Spydershaft Driveshaft Install!

MrClean

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Question for y'all with the spydershaft: if you get up to ~105 and left off the gas and shift to neutral, do you get a reverberation as the speedo passes through 100-95-90? I seem to. It doesn't seem to do it under load, or at least I can't hear/feel it over the engine/tranny NVH, and when I say under load, I mean both ways...it doesn's seem to do it decelerating in gear (as much) as when it is in neutral....any similar experiences?

Can y'all try this and report back?

Should I start a new thread?
 

scramblr

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I get it a bit at ~130mph down to 125mph, but I'm not done playing with the pinion angle. Mine is set at -1* right now and I'm going to go down in .5 increments. What's funny is that if I couldn't go 130mph+ legally I probably would never know.
 

MrClean

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scrambler: does it happen in the same manner as I describe, in off the gas in neutral, or do you feel it under acceleration too, and what exhaust do you have?

EDIT: Saw you have Kooks/Stingers....can you feel/hear it under acceleration?
 

scramblr

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I can feel it a bit as I'm crossing through 130mph and if I let up the gas the vibration gets a bit worse until ~125mph. Then it goes away. I don't believe I've tried pushing in the clutch and going into neutral, figured it'd be the same. I'll try it on the way to work in the morning.

Kinda cool I can do 130mph+ on the way to work and back everyday...legally.:onfire:
 

MrClean

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The thing with the pinion angle, is that you want it at 0º (that's Alt+167 for the º symbol) under acceleration, which means getting it to some number at rest that under accel will give you the 0º, but then under decel we're probably at -5º (which is what my PA is when I lift the car w/the susp not loaded).
 

MrClean

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I can feel it a bit as I'm crossing through 130mph and if I let up the gas the vibration gets a bit worse until ~125mph. Then it goes away. I don't believe I've tried pushing in the clutch and going into neutral, figured it'd be the same. I'll try it on the way to work in the morning.

Kinda cool I can do 130mph+ on the way to work and back everyday...legally.:onfire:
yeah let me know what you feel. and for the record I'm envious (about the legal 130+ mph):leghump:

Anyone else?

Spyder: Could this be harmful tot he tranny and/or rear end?
 
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LSlayer

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Question for y'all with the spydershaft: if you get up to ~105 and left off the gas and shift to neutral, do you get a reverberation as the speedo passes through 100-95-90? I seem to. It doesn't seem to do it under load, or at least I can't hear/feel it over the engine/tranny NVH, and when I say under load, I mean both ways...it doesn's seem to do it decelerating in gear (as much) as when it is in neutral....any similar experiences?

Can y'all try this and report back?

Should I start a new thread?

I get it all the way down to about 75. On my road trip yester day I also get vibes lets say if I'm in cruise going downhill between 75 80. Don't know if its the D/S or the trutrac. Not a big deal, so I just won't cruise down hill at 75 or 80, guess I'll settle for 90.
 

2MFF

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I get the same thing. If I am cruising at 80-100 (highest I have tested) and ease off the throttle or slowly roll into the throttle I get it.
 

spyder7724

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I get the same thing. If I am cruising at 80-100 (highest I have tested) and ease off the throttle or slowly roll into the throttle I get it.
That really sounds like something in the differential. Problem is that the stock shafts were designed to hide the vibration problem Ford couldn't fix(or didn't want to spend the $ to resolve) so it could have been there since the car was new and you just never knew about it.
I've said this before but I really do think the problem in these cars is the stock limited slip carrier(posi unit). I had a heck of a time getting gears setup in my car. From my measurements and detective work I really think the ring gear is not centered. it's off just enough to cause the ring gear to move eccentrically and really throw things off.
 

2MFF

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That really sounds like something in the differential. Problem is that the stock shafts were designed to hide the vibration problem Ford couldn't fix(or didn't want to spend the $ to resolve) so it could have been there since the car was new and you just never knew about it.
I've said this before but I really do think the problem in these cars is the stock limited slip carrier(posi unit). I had a heck of a time getting gears setup in my car. From my measurements and detective work I really think the ring gear is not centered. it's off just enough to cause the ring gear to move eccentrically and really throw things off.

With all the clunk and slop of the original driveshaft I would have never noticed this. Since the Spydershaft is so smooth it enables you to hear/feel what else is going on.

Do you think it is something terminal or just the way the differential has been/will be until its normal demise?
 

MrClean

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In my case I honestly don't think it's the differential.....I recognize the DS reverberation that my original stock DS had, which was eliminated when they replaced it under warranty.....fact is, this afternoon (after posting above) I ran it up to 115 and then let off (in 4rth) and didn't feel it at all, but I didn't put it in neutral. I think I discovered it by accident this morning, when accelerating, the Stinger's have a peak of vibes at about 3000 rpm, but I was undusre that's what I heard, so that's when I put it in neutral to listen w/o the engine/tranny/Stinger NVH. I'm going to try adjusting the PA a little more. If I can't resolve it, though, I'm contemplating taking it all off and going back to OEM: Spydershaft, CHE adj UCA, CHE adj panhard bar (who knows, centering the axle in relation to the body may have put it out of whack in relation to the DS). I hope it doesn't come to that; I like how the Spyder livened up the drivetrain.
 

KIMMER

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I really think ford had a lot of vib issues and tried to cover it up with the 2 piece shaft. I can't believe they would spend the extra money to make a 2 piece for any other reason. I get a little vib/noise from 65-85mph and nothing after that or before, but I think it is a characteristic of these cars.
 

LSlayer

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All in all my main beef with the vibes I just want to make sure nothing is going to break or wear out too prematurely. Yeah, I like having a smooth ride but it is a mustang so I can understand and deal with some NVH.
 

MrClean

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All in all my main beef with the vibes I just want to make sure nothing is going to break or wear out too prematurely. Yeah, I like having a smooth ride but it is a mustang so I can understand and deal with some NVH.
+1, that's exactly how I feel...funny thing is I can't really feel it over the exhaust/engine/tranny NVH unless I put it in neutral at 105 and wait for it to decelerate ...but that is exactly what I'm concerned about: safety (shit breaking/seizing at speed) and longevity of rear end/tranny/DS.

Edit: BTW this PM I'm buying Rhino 8000 lbs ramps to safely "lift" the car (w/loaded suspension), and I'm veryifying PA, and if it still is at -2º or -1.5º, I might pull it back to -1º...the CHE UCA w/poly bushing does have a lot less "give" than the stock UCA bushing....
 
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J

Johnmichael

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So you're buying 2 sets of the ramps? I hope your jack can lift the car up high enough to place the other set under the wheels after you drive up on the first set of ramps. Be careful!
 

scramblr

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I hate Rhino ramps. Damn things always slip out from the front tires while driving up on them. I just put jacks under the front and the rear axle.
 

LSlayer

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All you need are two ramps for the front wheels and two jack stands to place under the axles to load the entire suspension. But I ran into the problem of my jack stands not going quite high enough to level the car out completely with the front.
 

MrClean

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So you're buying 2 sets of the ramps? I hope your jack can lift the car up high enough to place the other set under the wheels after you drive up on the first set of ramps. Be careful!

Yes, I bought the two sets (on faith that I'd be able to lift the car enough for them to fit), drove it up on the fronts, then put the floor hack under the pumpkin and jacked up, then inserted the rear ramps. FYI the floor jack is one of those Craftsman's with a 14.5" total lift (4000 lbs capacity), but didn't have to go that high, and the ramps are the $34, 8000 lbs Rhino ramps.

Had plenty room under to scoot around underneath on the creeper (THAT sure beats crawling under on a towel!)

Measured the PA using a ruler held against the rear of the pinion flange, making sure to not be resting on the bolts protruding through, then put the angle finder on the ruler lower down. Also did it with a carpenter's square to confirm findinds. DS was at -4º, and PF at -1º, resulting in -3º, so I adjusted to -1.5º. Raining like Hell here so I wasn't able to take her up to speed to test.

However, reading more this morning, I came accross THIS SITE, that says the procedure to measure/set PA with a 1 pc DS is different from the 2 pc ...the procedure I followed was for a 2 pc:thud:. Sooooo, this evening, she goes back up on the ramps (I can already hear my wife sighing...:furious:) and I'll verify that the tranny flange to pinion flange is the same minus 1.5º to 2º.....

Oh BTW, (this was confusing to me at first, so I mention this for the slower sorts like myself), on the CHE Adj UCA, looking at it with your head towards the front of the vehicle and your feet towards the back, the front jam nut tightens on the adjusting nut while turning clockwise, and the rear jam nut tightens agains the rear of the UCA counterclockwise (again looking from front to back). The adjusting nut lengthens the UCA (to decrease PA) by turning counterclockwise. The most comfortable position I found with decent access for doing this, was positioning myself directly under the DS whith my feet towards the rear of the car, with the pumpking basically over my chest/midsection. I hope this helps someone else during this procedure. A good fluorescent light under there works wonders too! I used blue loctite on the jam nuts. (ever noticed how it turns brick color when dry?)

I know this slight reverberation happens outside my regular driving speed range (decelerating in neutral, it starts @ about 105 and stops around 90), but it just makes me uncomfortable. Does anyone with other non-Spyder aluminum DS's have this type of issue? I noticed the CHE 1 pc alum DS uses the stock pinion flange, with some sort of adapter.

Again, I really hope this cures the vibes, if not, the shop that installed it will charge $75 to put the stocker back.
 
J

Johnmichael

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Glad they worked out, Marc.

Scramblr, I use 2x10x4 pressure treaded planks up against my wall to keep my truck ramps from sliding. Taco Bill mentioned he uses roof shingles to keep his stable.
 

2MFF

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I hate Rhino ramps. Damn things always slip out from the front tires while driving up on them. I just put jacks under the front and the rear axle.

I tied a piece of rope through the hole and drive onto the rope before going up the ramp. Holds them pretty well
 

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