Shooting for 11s N/A

[BigRis]

I am hoping with my planned mods and some LCAs I can get into the mid 12's. Than with cams, stall conv. and some driver weight reduction ,driver mods lol along with some DRs I would hope to get close to very low 12's and look to eek into the 11s. Might not make it but it will be a number to shoot for.

 

[Mike K]

You should be in the 12's easy with those mods.

 

[kbchevlvr]

I am hoping with my planned mods and some LCAs I can get into the mid 12's. Than with cams, stall conv. and some driver weight reduction ,driver mods lol along with some DRs I would hope to get close to very low 12's and look to eek into the 11s. Might not make it but it will be a number to shoot for.

you are going to need the convertor to get into the 12's... and im fairly certain, a brenspeed tune wont do it either. i could be wrong about brenspeed, but it did NOT work for me.

im not suggesting that you have done this...but dont buy into the 2 tenths for this, or 3 tenths for that gimmick. it will leave you chasing your tail. heck if i bought everything based on that, id be running 3's....lol.

if you want to run mid 12's. look at my posted list in this thread. is there other ways to do it? sure is. do i believe my way is the most cost effective? yes i do.

PM me if you want to chat about it. i will give you everybit of info i have learned.

 

[conexion914]

you are going to need the convertor to get into the 12's... and im fairly certain, a brenspeed tune wont do it either. i could be wrong about brenspeed, but it did NOT work for me.

im not suggesting that you have done this...but dont buy into the 2 tenths for this, or 3 tenths for that gimmick. it will leave you chasing your tail. heck if i bought everything based on that, id be running 3's....lol.

if you want to run mid 12's. look at my posted list in this thread. is there other ways to do it? sure is. do i believe my way is the most cost effective? yes i do.

PM me if you want to chat about it. i will give you everybit of info i have learned.

My car went a best of [email protected] with the stock converter.

Mods I had at the time were Steeda CAI, BAMA 93 Race Tune, O/R X pipe, 4.10s, MT Et Streets. The DA was -21 feet down here in South Florida. The car ran several 12.9x passes that night.

Would it be able to do that on the stock converter without the great air? Absolutely not.

I'm just now getting to run 12.9x in 800+ DA and I have a 3500 PTC Converter and a few other things added.

Running 12's is a good feeling, but now I just want to get deeper and deeper into them.

 

[Davenow]

Yeah loads of guys are running 12s on the stock converter, so it can definitely be done.



That said, man... If you can do a converter, DO ONE. I plan on it but its gonna be a while. I am doing a driveshaft and supercharger first.

 

[rojizostang]

if you're going to do a driveshaft, i recommend getting one from dss. get one that has a ujoint in the front and a cv joint in the rear. they cost a little more, but you won't have any problems.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...-3-1-2o-aluminum-1330-has-no-clearance-issues

 

[TheDarkPath]

you are going to need the convertor to get into the 12's... and im fairly certain, a brenspeed tune wont do it either. i could be wrong about brenspeed, but it did NOT work for me.

im not suggesting that you have done this...but dont buy into the 2 tenths for this, or 3 tenths for that gimmick. it will leave you chasing your tail. heck if i bought everything based on that, id be running 3's....lol.

if you want to run mid 12's. look at my posted list in this thread. is there other ways to do it? sure is. do i believe my way is the most cost effective? yes i do.

PM me if you want to chat about it. i will give you everybit of info i have learned.

I ran 12.49 before the driveshaft, before the off-road H, and on the stock converter. O/R H has been off/on randomly throughout many of my trips to the track. I haven't been back since the converter but the thought that a converter is needed for 12s is a joke.

I ran 12.95 with LCAs, C&L/93 tune, UDP, tubular radiator support/sway bar delete, off-road H, and street tires. Ran 12.61 after I added 4.10 gears and DRs.

I'm not saying EVERYONE will see these results with my mods but it clearly is not impossible. I ran the 12.95 on a Bamachips 93 octane race tune but also ran a 12.98 the same day on my Brenspeed 93 octane tune.

 

[OU81]

Mid 12's here on stock converter & typical bolt ons on street tires.

 

[kbchevlvr]

im not trying to start a bitch fest...... mid 12's on a stock convertor with just simple bolt ons? sorry, ive been to plenty of tracks, and have dealt with both Bama and Brenspeed. Neither of them could do what was needed. NOT EVEN CLOSE.

again, being at the tracks (and to not just 1, once a year like most) monthly and all different ones at that. ive seen a huge variences in my wifes car. i travel with 3 cars when i go (carberated Chevy's...lol) and this car moves the most in ET in relationship to air quality/weather. After working with BBR, things got way better, especially when we leaned it up 2% accross the boards....it got a little more consistant (we bracket/index race the car), but more importantly it became predictable.

but whatever, my point is. ive compared notes with alot of different racers with these cars.... from stockers, to ones with similar mods, to guys with a little more. honestly, of everyone i have came accross. my wifes car almost always had them covered in ET and MPH that day. actually, none had a faster automatic car, and she beat most stick shift cars. sure they can show me that one great timeslip when they hit everything just right.....or like mentioned above, they found themselves in a perfect storm with -021 DA. but apples to apples....same day at the track, very very few N/A cars have got around hers. The one car that sticks out in my mind the most, is with the guy that had almost exactly the same engine mods as us. with exception of he DID NOT have headers on the car. we both had 4.10's. the major difference he had on his car was a TH-400 conversion. with that, in the hot/sticky 3000 DA air the car would run 12.teens when we would be in the good air (800ish DA) he could get into the 11's. that conversion quickly became a TO DO item for me....but its a project that compromises the cars ability to be driven like alot of you like to drive them (highways and such). so, untill her trans breaks... im gonna keep using it.

i hate sounding like i think im a know it all....im far from it. and i defeinently learn alot from reading what is posted hear on this board. but i find it hard to believe that some of you guys had my wifes car covered by almost a second with the mods mentioned that they have/had. with a 4.10 gear, CAI and TUNE (had both brenspeed and bama), off road X, 15" jegstars and 275/50-15 mt drag radials. the car went a best of 13.40's with either tune and same day testing. prior to that, bone stock not one single modification and on the stock fan blades and tires...the car went 14.20's.

my hats off to you guys doing what her car couldnt do..... i want to stop short of calling bullshit, but my experience makes me know better. there is always someone out there with a better edge.

 

[fdjizm]

It's ok wanting to call bullshit, I've wanted to a few times but once I did the math it worked out.
There are things you just don't know, like race weight, hell the drive could be 110lbs and that may be the ET difference you just don't know.

I'm 225 lbs I'm sure if a little jockey gets in my car and drives the hell out of it he will run some pretty impressive times, nothing is impossible

 

[ford20]

This thread got slower .... Went from running 11s to running 12s

 

[conexion914]

you are going to need the convertor to get into the 12's... and im fairly certain, a brenspeed tune wont do it either. i could be wrong about brenspeed, but it did NOT work for me.

im not suggesting that you have done this...but dont buy into the 2 tenths for this, or 3 tenths for that gimmick. it will leave you chasing your tail. heck if i bought everything based on that, id be running 3's....lol.

if you want to run mid 12's. look at my posted list in this thread. is there other ways to do it? sure is. do i believe my way is the most cost effective? yes i do.

PM me if you want to chat about it. i will give you everybit of info i have learned.

im not trying to start a bitch fest...... mid 12's on a stock convertor with just simple bolt ons? sorry, ive been to plenty of tracks, and have dealt with both Bama and Brenspeed. Neither of them could do what was needed. NOT EVEN CLOSE.

again, being at the tracks (and to not just 1, once a year like most) monthly and all different ones at that. ive seen a huge variences in my wifes car. i travel with 3 cars when i go (carberated Chevy's...lol) and this car moves the most in ET in relationship to air quality/weather. After working with BBR, things got way better, especially when we leaned it up 2% accross the boards....it got a little more consistant (we bracket/index race the car), but more importantly it became predictable.

but whatever, my point is. ive compared notes with alot of different racers with these cars.... from stockers, to ones with similar mods, to guys with a little more. honestly, of everyone i have came accross. my wifes car almost always had them covered in ET and MPH that day. actually, none had a faster automatic car, and she beat most stick shift cars. sure they can show me that one great timeslip when they hit everything just right.....or like mentioned above, they found themselves in a perfect storm with -021 DA. but apples to apples....same day at the track, very very few N/A cars have got around hers. The one car that sticks out in my mind the most, is with the guy that had almost exactly the same engine mods as us. with exception of he DID NOT have headers on the car. we both had 4.10's. the major difference he had on his car was a TH-400 conversion. with that, in the hot/sticky 3000 DA air the car would run 12.teens when we would be in the good air (800ish DA) he could get into the 11's. that conversion quickly became a TO DO item for me....but its a project that compromises the cars ability to be driven like alot of you like to drive them (highways and such). so, untill her trans breaks... im gonna keep using it.

i hate sounding like i think im a know it all....im far from it. and i defeinently learn alot from reading what is posted hear on this board. but i find it hard to believe that some of you guys had my wifes car covered by almost a second with the mods mentioned that they have/had. with a 4.10 gear, CAI and TUNE (had both brenspeed and bama), off road X, 15" jegstars and 275/50-15 mt drag radials. the car went a best of 13.40's with either tune and same day testing. prior to that, bone stock not one single modification and on the stock fan blades and tires...the car went 14.20's.

my hats off to you guys doing what her car couldnt do..... i want to stop short of calling bullshit, but my experience makes me know better. there is always someone out there with a better edge.

You got my attention at bracket racing. Not to hijack the thread, but what things have you found make the car more consistent in the 1/4? My car is just fine in the 1/8, but I'd be open to any suggestions as I bracket race and can't stand the unpredictable nature of the 1/4 ET.

 

[Blackbird1084]

Sticky tires and a solid suspension are key to consistent et's. My TA varied no more than .05 in all 10 elimination rounds of the last shootout I was at.

 

[Mike K]

Kbchevlvr: What was the da? How was it hooking?
Those two things could be why you are so skeptical on the mid 12's that the op wants

 

[conexion914]

Sticky tires and a solid suspension are key to consistent et's. My TA varied no more than .05 in all 10 elimination rounds of the last shootout I was at.

I can cut consistent 60' times, but where my car is off is the 1000' and 1/4 ET.

I run 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials, have UPR LCA, Cobra Jet springs in the rear, TrueTrac, 3500 PTC Converter, UPR Sway Bar delete. I don't spin off the line and the list time I was out 3 of 4 passes were 1.80x 60' times.

My 1/8 mile is great. Last time out went like this..

Pass 1: 8.221
Pass 2: 8.212
Pass 3: 8.205
Pass 4: 8.191

I need the 1/4 mile ET to be that spot on.

 

[kbchevlvr]

It's ok wanting to call bullshit, I've wanted to a few times but once I did the math it worked out.
There are things you just don't know, like race weight, hell the drive could be 110lbs and that may be the ET difference you just don't know.

I'm 225 lbs I'm sure if a little jockey gets in my car and drives the hell out of it he will run some pretty impressive times, nothing is impossible

with her car, placing 8lbs in the trunk slows it down .01. even though my wife only was 120lbs....even considering the weight of a 100 lbs heavier driver it will only slow up a little over a tenth. so , those 13.40's are now .30's. at the time i had not removed the the speakers and amps out of the trunk, or even the spare tire. so whats that, another 100lbs? so now we are into the .20's. the DA that day was 1500-1800. even on the best to worst weather conditions the car doesnt move more then .30.

ive done the math, like i said i take 3 cars with me to the track when i go. everyone of them i can dial in within .02 in the hottest or coldest weather without even taking a time shot.

even if doing the math and adjusting on paper the et's. the best i see is a 13.20. guys here are claiming mid 12's. thats 7 tenths they have on her....even if they were being timed falling off of a cliff....i cant see it.

like i said my info is based off of on track experience. and not just 1 day a year at 1 track. we race april to november. from epping nh to virginia motorsports park.......and almost all of them in between. im not exaggerating one bit...literally there has not been one n/a car that has got around her, with the same or similar mods. if someone mentioned a 12.90/13.00....thats believable. but 12.50's?

all things considered.....in order for her car to be running the 12.40's to 12.60's (thats the range currently depending on weather)....the mods are more extensive. since those 13.40's i have made many changes. initially i installed a 3000 PTC convertor....that netted me absolutly nothing in performance. after fighting that, i ended up swapping it out for a tci 3000. that put the car into the 13.00 range. but other mods after that have been. patriot 1 5/8 full length headers, cmdp's, gt-500 throttle body, steeda u/d pullies, spyder shaft aluminum driveshaft and swapping the tune responsibility to BBR. i have removed all of the trunk weight, and installed a granitelli tubular rad support/sway bar delete. it took all of those mods to see mid 12's.

 

[kbchevlvr]

I can cut consistent 60' times, but where my car is off is the 1000' and 1/4 ET.

I run 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials, have UPR LCA, Cobra Jet springs in the rear, TrueTrac, 3500 PTC Converter, UPR Sway Bar delete. I don't spin off the line and the list time I was out 3 of 4 passes were 1.80x 60' times.

My 1/8 mile is great. Last time out went like this..

Pass 1: 8.221
Pass 2: 8.212
Pass 3: 8.205
Pass 4: 8.191

I need the 1/4 mile ET to be that spot on.

top end shouldnt move much unless the weather is changing rapidly, or direction of wind changes. if you remember those two variables......i would be skeptical of that convertor. when i had a PTC in the car, it literally acted no different than stock. i could flash it a little more like 3000-3100. but it never netter me any et gain. i dont think it could take the aggressive lock up that BBR put into it. when i switched to a TCI...the car picked up in 60' and in mph. you can literally feel the convertor lock up, it feels like another gear....then the mph starts pouring on. so, i hate to suggest something harsh, but if you have ruled out track/weather. if it were my car...i would start there.

 

[kbchevlvr]

Kbchevlvr: What was the da? How was it hooking?
Those two things could be why you are so skeptical on the mid 12's that the op wants

1500-1800 and dead hooked on the mt drag radials

 

[GERMANSHEPERD]

This thread got slower .... Went from running 11s to running 12s

Thought I was the only one who noticed that.

 

[OU81]

with her car, placing 8lbs in the trunk slows it down .01. even though my wife only was 120lbs....even considering the weight of a 100 lbs heavier driver it will only slow up a little over a tenth. so , those 13.40's are now .30's. at the time i had not removed the the speakers and amps out of the trunk, or even the spare tire. so whats that, another 100lbs? so now we are into the .20's. the DA that day was 1500-1800. even on the best to worst weather conditions the car doesnt move more then .30.

ive done the math, like i said i take 3 cars with me to the track when i go. everyone of them i can dial in within .02 in the hottest or coldest weather without even taking a time shot.

even if doing the math and adjusting on paper the et's. the best i see is a 13.20. guys here are claiming mid 12's. thats 7 tenths they have on her....even if they were being timed falling off of a cliff....i cant see it.

like i said my info is based off of on track experience. and not just 1 day a year at 1 track. we race april to november. from epping nh to virginia motorsports park.......and almost all of them in between. im notexaggerating one bit...literally there has not been one n/a car that has got around her, with the same or similar mods. if someone mentioned a 12.90/13.00....thats believable. but 12.50's?

all things considered.....in order for her car to be running the 12.40's to 12.60's (thats the range currently depending on weather)....the mods are more extensive. since those 13.40's i have made many changes. initially i installed a 3000 PTC convertor....that netted me absolutly nothing in performance. after fighting that, i ended up swapping it out for a tci 3000. that put the car into the 13.00 range. but other mods after that have been. patriot 1 5/8 full length headers, cmdp's, gt-500 throttle body, steeda u/d pullies, spyder shaft aluminum driveshaft and swapping the tune responsibility to BBR. i have removed all of the trunk weight, and installed a granitelli tubular rad support/sway bar delete. it took all of those mods to see mid 12's.

Whats your track elevation and weight? Like said that is a huge factor. For example the tracks i race at are 60 ft & 15 ft above sea level. I weight 140 lbs...i know i know, trying my damnedest to gain weight, just not happening. The da during the winter here normally dips in the negatives most nights. I mainly go out from october to march. Sometimes i go in the summer when work isnt too crazy. 1 of said tracks hooks up extremely great & i can hook street tires no problem.

My mods are:
JMS tune
o/r x(stock manifolds) & stingers
Delete plates
4.10's
Ud pulleys
Intake
Bmr lca's & relocations
Bmr sway delete/rad. support.

No more...no less. All on street tires on a 18x9/10 set up.

But yea this topic sure did slow down a full second. Lol

Hell a local buddy/forum member went 12.0-12.1's w/ same mods BUT the w/ lt's, tc & dr's. Look him up, name is confuzed. I along w/ a few others on this forum has seen the car run, knows the exact mods of it & backs the car's times.

Elevation, da & weight my friend. The da gets in the + 2000-3000 range in the summer but i dont even bother for the most part b/w that being my busy time of yr w/ work & the heat in
general