Supercharger boost

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
So today installed a 3.4 pulley on my saleen supercharger and went to go get a tune, the pulley is supposed to put me at around 8-10 psi. I am only pushing 6psi? Any idea why? Should i be concerned about the blower ? Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

stkjock

---- Madmin ----
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Posts
40,243
Reaction score
3,159
Location
Long Island NY
What’s the rest of the set up
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
What’s the rest of the set up

3.4 pulley, saleen cold air, 39lb injectors, axleback, everything else is pretty much stock. Can it be because im still running my oem hpipe with cats?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

msvela448

forum member
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Posts
444
Reaction score
176
Could be several things...

Are you measuring boost with the factory gage? The pressure sensor in the front passenger side of the intake by the throttle body might be bad, the adjustment of the bypass valve..etc...

Also, did you change the belt size? Do you have a MoSaleen idler arm? Have you upgraded to the V10 water pump pulley? You could be seeing a lot of belt slip.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
Could be several things...

Are you measuring boost with the factory gage? The pressure sensor in the front passenger side of the intake by the throttle body might be bad, the adjustment of the bypass valve..etc...

Also, did you change the belt size? Do you have a MoSaleen idler arm? Have you upgraded to the V10 water pump pulley? You could be seeing a lot of belt slip.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

No the guy that did my tune installed a mechanical gauge to see boost, i have nothing there it looks capped off. Yes i put on correct belt size its pretty tight. I have oem idler arm and have not upgraded water pump pulley.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

msvela448

forum member
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Posts
444
Reaction score
176
On the tune... Did your guy datalog the boost? If so it can be very obvious if you are getting belt slip you'd see a very wavy line with tons of peaks and valleys. Otherwise it's a guess as to whether your belt is slipping. Has anyone ever messed with the bypass valve set screw (rear passenger side of the blower manifold down near where the manifold meets the heads) ? That thing is super sensitive to adjustment and will bleed off boost if adjusted incorrectly.

I think you should check out the MoSaleen idler regardless of any of the above... It will really help with any slip. http://www.mosaleen.com/

The stock tensioner arm is really inadequate for any supercharged application... Read "Belt Tensioner Tech" on this page: https://www.departmentofboost.com/tech/#general-tech

The V10 water pump pulley is a cheap way to add a lite extra wrap for the s/c pulley in addition to all the above. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct..._NmhxqsMkv8UiTdZCrB1xN_BZsEK-MhoCEOkQAvD_BwE


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

07 Boss

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Posts
3,846
Reaction score
978
Location
Sin City
What pulley did you have on there before and how much boost were you making?
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
What pulley did you have on there before and how much boost were you making?

Before i had the 3.6 it was rated for 6-8 psi but i never checked to be honest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

07 Boss

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Posts
3,846
Reaction score
978
Location
Sin City
How is she running? Do you have more power? The reason I ask is that maybe your set up just doesn't make that much boost which actually is OK in the grand scheme of things. Less boost, given the same supercharger, will actually produce more power. Remember, boost is a measure of restriction not power. Anyways if the guys gauge was off by a lb and the factory exaggerated a bit on their claims you might be right in the ball park. I run a 3.1" pulley on a whipple (same size sc) that is advertised as 10-12 psi but I barely see 10.5 due to my set up. Being a couple of steps up in pulley size I really don't think its that far off, maybe a pound or two, and there are many things that may contribute to this variance.
 

msvela448

forum member
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Posts
444
Reaction score
176
I concur... I have a Saleen S/C and I run a 2.75" pulley, but I also have CNC ported heads and 1.75" long tube headers, Ford Racing TB, JLT 110mm intake, 3" exhaust, and big cams so I only see about 11 PSI of boost because I can flow a lot more air than stock. It would normally be making 15+ psi with stock components due to the restriction they would impose.

The stock Saleen s/c pulley should be good for about 5-7psi... You haven't stepped down much in size from stock and I would think you'd make about 8 psi or so.

A big issue for any aftermarket s/c system is that belt slip... Do everything you can to eliminate slip.

BTW... The stock rods are good for about 500hp... Beyond that and you are rolling the dice.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
No the guy that did my tune installed a mechanical gauge to see boost, i have nothing there it looks capped off. Yes i put on correct belt size its pretty tight. I have oem idler arm and have not upgraded water pump pulley.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where is the boost gauge getting its readings from?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
Where is the boost gauge getting its readings from?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]

It looked like he tied it in to a hose going to a sensor on driver side not sure what its called but ill send a picture. You can see the t he tied in.
9a0dced3b1a6e1da4baddfdff142fba9.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
I concur... I have a Saleen S/C and I run a 2.75" pulley, but I also have CNC ported heads and 1.75" long tube headers, Ford Racing TB, JLT 110mm intake, 3" exhaust, and big cams so I only see about 11 PSI of boost because I can flow a lot more air than stock. It would normally be making 15+ psi with stock components due to the restriction they would impose.

The stock Saleen s/c pulley should be good for about 5-7psi... You haven't stepped down much in size from stock and I would think you'd make about 8 psi or so.

A big issue for any aftermarket s/c system is that belt slip... Do everything you can to eliminate slip.

BTW... The stock rods are good for about 500hp... Beyond that and you are rolling the dice.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Can my bypass valve going bad also cause loss of boost?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
I see the white “T” and assume that is it. That vacuum line goes to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, FRPS for short.
That is not a good location to install boost gauge. If there is a vacuum leak it can cause the FRPS to send incorrect info to ECM and damage engine. I am not familiar with the Saleen unit, but on my Edelbrock, I was getting a 20% higher reading from the FRPS line than actual boost because it read pressure before intercooler. And there is always a drop I. Boost after the intercooler because of temperatures difference and air flow restrictions. Why you are reading lower, I don’t know. You could have a bad boost sensor. The first one I had from Areoforce did not work correctly. Here is the warning from Edelbrock about tapping into the FRPS line.
CAUTION: Never cut into the vacuum lines leading to the fuel rail pressure sensor and bypass actuator, on the driver's side of the manifold, for the purpose of tapping in a boost gauge. Interruption of the vacuum signal to the fuel rail pressure sensor can affect the fuel pressure reading to the PCM, which can result in engine failure! Furthermore, this port reads pressure before the intercooler, and therefore is before the inherent intercooler pressure drop. Readings from this port will always be approx. 20% higher then what the engine actually sees.
 

Jcg_3v94

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Posts
106
Reaction score
2
I see the white “T” and assume that is it. That vacuum line goes to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, FRPS for short.
That is not a good location to install boost gauge. If there is a vacuum leak it can cause the FRPS to send incorrect info to ECM and damage engine. I am not familiar with the Saleen unit, but on my Edelbrock, I was getting a 20% higher reading from the FRPS line than actual boost because it read pressure before intercooler. And there is always a drop I. Boost after the intercooler because of temperatures difference and air flow restrictions. Why you are reading lower, I don’t know. You could have a bad boost sensor. The first one I had from Areoforce did not work correctly. Here is the warning from Edelbrock about tapping into the FRPS line.
CAUTION: Never cut into the vacuum lines leading to the fuel rail pressure sensor and bypass actuator, on the driver's side of the manifold, for the purpose of tapping in a boost gauge. Interruption of the vacuum signal to the fuel rail pressure sensor can affect the fuel pressure reading to the PCM, which can result in engine failure! Furthermore, this port reads pressure before the intercooler, and therefore is before the inherent intercooler pressure drop. Readings from this port will always be approx. 20% higher then what the engine actually sees.

Still wonder why i read lower then if its supposed to read higher. What about my bypass valve?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

msvela448

forum member
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Posts
444
Reaction score
176
The bypass valve is held open while under vacuum... And closes when you step on the gas and the vacuum goes down... So a damaged bypass actuator would stay closed and cause boost pressure at any RPM and any throttle position. This usually results in a car that is very slow to return to idle when coming off boost because there is still pressure built up in the manifold.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

msvela448

forum member
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Posts
444
Reaction score
176
The port for measuring boost that goes directly into the manifold is on the driver side rear of the lower portion of thr manifold... I drew an arrow on your picture.

I agree to also not tap into the FRPS... The more cuts / connections the more chance for leaks.
cced4e8a257397e106c31f1b32562b89.jpg


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top