Starting my build (soon)

teeje

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Hey there guys. I've been active on here awhile but haven't really posted much. Anyway, I have a 2008 mustang gt (manual)

I came from a jeep liberty and let me tell you I'm glad I finally got the car I always wanted

I've done some small things here and there. So far i have re done the seats with classic coat, installed a trufiber center console and lid for the arm rest, a 2012 steering wheel with audio controls for my pioneer AVIC-8200NEX, a new shift boot from ford and shift knob, and weather tech floor mats. That's pretty much it. As far as I can tell it's stock. It was a one owner with 99,000 miles on it. Right now it has 107,xxx
The only thing the previous owner did was cut off the mufflers for two cherry bombs. Granted it sounds great and I would leave it, but the guy didn't do the tips right. Looks like he got cheap tips and they're not pointing out of the bumper rather just pointing at the ground.

I recently got back from the navy and I'm on disability right now but when I get back to work I want to do a few things.

First thing on my agenda is doing the Shelby front end conversion. One thing: can someone tell me everything I'll need for this? I want the hood and bumper I know that for sure but not so sure on everything else.

Next is under drive pulleys and ice heard of charge motion plates but not really sure what they do.

Then Id like to install an aluminum drive shaft.

I'm open to other ideas. I'm good with mechanical stuff so I'm putting all cards on the table.

Thanks!
Can't wait to hear your ideas

Oh..and new rims..at some point, she already has new tires
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46addict

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Congrats on the new ride and welcome.

On charge motion plates, they are electronically controlled butterfly blades on your intake manifold that controls incoming air velocity. At low engine speeds the blades remain partially open like a throttle blade and this is supposed to help fuel mix, improves low end torque and reduces emissions. Removing them is only good for 5whp, if that, but there are pro/cons to removing them. I could see how the blades could break off on a boosted engine, and I've heard of guys having issues with carbon on the blades, so I took mine out.

If you decide to remove the plates, you will need a new tune, as do some other mods (i.e. CAI, longtubes, gear ratio change, etc) that require having a handheld tuner of some sort . If you plan on doing any of these it might be worth collecting the parts and installing them all at once so you can tune it once and be done for a while. But that's just me.
 
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JeremyH

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Can you give me some insight on this? Just a tune?

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Yeah you can do just a tune as well. I picked up 35rwhp and 30rwtq with a cold air intake and 93 octane email tune. Helps throttle response as well. Its nice to have the handheld tuner anyway as you can play with rev limiter, speed limiter, gear ratio and tire height to correct speedo with different wheels etc. Its also a code reader and so on. I would recommend sct.
 

teeje

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Yeah you can do just a tune as well. I picked up 35rwhp and 30rwtq with a cold air intake and 93 octane email tune. Helps throttle response as well. Its nice to have the handheld tuner anyway as you can play with rev limiter, speed limiter, gear ratio and tire height to correct speedo with different wheels etc. Its also a code reader and so on. I would recommend sct.
How much do those run? Too bad my Marco scan tool won't do this..atleast I don't think it does. It uses MDMAXME

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bujeezus

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^ That's the route I went with a bone stock Bullitt. Noticeable results from the butt-dyno. Would definitely recommend it. The guys at VMP are top notch.
 
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