Soft Brakes when car is on...Hard when off.

86GT351

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Instead of a torch you can actually put a socket on the bleeder and while trying to turn it, tap the caliper housing lightly with a hammer. I have done this in the past and it has freed up a bleeder screw.
 

K_Brogoitti

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I wasn't meaning to heat up the bleeder red hot, just enough to get the metals to expand. Brakes are subject to extremely high temps under load so a little heat ain't no big deal. Never had an issue. But I can see the point of overheating the soft metal being a concern. For sure Nitrostang, a socket works well. However its a toss up cause I've snapped seized bleeders quite a few times doing that without some heat applied. I've even been able to remove broken bleeders from calipers. It isn't a pretty procedure but it saves a caliper.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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... I'm curious how you could contaminate the entire brake system (or much less any part of it) by using penetrating oil on a hole that serves exclusively as an out hole?

Yea, I was wondering what on earth he was talking about here. That's... that's just non-factual. Sorry.
 

K_Brogoitti

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*Sigh.... Obviously none of you guys have ever had to replace every single rubber component in a brake system cause some knucklehead decided to soak his bleeders with PLP and it worked its way into the brake fluid.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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*Sigh.... Obviously none of you guys have ever had to replace every single rubber component in a brake system cause some knucklehead decided to soak his bleeders with PLP and it worked its way into the brake fluid.

No, we haven't. Because that's ridiculous. "sigh" :idea:
 

86GT351

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I have had to replace all Rubber components because other fluids besides Brake FLuid got put into the Master Cylinder. Very Expensive Mistake.
 

Racer47

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That's a good idea about clamping off each caliper, unfortunately I only have 2 clamps and that would only work on the rears. Oh and the rears are stock. I would need to purchase 2 "quad pad" spreaders to complete the test.
:thumb:

You dont need the clamps. Just take the hose off the caliper and put a normal bolt through the hose end (not a banjo bolt) to hold brake pressure. Probably need some extra brass washers because you might ruin them doing this. Start with the caliper with the frozen bleeder. If the brakes are now firm (with only 3 calipers working) you know for sure what it is.

As far as the frozen bleeder, heat can be both your best friend and worst enemy. Start slowly, heat and soak with penetrating oil, apply steady force but dont round off the bleeder, use a 6 side socket or 6 side bleeder wrench. Be patient, it will come out.

I'm not from the NE but here in Wisconsin we see plenty of salt and frozen fasteners. Damn Texans can't deal with a little corrosion:roflmao:
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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maxresdefault.jpg
 

86GT351

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I meant people putting the wrong fluid in the Master Cylinder. Once it gets into the system, all the rubber gets contaminated and swells.
 

01yellerCobra

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I meant people putting the wrong fluid in the Master Cylinder. Once it gets into the system, all the rubber gets contaminated and swells.

That's how I understood your post. It's K_Brogoitti's comment about how spraying a little penetrating fluid on the bleeder valve is going to contaminate the whole system I find hard to believe.
 

K_Brogoitti

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That's how I understood your post. It's K_Brogoitti's comment about how spraying a little penetrating fluid on the bleeder valve is going to contaminate the whole system I find hard to believe.
A little PLP wouldn't probably be a big deal honestly. That one vehicle that had all the bleeders bathed in the stuff was what completely turned me off the idea of using any at all you know? OP its too bad you werent around my area I wouldn't have a problem helping you out.
 

RedfireV8

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Quick update: Wanted to say thank you to everyone who offered up their advice. Much appreciated!

Found a good deal on a new set of calipers and jumped on it. Went ahead and got new lines as well. After some fresh fluid and a good bleed, the brakes are like new again. These things definitely have some great stopping power.

Will be posting up the old calipers in the FS section soon for a decent price if anyone is interested in tackling that bleeder screw. Been through the ringer with a few of them and not wanting to deal with the headache. More than likely will need to be drilled out. But anyway, wanted to say thanks again guys. I really do appreciate yall.
 

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