strut tower brace info

[speedfreak1000]

well i guess its sway bars for the car then. now to do the research to figure out which ones to go with the vogtland springs and koni yellows. putting suspension on my old 81 z28 was a easier choice, i just went with all Hotchkis.

 

[Philostang]

Sam's bars. Lots of adjustability, good price, good customer support.

I had Steeda bars on my car when I ran Koni Yellow/Vogtland springs. They were great, but for about the same money I'd have preferred the greater adjustability of Strano's bars (which I believe are the same dia. as the Steeda ones).

Best,
-j

 

[Kobie]

STB = Spend money and add weight to front of car.

 

[Moochman4life]

I always thought the "STB, flex-no flex" topic was an interesting one.

Back when I first got my S197, I decided to make some purchases based on what I did to my 2000 new edge: strut tower and a-arm braces. Instead of doing the research, I definitely made my decisions based on past experiences and what seemed popularized by manufacturers.

I guess I suffered from a little confirmation bias, too, and for a while tried to disprove it. After talking to some FR500 owners who actually track their cars, and seeing a couple for myself, I have not seen or heard one FR500 that ran a strut tower brace. They definitely might be out there...just haven't seen one. But for some reason (marketing, maybe, like someone alluded to), they are on the Boss 302R.

A couple years ago, I pulled off my Steeda STB based on my interactions with the FR500 guys. I was one of those that said: if the FR500 doesn't run one, I'll surmise that all the STB is going to amount to is extra weight...especially if I'm not a 10/10 driver right now, and am still doing the DE thing working my way up to "seat time".

I spent a little bit of time in the seat trying to figure out if I could "feel a difference" and - of course - I couldn't. The handling characteristics never changed on the same track after the only change I made was removing the STB.

Man, I'll tell ya, if I did it all over again as a budding DE'er, I would mod - in order:

1. Upgraded pads
2. Driver mod
3. Tires
4. Driver mod
5. Dampers
6. Driver mod
7. Springs
8. Driver mod
9. Sways

And the list goes on. Unfortunately, I kind of went ass backwards due to stubbornness and lack of education...to include the power mods. I learned my lesson.

 

[Napoleon85]

I always thought the "STB, flex-no flex" topic was an interesting one.

Back when I first got my S197, I decided to make some purchases based on what I did to my 2000 new edge: strut tower and a-arm braces. Instead of doing the research, I definitely made my decisions based on past experiences and what seemed popularized by manufacturers.

I guess I suffered from a little confirmation bias, too, and for a while tried to disprove it. After talking to some FR500 owners who actually track their cars, and seeing a couple for myself, I have not seen or heard one FR500 that ran a strut tower brace. They definitely might be out there...just haven't seen one. But for some reason (marketing, maybe, like someone alluded to), they are on the Boss 302R.

A couple years ago, I pulled off my Steeda STB based on my interactions with the FR500 guys. I was one of those that said: if the FR500 doesn't run one, I'll surmise that all the STB is going to amount to is extra weight...especially if I'm not a 10/10 driver right now, and am still doing the DE thing working my way up to "seat time".

I spent a little bit of time in the seat trying to figure out if I could "feel a difference" and - of course - I couldn't. The handling characteristics never changed on the same track after the only change I made was removing the STB.

Man, I'll tell ya, if I did it all over again as a budding DE'er, I would mod - in order:

1. Upgraded pads
2. Driver mod
3. Tires
4. Driver mod
5. Dampers
6. Driver mod
7. Springs
8. Driver mod
9. Sways

And the list goes on. Unfortunately, I kind of went ass backwards due to stubbornness and lack of education...to include the power mods. I learned my lesson.

I can't agree with this more, and having done the same thing I have been giving the same advice. I wasted so much time/money adding power, completely oblivious to the fact that my driving skill and suspension/brakes/tires were cumulatively maxed out at stock power levels.

That said, I took my factory stb off when I installed my boss intake mani and could tell NO difference in the handling characteristics of the car. I couldn't see putting the weight back on for no measurable gains, especially since I'm trying to make the car lighter!

 

[fun4me]

What about the brace for the rear that some companies market. Does anyone use one?

 

[Napoleon85]

What about the brace for the rear that some companies market. Does anyone use one?

Are you talking about this?

http://www.steeda.com/store/mustang-rear-seat-x-brace-black-engraved.html

or something like this?

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-rear-shock-tower-brace-for-ford-mustang.html

Either way, I don't hear of many people running one or quantifiable gains. If I was going for rigidity in that area, I would put in something like the MM Roll bar with the extra diagonal brace.

 

[speedfreak1000]

.
1. Upgraded pads
2. Driver mod
3. Tires
4. Driver mod
5. Dampers
6. Driver mod
7. Springs
8. Driver mod
9. Sways

i'll probably do sway bars then i'll definatly upgrade pads and rotors. driver mod will be ongoing.

 

[Mountain]

What about the brace for the rear that some companies market. Does anyone use one?

Thoes are mainly meant for use on cars that run a coil-over in the rear. The rear shock towers are only designed with damper loads in mind. They are not designed for the loads seen with a coil spring added. Although the FR500C/FR500S/302R/302S cars all have cages, there is always a horizontal brace from one shock tower to the other.

I guess if one didn't mind the small weight gain, a brace could be put in for the sake of longevity (fatigue)..?

 

[Sky Render]

I like Whiteline's sway bars, but that topic has already been debated to death.

 

[kevinatfms]

IIRC the FR500S cars had the option of a STB when manufactured, most teams chose to remove them/not run them as they offered no additional benefit to the front of the car.

 

[lamont2506]

What about the brace for the rear that some companies market. Does anyone use one?

Not that I am in anyways an expert on this but I use the steeda rear brace. Before I installed it my base model 2012 GT was bone stock and I noticed that the rear trunk lid was wearing through the paint between it and the rear bumper. After I installed the rear brace the paint wear stopped completely.

 

[908ssp]

Not that I am in anyways an expert on this but I use the steeda rear brace. Before I installed it my base model 2012 GT was bone stock and I noticed that the rear trunk lid was wearing through the paint between it and the rear bumper. After I installed the rear brace the paint wear stopped completely.

BS

 

[Sky Render]

Not that I am in anyways an expert on this but I use the steeda rear brace. Before I installed it my base model 2012 GT was bone stock and I noticed that the rear trunk lid was wearing through the paint between it and the rear bumper. After I installed the rear brace the paint wear stopped completely.

I believe you are retarded.

 

[kevinatfms]

Not that I am in anyways an expert on this but I use the steeda rear brace. Before I installed it my base model 2012 GT was bone stock and I noticed that the rear trunk lid was wearing through the paint between it and the rear bumper. After I installed the rear brace the paint wear stopped completely.

 

[lamont2506]

I believe you are retarded.

Well I am more than open to other reasons why the paint wear stopped.

 

[speedfreak1000]

LMAO. You guys are so brutal its funny

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Well I am more than open to other reasons why the paint wear stopped.

The poor panel alignment from the factory finally clearanced itself?

Simplest explaination (Occam's razor) is that the trunk-lid panel stops were mis-adjusted, allowing the trunk to compress the weatherstripping enough to contact the rear fascia. OR that the lower support for the fascia is problematic, allowing the airflow under the car to balloon it up and out, thus contacting the trunk lid.

Face it, IF the brace does anything, it prevents the inner wheelwell from moving inward, which is the force axis applied by the inclined dampers. IF you were getting panel wear from that motion, I would expect to see it between the quarters and the trunk lid. NO motion that would be constrained by the brace would push the trunk lid down, or pull the bumper up.

I would take the car back to the dealer and let them figure out why their stock car is rubbing panels together.

 

[jymontoya]

Thoes are mainly meant for use on cars that run a coil-over in the rear. The rear shock towers are only designed with damper loads in mind. They are not designed for the loads seen with a coil spring added. Although the FR500C/FR500S/302R/302S cars all have cages, there is always a horizontal brace from one shock tower to the other.

I guess if one didn't mind the small weight gain, a brace could be put in for the sake of longevity (fatigue)..?

Horseshit. I know tons of S197s on real rear coilovers without any issues. Please stop spreading false information. The rear shock towers are very very strong.

 

[leviathon]

Not that I am in anyways an expert on this but I use the steeda rear brace. Before I installed it my base model 2012 GT was bone stock and I noticed that the rear trunk lid was wearing through the paint between it and the rear bumper. After I installed the rear brace the paint wear stopped completely.