Stock '13 GT 1/4 Times?

Seer

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You all have some good times, I expect to be right about a 12.9/13.0, but I am wanting to give myself the best chance...so limiting/stopping wheel hop is a big deal, as well as it seems like these cars that the axle tubes can twist in anything stickier than the pirelli's they come with.

DEFINITELY weld the axle tubes. Friend of mine fubar'd his rear end running on drag radials without doing that. It's cheap insurance.
 

NoSlo5oH

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Are you going to have the rear end completely disassembled and a jig used to weld the tubes? I have a Premium 13 on order and will be having the tubes welded on mine too. I had the tubes welded on my 04 Mach1, but no jig was used, nor did I disassemble the rear before welding. I want to do it right this time around though.
 
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AJCrader

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I was told that as long as the person knows what they are doing a jig isn't necessary as long as there is no weight on the axles from the car itself...just my $.02
 

NoSlo5oH

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I was told that as long as the person knows what they are doing a jig isn't necessary as long as there is no weight on the axles from the car itself...just my $.02

I believe you have a better than average chance of no problems welding them without a jig. While I didn't have any problems when I had the tubes welded on my Mach1, I don't think I am going to risk it this time around. I want to confirm everything is in perfect alignment. I am actually thinking hard about buying my own jig and calling out a mobile welding company to do the work. This way I can have subframe connectors done at the same time.
 

timfoster405

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100% stock '13 GT automatic... 12.86 at 111 w/ 2.05 60 ft. 80 deg. w/ a DA 1525 (I would have run a 12.64 at standard Atmosphere/temp
 

Sharad

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I have a '13 GT, no mods at all.

I was wanting to know what 1/4 times I should expect with a 6spd(average shifter)

Secondly, and other than welding the axle tubes, are there any other mods/tips to help me with my E.T.'s.

In this order:

Sticky Tires (Hoosier Quick Time Pro, M/T ET Street, etc)

UPR control arms: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-street-control-arm-package-11.html

Adjustable Shocks: http://www.uprproducts.com/strange-mustang-adjustable-shock-05.html

Those mods alone can drop close to half a second off of the sixty foot times of your stock manual trans Mustang. And a half second reduction in 60-foot time will drop almost a FULL SECOND off of your quarter mile time.

Beyond that, as you step up the power you might consider drag springs, adjustable struts, front swaybar eliminator, etc. Just depends on how far you want to go.

At UPR Products, our parts are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and we offer S197 members a discount. :thumb:
 

AJCrader

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I went out to Speedworld last night, in Phoenix, and had my first night of attempting to learn to race a manual. Definitely not what I expected at first, but I made 13 passes which allowed me to work out some newb kinks.

Best Pass
60'-2.1846
330'-5.7700
1/8 et-8.6449
1/8 mph-86.42
1000' et-11.0177
1000' mph-99.10
1/4 et-13.1464
1/4 mph-109.84

Would have been better(missed 4th)
60'-2.1611
330'-5.7003
1/8 et-8.5509
1/8 mph-87.09
1000' et-10.9795
1000' mph-93.44
1/4 et-13.2186
1/4 mph-104.85
 

AJCrader

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In this order:

Sticky Tires (Hoosier Quick Time Pro, M/T ET Street, etc)

UPR control arms: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-street-control-arm-package-11.html

Adjustable Shocks: http://www.uprproducts.com/strange-mustang-adjustable-shock-05.html

Those mods alone can drop close to half a second off of the sixty foot times of your stock manual trans Mustang. And a half second reduction in 60-foot time will drop almost a FULL SECOND off of your quarter mile time.

Beyond that, as you step up the power you might consider drag springs, adjustable struts, front swaybar eliminator, etc. Just depends on how far you want to go.

At UPR Products, our parts are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and we offer S197 members a discount. :thumb:

My goal for the next few years is to have fun at the strip, but mostly street driving, plan to keep everything stock, except rear suspension. I know that I should go with the poly/poly LCAs, but is there any benefit to putting in the UCAs if I do nothing else?
 

AJCrader

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I ran a 12.3 in my 13' bone stock on a set of racemasters

I ran this past Saturday on 18" Racemasters, got a best of 12.84@110, for some reason though, the car loses some power as soon as the clutch is all the way out...also my launches are pretty crappy, I either let the clutch out too fast or too slow, but either way my best 60' was only a 1.9.
 

46Tbird

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The stock tune has some torque reduction if it senses excessive clutch slippage; that might explain the power drop off after launch.
 

AJCrader

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The stock tune has some torque reduction if it senses excessive clutch slippage; that might explain the power drop off after launch.

That would definitely explain it, maybe I will just launch at a lower rpm, and drop the clutch...see if that helps some
 

AJCrader

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Headed out this am on street tires, just going out to play and relieve some stress, maybe I can get a 12 on the pirelli's
 

Paul.

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Dang AJ, you were kickin' my ass all day long. The best my car could do (with Nic driving no less) was 13.11 @ 109.70 mph.

I have a good picture of our cars in the staging lanes if I can get it off my stupid phone.

Oh, and if you find someone that can weld axle tubes here locally, I'm in as well.

Paul.
 

Paul.

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Here you go man:

PaulvsAJ.jpg
 

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