night was all about 60' and launch testing.

Overall, I'm happy with how the car ran and launched. In comparing time slips milestone for milestone and time/mph differences, I really think the 1 piece driveshaft is costing me in the long run (on the big end). I improved my 60' time by 1.6 tenths but only improved my ET by 1 tenth and no change to MPH or lost some there actually. The last time I had the driveshaft on the car (before the adjustable UCA), I added 4.10s, DRs, and the driveshaft and went to the track. The car had a MUCH better 60' time and 1/8th mile time but fell on its face on the big end and I ended up running the same as I had before in total ET due to big losses from the 1/8 to the 1/4 in time and mph. Car was running slower on the top end than before starting seemingly right before the 1/8th mile. When I went back to the stock driveshaft and returned to the track, I improved by several tenths.

My plan is to go back to the stock driveshaft. I'm not even going to question the dyno tune until I get back out with the stock driveshaft and get some numbers. I still do think there are 12.1s in this car once I get some more practice and have time to test/tune.

BTW: With me in the car, race weight was 3430lbs. Not too shabby.

 

[ArtQ]

Why do you think the lighter drive shaft is slowing you down?

 

[TheDarkPath]

Why do you think the lighter drive shaft is slowing you down?

Vibration. Past that, I don't know why I would lose time/speed past the 1/8 when the tune netted me more midrange and top-end power and torque. The last time I experienced this similar situation, I had the ds on. If I were rich/sponsored, I'd try a few different shafts to rule it out but i'm not.

I'm open to suggestions as I well. I'm going to be doing some maintenance on the car soon. Also going to talk to the shop that did the converter install/tune to see if they have anything for me.

 

[ArtQ]

Have you checked pinion angle?

 

[TheDarkPath]

Have you checked pinion angle?

Yes, it's set for a lowered car with 1 pc ds. Don't remember what exactly now but the vibration did lessen...just not at higher speeds.

 

[ArtQ]

I would check it to see what it is. Maybe take the DS to someone that can check the balance on it as well.

 

[rojizostang]

drive shaft vibe can be a pain in the butt. if you can pick up one of the new dss driveshafts that has a cv joint at the rear, you can eliminate that part of the equation. they're a little pricey, but worth it. fwiw, a serious drive shaft vibe is more than just a nuisance. it broke the tail shaft housing on my transmission. that's when i quit fooling around with the ranger style drive shafts and bit the bullet and went for a proven winner. no pinion angle worries either.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...-3-1-2o-aluminum-1330-has-no-clearance-issues

 

[Blackbird1084]

Your drive shaft isn't slowing you down. What gear are you going through the traps in? Also I'd switch from the bias ply mt's to the actual radial. Auto's get a boost from the stiffer sidewall of the radial. I'd advise against any bias ply for an auto unless they are making huge amounts of power (800+rwhp). The reason I asked about what gear your in is because you might not be shifting high enough in the first two gears to help it climb in third. When I first put my 355 in my TA I let it shift it's self at 6500 rpm. The result was a piss poor 12.70@108. After thinking about it for a bit I decided to shift it my self higher up. Knowing my rev limiter was set at 7k I slowly went from 6500 to eventually shifting at 7000. I ended that night running 12.24@111. That might be something you could experiment with. Also on the nitto's don't do a burnout in the water go around it. Also before you do your burnout or stage put it in reverse and goose it hard. Not enough to squel the tires. That'll help keep posi during both the burnout and the launch. You should be cutting lower 1.7's on the nitto's. Now the bias ply's won't get much better if at all because of how they'll wrinkle. Auto's lose time when the tires wrinkle up. Sticks almost have to have bias plys to absorb all of the instant shock a 5spd delivers. Auto's don't have that problem since they can preload the suspension and tires.

 

[Blackbird1084]

Also when stalling your car up if your not having traction problems on the tires your using go ahead and stall it up as high as it will go to gain maximum advantage of the converter.

 

[TheDarkPath]

Rojizostang - I'll definitely look into the DSS DS. I'm at the point now where I'm done fooling with this DS as well.

Blackbird: I'm going through the traps in 4th at around 5800 RPM. My redline is set to 6000. I checked the dyno graph and though torque is plumeting up top, power is good and steady until around 5800 RPM where it starts to very finely taper off. I could possibly raise the shift points to go at 6200. At the 3000/3100 RPM range, the suspension starts to creak a little which is typically right before I start getting pushed a bit and my best 60' camen when I launched at 3000 or just above.

As far as the burnouts, after the 1st issue I had, I didn't have any other issues with even burnouts the rest of the night. Both tires heated evenly (I had friends behind me taking video). I didn't experiment too much with the Nittos. After the 2nd pass (I did a long and hugely smokey burnout on the Nittos), they couldn't hook launching at 3000. On the MT's, I'm quite happy with a 1.68 60'. They dead hooked launching at a touch over 3000 RPM with no bog or spin...perfect! Is the time loss you're speaking of with regard to the 60' or 1/4 ET? I can definitely see where the tires wrinkled but a 1.68 60' is a lot better than I expected out of this setup my first time out with the converter. I know there's room for improvement.

 

[Blackbird1084]

The time lose is overall. You won't get as good of a 60' as you could and your et's will reflect that. Try raising your redline to 6500 and set your shift points at 6300. Since the nitto's are giving up at 3k you deffinetly need a different tire. But like I said the radials will do you more good than the bias plys. As I said before all I changed was tires and went from 1.7's to bottom 1.6's ( I upped the stall to get 1.5's).

 

[Chilliwack 42]

I'd shift above 6,000. Even if your dyno graph shows you're falling off above 5,800, when you shift to a higher gear the drop in rpm could be putting you into a range where you're making even less power.

 

[qwikhuh]

Glad to see some guys still gunning for the 11s with the 05-10 cars!! Like Art and others mentioned its all in the first 60 feet and the sticks usually have the advantage there at this power level. I had my best results with 6000 rpm launches and the slightest clutch slip possible. I had a blast with my 05 and can't wait for my 13 to show up!

 

[TheDarkPath]

I'd shift above 6,000. Even if your dyno graph shows you're falling off above 5,800, when you shift to a higher gear the drop in rpm could be putting you into a range where you're making even less power.

That's a good point in the shift points and where the RPMs drop to after the shift. I didn't think about that.