Sky Render's Build Thread

sheizasosay

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BMR only makes bolt-in brackets. They could be welded, but I'd only trust a good chassis shop to do it. I've never had an issue with slipping or shifting of any bolt-in brackets. Look for a complete review and writeup of both the Corsa exhaust and the BMR control arms in a few weeks. :thumb:

I knew you had relo brackets before these new BMR parts because we were just having a discussion about how you like how "small" it makes your car feel. I just went back and looked. You had Whiteline relo brackets; not BMR brackets. So basically I thought you replaced old-style BMR brackets with new-style BMR brackets and was curious if you could eyeball the difference.

A while back, BMR made some relo brackets (I have them). They were recommended by BMR to be welded in. They (BMR) then came out with a revised bracket. They were supposed to be better and not require welding. There might be a point where welding them is required, but if you are going that fast, you are smart enough to do that regardless of recommendations (I would think).

I would wager that you swapped to BMR's over the Whitelines due simply to more holes for adjustment.
 

Pentalab

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BMR hasn't made their weld in brackets in a long time. Their new style brackets, with the 3 bolts holding em into place...are built like a tank. Drag racer's can't break em, with sticky tires and dropping the clutch @ 5 krpm...and 700 rwhp. You would never break one on a track car.

Still they could be welded. For extreme drag race use, I would weld em. Having the option of using the top (2") and middle (3") hole is well worth it. Other than hard core drag racer's, nobody uses the very bottom hole. ( 4" drop).
 

Sky Render

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The adjustability of the BMR brackets is a very nice feature. With the ride height I currently have, the upper hole makes the control arm approximately parallel to the ground for stock-like geometry. The middle hole is approximately where it was before, for what I feel is a good compromise of anti-squat and advantageous (in my opinion) roll-steer characteristics. I could use the bottom hole for increased anti-squat if I want to set up for a drag race.

Sent from my toilet using Tapatalk
 

Sky Render

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Here's a video of what the full Corsa "Xtreme" system sounds like. :beerdrink:



Also, Eaton TrueTrac + BMR Control Arms = super-hard launches, you know, for when you want to drag race occasionally. :crazy:
 

Sky Render

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Have to. I have three herniated discs in my neck. Driving a manual transmission can be downright painful, and that ignores that fact that sometimes I have no feeling in my right arm. I have had to sit out autocrosses before due to pain also. I'm fortunate that it's gotten much better this year.
 

sheizasosay

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Have to. I have three herniated discs in my neck. Driving a manual transmission can be downright painful, and that ignores that fact that sometimes I have no feeling in my right arm. I have had to sit out autocrosses before due to pain also. I'm fortunate that it's gotten much better this year.

Well that sucks.
 

tigerhonaker

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Here's a video of what the full Corsa "Xtreme" system sounds like. :beerdrink:



Also, Eaton TrueTrac + BMR Control Arms = super-hard launches, you know, for when you want to drag race occasionally. :crazy:

Very nice .......

Terry
 

2013DIBGT

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Just throwing this out there as a word of caution for people with Relo Brackets of any flavor and to offer another scenario where welding the brackets can save the day.

Be very careful of automatic car washes after they are installed. Don't ask me how I know, but I'll tell you anyway :dunce:

I USED to take my car to the local touch less joint near my house who always did a good job prior to installing my go fast parts. Did it ONCE afterwards, big mistake! Car must have been resting on the rollers the last
time I went and ended up bending the lower lip on the drivers side bracket where the lower mounting hole is located.

Luckily I am using the top hole on my Cortex Relo Brackets which are welded in place. I guess I lucked out as it didn't seem to effect their normal operation. I would consider the Cortex brackets pretty stout but with the weight of the car resting on them, not stout enough I suppose.

I'm pretty certain that if they weren't welded it would have been a different story and would have made an already bad day even worse.

Just some food for thought.
 

Pentalab

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Have to. I have three herniated discs in my neck. Driving a manual transmission can be downright painful, and that ignores that fact that sometimes I have no feeling in my right arm. I have had to sit out autocrosses before due to pain also. I'm fortunate that it's gotten much better this year.

My wife has arthritis, so no manual here. Watch out, the automatic tranny will puke out ATF all over the road when it gets hot. You also have NO dipstick on the auto tranny, so you have no clue as to how much ATF is sitting in there.

To solve all of this, I installed the JDM auto tranny catch can.... but mounted it on the wheel well, by the firewall....on the driver's side. No more ATF all over the road. I also installed the thick, aluminum ribbed auto tranny pan..sold by AM. It's triple the weight of the oem steel pan. The 05-10 version holds an extra 4 qts. The 11-14 version holds an extra 3 qts. Comes with a locking type dip stick..that comes up next to the battery, on the firewall. (which is the same place that JDM sez to mount the catch can). The new dipstick can only be mounted there...hence the catch can was relocated. No big deal, just more tubing used to the catch can. The tubing runs along the firewall.

The new pan has a drain plug on it as well. You can also top up /replace the ATF via the dipstick opening, since it's plenty big enough in diameter. I dumped the oem atf..and replaced it with RP synthetic ATF.

The auto tranny temps were still too high on my aeroforce gauge, so in went the 2nd auto tranny cooler, in series with the oem cooler. Made by B+M. The T stat in it is unique. Works on viscosity. It's also a bar + plate design. As the ATF heats up, the oil rides up higher on the plates..and makes more parallel passes. Ok, heating problems finally solved.

Stock, the auto tranny will puke out oil when hot. With less atf in there, the remaining atf will get even hotter. Not having a dipstick on the 05-14 cars is plane nuts imo. I was amazed at how fast the ATF temps rose, with blower on for 5-10 secs, they just shot way up, like 175 to 205 F in just a few secs...and that's with the deeper pan... ( but 2nd tranny cooler NOT installed)

On an un related note, while adding catch cans, I also added a JLT for the eng, to prevent eng oil from getting into the blower elbow, blower rotor's, intercooler, and all over the manifold.

The rear axle will also spew out oil..out the axle vent. So in went a Bob's motor sports axle catch can.
 

Sky Render

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Thanks, Terry!

Just throwing this out there as a word of caution for people with Relo Brackets of any flavor and to offer another scenario where welding the brackets can save the day.

Be very careful of automatic car washes after they are installed. Don't ask me how I know, but I'll tell you anyway :dunce:

There's a thread on here where somebody got their car "high centered" in an automatic car wash. Honestly I've never used on ever since an automatic wash scuffed an aftermarket wheel on the car I had in high school. I'm a detailing snob anyway. :p
 

Sky Render

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You need to adjust pinion angle, eliminate a sloppy bushing and destroy wheel hop? Boom. You need this.

IMG_2334_edited.jpg


IMG_2336_cropped.jpg


UTCA033_image6_large.jpg
 

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