Slotted Lug nut Saga - how to remove broken lug nut

[2011BaseGT]

Random tech tip here, but I just had to post this out there for those who have a broken lugnut.

I bought some new Gorilla Slotted lug nuts at Discount when I got my new wheels. The next day, I had springs installed and not sure if they were tightened too tight or if the lug nuts were a bad batch, but when I went to remove my wheels to install struts, two of the slotted lug nuts sheared in half when I went to take them off. It was two of them on the front left next to each other.

There was no way to remove them since only the base of the lug nut was left so I spent a whole Saturday drilling and chiseling carefully attempting to break the nut in half somehow, but had no luck.

Went back to Google and found on a Nissan Maxima forum that guys had luck using a 3/4 bi metal hole saw with the pilot bit removed worked.

I tried this and 10 minutes later, had ground away the remaining bolt and had success.

There's no other way to remove lug nuts that break this way without damaging your wheel.

Discount Tire, Firestone, and two other local Tire Shops claimed they had no idea of what to do, but the hole saw did it.

2 broken lugs and a lug that had started to twist apart - I found about half of the lugs were about to break when after I took them all off.

 

[MVSicari]

Good tip!

 

[Bud]

Good tip that I hope I never have to use, that sucks man!

 

[Bodam]

Jeesh. I just bought these lugs too. Thanks for the tip

 

[VTXFrank]

When it comes to these thinner, lower profile lugnuts, it's a good idea to leave the car on the ground and use the adapter with a 4-way lug wrench. Loosen each one a half a turn in a crisscrossing pattern. Do that two times. Then you can go on as normal. Don't use air tools to take these off or put them on and always use a torque wrench. Finally, make sure you use anti-seize compound on the stud threads. Just a dab will do ya!

 

[Sky Render]

When it comes to these thinner, lower profile lugnuts, it's a good idea to leave the car on the ground and use the adapter with a 4-way lug wrench. Loosen each one a half a turn in a crisscrossing pattern. Do that two times. Then you can go on as normal. Don't use air tools to take these off or put them on and always use a torque wrench. Finally, make sure you use anti-seize compound on the stud threads. Just a dab will do ya!

+1

Never use impact wrenches on these things!

 

[stkjock]

moved to DIY as it is not 2011+ Mustang specific

 

[Snakebyte94]

I changed my lugs to black one. I drove all summer. Only to find out when I went to put my winter rims on that the 8 of the front lugs were broke. Turns out the lugs were shorter that the stock lugs. So ground down all the wheel studs. I took the tip off. About 1/8 to 1/4". Oh yea only use a torque wrench on them.

 

[46Tbird]

When it comes to these thinner, lower profile lugnuts, it's a good idea to leave the car on the ground and use the adapter with a 4-way lug wrench. Loosen each one a half a turn in a crisscrossing pattern. Do that two times. Then you can go on as normal. Don't use air tools to take these off or put them on and always use a torque wrench. Finally, make sure you use anti-seize compound on the stud threads. Just a dab will do ya!

I agree with all that you said except the part about anti-seize. It may seem like a good idea but adding a lubricant to the threads can actually cause you to overtorque and distort (stretch) the lug studs and/or nuts. Torquing to 80lbs dry is actually quite a bit different than torquing to 80lbs with lubricated threads. Note that most engine fasteners have different assembly torque specs for dry, with engine oil, or with moly lube.

 

[Bodam]

What's everyone torque their lugs to?

 

[Ampire]

haha good old maxima.org i bet

Nothing like urban engineering. I learned a ton from that forum.