Shooting for 11s N/A

[GERMANSHEPERD]

id test and shift between 62-6400

 

[46Tbird]

Optimum would be to shift and have the revs fall to your torque peak in the next gear. There are some online RPM/speed calculators with your tire height and rear ratio that might help you determine what your best shift points will be. It definitely makes a difference.

 

[DSargent09]

Where are some local car meets? I'm from the Pasadena area

 

[BigRis]

(2010Gt Auto) Ok , I talked about getting into 12s but this thread is getting into the 11s. With that being said here is my list of mods I will have done very soon....JLT CAI, UDPs ,CMDPs , 4.10s , Pypes LTs ,O/R h-pipe, HF cats ,MACs axle backs and 93 oct tune. With some tires and LCAs i am thinking 12s with this set up. Where would you guys go next? I was thinking DR cams and a alum driveshaft. But thats is far as I have planned. I want to stay N/A , no nitrous, and keep street manners. Is this possible to get into the 11s while staying NA and keeping it street friendly. I was told I need a stall conv but to keep it street friendly I need a multiple disk conv. ??
I would probabley be happy with just going with what I have plus cams and a driveshaft (tires ,LCAs) but it is hard to stop this snowball once I started and I want to have a definate order of mods to do. Thanks for your help and input.

 

[Chilliwack 42]

I'm looking for suggestions for my next mods in my quest for 11's NA. Two years ago I ran a best ET of 12.45 and 60' of 1.656 with the below mods. I was launching at 4,000 RPM and shifting at 6,800.

JLT CAI II with Bamachips email 93 race tune, Comp Mutha Thumpr Cams, CMCV Delete Plate, Steeda Pulleys, BBK Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40 series, O/R X-Pipe, Coastline Driveshaft, 4.10 Gears, Truetrac Posi, Moser Axles, MSD Ford Launch Master, SLP Line Lock, Steeda Rad Support, Steeda Billet LCA's and Relocate Brackets, Koni Yellows, Eibach Drag Springs, 15" Bogarts all around, ET Fronts and ET Drags.

Last year I changed out the Steeda Rad Support for a BMR Rad Support and removed the front sway bar. I also installed a BMR K-Member, A-Arms and BBK LT Headers with an O/R X-Pipe.

I only managed to make it out for one race last year. I set my 2 step at 5,000 RPM and only made one pass at 12.5 before my clutch came apart on my second run. I have a feeling the clutch was probably slipping at the line when I made my first pass.

I parked it over winter for the first time and installed a Mach 500 with a billet steel flywheel. I plan on picking up a JLT 3 CAI pretty soon and a MGW shifter. I'm just trying to think of what else I can do to help make power. I was thinking maybe and electric water pump, a throttle body and possibly the JPC cast intake, but that will likely wait until next year unless my work opens the overtime wallet this summer. I don't want to do heads yet and I don't want to change the cams for something better quite yet. Would I benefit from 4.56 gears, I'm currently running a 26x15x11.5 ET Drag.

I'm sure with the new clutch and some more seat time I should get pretty close to 11's

 

[killr3v]

If you're going with 4.56 you're gonna need a taller tire. At least a 28" or you'll have to shift to 5th

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

 

[rojizostang]

If you're going with 4.56 you're gonna need a taller tire. At least a 28" or you'll have to shift to 5th

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

i run a 26" tall tire with a 4.56 gear. goes thru the traps about 6400.

 

[Sharad]

I'm looking for suggestions for my next mods in my quest for 11's NA. Two years ago I ran a best ET of 12.45 and 60' of 1.656 with the below mods. I was launching at 4,000 RPM and shifting at 6,800.

JLT CAI II with Bamachips email 93 race tune, Comp Mutha Thumpr Cams, CMCV Delete Plate, Steeda Pulleys, BBK Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40 series, O/R X-Pipe, Coastline Driveshaft, 4.10 Gears, Truetrac Posi, Moser Axles, MSD Ford Launch Master, SLP Line Lock, Steeda Rad Support, Steeda Billet LCA's and Relocate Brackets, Koni Yellows, Eibach Drag Springs, 15" Bogarts all around, ET Fronts and ET Drags.

Last year I changed out the Steeda Rad Support for a BMR Rad Support and removed the front sway bar. I also installed a BMR K-Member, A-Arms and BBK LT Headers with an O/R X-Pipe.

I only managed to make it out for one race last year. I set my 2 step at 5,000 RPM and only made one pass at 12.5 before my clutch came apart on my second run. I have a feeling the clutch was probably slipping at the line when I made my first pass.

I parked it over winter for the first time and installed a Mach 500 with a billet steel flywheel. I plan on picking up a JLT 3 CAI pretty soon and a MGW shifter. I'm just trying to think of what else I can do to help make power. I was thinking maybe and electric water pump, a throttle body and possibly the JPC cast intake, but that will likely wait until next year unless my work opens the overtime wallet this summer. I don't want to do heads yet and I don't want to change the cams for something better quite yet. Would I benefit from 4.56 gears, I'm currently running a 26x15x11.5 ET Drag.

I'm sure with the new clutch and some more seat time I should get pretty close to 11's

You could certainly try a taller tire with a bigger gear. Also, I didn't see an upgraded upper control arm listed. For best 60s, I'd recommend this:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-05.html
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushings-05.html

 

[Chilliwack 42]

You could certainly try a taller tire with a bigger gear. Also, I didn't see an upgraded upper control arm listed. For best 60s, I'd recommend this:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-05.html
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushings-05.html

Ya sorry I do have a BMR Upper.

 

[2DaDarkZide PR]

This is also my goal. Strictly non DR or slicks. Well My goal is 12.0 but same idea. I am at 12.998 @ 107.72 MPH with a bogging 1.923 60. And my next step is Breenspeed's cams to see how close I get. Then from there add an intake manifold but still up against the fence on those. I just figure it would 'feed' the rest of my parts well.