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TheGhostTiger

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Throw enough money at an engine you can make it sing and dance like a possessed toaster from Ghostbusters 2. Cylinder Heads are as important as what block they sit on. The 3v was a great design for its day, but it's still just a 3v. Cranking 500whp NA out of a 3v is a tough goal. I know plenty who sunk bundles into their NA setups just to squeeze 400 NA out of a 281 3v. The big bore block gives you displacement advantage, but Natural Aspiration is like conducting a symphony, all of the parts have to play to the same goal. Look at the GT350, for example. Specifically built for bucking NA power, yet every boost-addict on the planet was thinking, "Imagine if it had xx psi behind it!"



I'm just a 3v junky, not a conductor, I can't say what it'll take to crank 500whp NA out of a BBB. All I know, it'll be expensive. What Bruce did with his was gorgeous, but I don't think he had an agenda behind his build other than it was built to his specification of personal enjoyment, that just happened to rev to the tune of 400+ NA 3v. I would own his car right now if I had the money I have now back then to drop on another car (or could have sold mine sooner).

I'm more of an efficiency man, personally. For every dollar I sink into a car, I expect a certain margin of performance in return. NA potential in a 281 3v has diminishing returns. More cubes increase those returns considerably, but you're changing the platform to get bigger returns (no longer OE 281). As much as I envied Bruce's build, I made similar power or better with a $2,000 used blower kit on an otherwise OEM 281 3v. My aspiration for more power faded quickly when I came to terms with the power I had put to the street. I have a friend with a 630whp Terminator, and frankly the car is a waste on the street. There isn't a gear that's useful at WOT below 90mph. Unless you just enjoy drifting from light to light.

I certainly recognize the entertainment in high power builds, though. I fantasize often of buying a '98 Cobra as my base platform and building it to turbo spec's, hog the heads out and port match everything, call it done somewhere around 600-700whp. Personally, I like the "B" head 4v 281, so often under-estimated and under-valued. But, I would be coming out of pocket (car + build) almost the same money I could buy a used '11-'17 for, and have an inferior chassis. It'd be great in a straight line, but I'd have to sink even more money to hope to keep up in braking, cornering, and stability. While the S550's are the better car, I still can't get over the fact that they've turned them into tanks, nearing full size pickup weight of yesteryear. I fluster today's charger's and challengers with my little Focus ST, by the time they make full steam I'm long gone being 1,000lbs lighter and making max power at 2,500rpm. Given enough road, one could certainly reel me in, but such circumstances rarely exist in random street grudges. Leaving them red with a $40,000 asphalt yacht. No, I faced the choice of my little hot hatch or a used S550 already, I just couldn't drag the boat anchor in my environment. The call of a Ford V8 will just have to brood a while longer, preferably to the tune of a '07-'11 GT500 when the time comes. TVS swap, done.

If you do go for the big bore block, I'm certain BruceH is still lurking these parts to give you pointers. The hot rod cams sure sound great and produce some decent gains, not exactly a max effort cam but gains with style. I think he wanted to swap just for curiousity. I don't recall if his 3v heads were ported or not, I want to say they were. Either way, once you hit the diminishing returns wall NA, the only step left is power adder. If I had still had the drive to build engines, for a 3v, the big bore block would have been the direction I wanted to go.

Maybe I should have saved this for my first post here on the s197 forums, but when you said expensive and symphony i just salivated. My sister was the favorite in the family and my dad rewarded her with a 1985 mustang red black ragtop convertible. She had the car for 10 years, until she traded it for a 95 v6 convertible.

[She use to bully me too until I started lifting weights. I even paid to wash her car.]

Well, I finally got a Mustang, [a high mileage black 05 GT], and I'm happier than a murder suspect who has just been cleared due to lack of evidence, cuz I finally gets to learn me how to build motors!!!!


Since 1985 I wondered what if I researched the heck out of the potential of the motor, and i took my time building the car of my dreams? I plan to sink an unlimited amount of cash in this car, because I want a canyon carver that does 10's. I don't ever plan to sell her either, she keeps me out of trouble.

[I'm already researching the best machinist I can for a stage 2 port on the 3v heads. I have a complete ignition system in mid as well.]

Heck, I read the 3v cylinder article every night, it helps me sleep!!! Im budgeting for part by part every month, then when I have the parts I need, I begin to save up for the build.

DpgEdKbUYAE11OS.jpg:large

But right now, good things come to those who wait.

I wonder the na potential of a 5.3 crank? Imagine if this was Scrooge Mcduck's Mustang, one month a part here, next month a part there....

[EDIT]

What do you think this combo will make with a 290 300 cfm port to a 3v heads? https://www.trickflow.com/articles/...k-flow-gets-466-hp-out-of-a-ford-2v-mod-motor [edit]


Bowling's Compression Ratio -> HP Calculator
Computation Results:
  • Engine Horsepower (peak) is 466
  • Old Compression Ratio is 10.2
  • New Compression Ratio is 10.5
    Computation Results:
  • Computed New Engine HP is 470, a 1 percent change

394 est rwhp
 
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702GT

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Maybe I should have saved this for my first post here on the s197 forums, but when you said expensive and symphony i just salivated. My sister was the favorite in the family and my dad rewarded her with a 1985 mustang red black ragtop convertible. She had the car for 10 years, until she traded it for a 95 v6 convertible.

[She use to bully me too until I started lifting weights. I even paid to wash her car.]

Well, I finally got a Mustang, [a high mileage black 05 GT], and I'm happier than a murder suspect who has just been cleared due to lack of evidence, cuz I finally gets to learn me how to build motors!!!!


Since 1985 I wondered what if I researched the heck out of the potential of the motor, and i took my time building the car of my dreams? I plan to sink an unlimited amount of cash in this car, because I want a canyon carver that does 10's. I don't ever plan to sell her either, she keeps me out of trouble.

[I'm already researching the best machinist I can for a stage 2 port on the 3v heads. I have a complete ignition system in mid as well.]

Heck, I read the 3v cylinder article every night, it helps me sleep!!! Im budgeting for part by part every month, then when I have the parts I need, I begin to save up for the build.

DpgEdKbUYAE11OS.jpg:large

But right now, good things come to those who wait.

I wonder the na potential of a 5.3 crank? Imagine if this was Scrooge Mcduck's Mustang, one month a part here, next month a part there....

[EDIT]

What do you think this combo will make with a 290 300 cfm port to a 3v heads? https://www.trickflow.com/articles/...k-flow-gets-466-hp-out-of-a-ford-2v-mod-motor [edit]


Bowling's Compression Ratio -> HP Calculator
Computation Results:
  • Engine Horsepower (peak) is 466
  • Old Compression Ratio is 10.2
  • New Compression Ratio is 10.5
    Computation Results:
  • Computed New Engine HP is 470, a 1 percent change
394 est rwhp

If I recall correctly, the FRPP CNC 3v heads had the greatest CFM potential once ported. The problem with porting the factory 3v heads is material. They didn't leave much in the ports to hog out. I think at best a 1mm bigger valve is possible, but at the cost of degrading the integrity of the head, and risk of potentially damaging the head during the porting process if the shop wasn't careful. The FRPP 3v was a new casting, giving the 3v better potential particularly when ported further, though valve sizing was still restrictive. Just the nature of the 3v beast. The 3v has the advantage of being essentially a 2v dimension, saving space under the hood, while trumping its predecessor in flow. Bar the exception of new castings, such as the trickflow 2v heads. Those are monsters in their own right.

I can't recall if Bruce had FRPP heads on his 5.3, nor do I care to dive into the archives to check lol. I want to say they were stock with a port job, but it wouldn't surprise me if he chucked coin for the FRPP's. Not even sure if they're in production anymore. If they aren't, whoever is fortunate enough to have them, may be sitting on gold should they keep them in good shape. I don't think the factory heads will hinder reaching the 500whp mark, so long as they're ported and match the manifold and headers.

The symphony I mentioned was to being purpose built. With a staggering goal of 500whp through a 3v head, everything else has to be hand picked to support making power through that head. From block to internals, choice of intake/manifold/header/exhaust, perhaps a fully custom cam profile, delete as much parasitic drag from the drive belt (custom underdrive, AC delete, P/S delete, electric water pump, slick alternator, and slick idlers). Then you're talking about something that has to rev to the moon, Alice, to the moon. I'm thinking specialized I-beam style rods (can't think of the outfit that makes 'em, they're pricey but lightweight and very strong). Compression will be key too. If I were designing a max-effort NA 3v, damn the pump fuel, this thing has a job to do. Design it to run solely on E-85 or better. Perhaps even a special meth blend. This stuff's gotta run hot, and compression high enough it can't survive on less than 100 octane. Because race car. Several reputable vendors have made 3v manifolds back in the day that were far too short lived. One of them will surely do the trick.

Beyond that, aluminum flywheel and carbon fiber drive shafts should turn light weight wheels and a conservative tires on the dyno rollers. With E-85 keeping combustion temps down, as well as a meth blend increasing air density (via cooling of the air) and adding some extra burn to the fire, such a 3v would be an absolute monster. Even then, the safest bet is to strap 3v heads to the max cubic inch block they'll bolt to and go from there. To my knowledge, that's the 5.3. The 5.4 3v does have more stroke, but the configuration isn't ideal for NA power (being 3.55" bore vs 3.7" bore). It's my opinion that the 5.4 is best suited for power adders, but that's my opinion of all stroker motors.

As for your calculations on the 2v predecessor, 466hp is damn fine for a NA 2v. BruceH has already marked 430whp (485-495hp, adding 12-15% drivetrain loss). So the 2v is still outclassed in the respect, Bruce's engine wasn't purpose built for making NA power, either. He ran a D1SC on it aside from being NA in the end. Pretty sure he was around 9.0-9.5:1 CR as well, running either coyote rods or a forged H beam and all the standard stock trimmings as well (such as the convenience of A/C). His motor didn't even attempt to push the limits. I want to say he was running a Stage 2 Comp Cam as well. While respectable, a custom profile degreed could mean as much as 30-50whp, I'm really not sure without doing all the dry math. The OE 3v heads have some tight limits on cam lift (I think beyond .530 or so is tempting fate depending on the lobe profile and CR). The FRPP's heads are a bit different, coming in with a 1mm bigger intake valve right out of the gate. Not sure what porting gives you, but valve angle is still chancy on a high lift cam. (One of the things that irritate me about flow benching heads, giving that .600" lift reading when there isn't a soul on the planet that has the nuts to put a valve that close to the piston lol. It's CFM you'll never see, but they're letting you know "Hey, if you didn't have valves, this sucker really breathes!" lol).

Finally, I would sooner pluck scrotum hairs out bare handed before I'd put a 2v in a S197. I simply wouldn't give the 2v crowd the satisfaction, or ammo. Even though I have a deep love for the 6.2 2v, and respect for the trickflow 2v, I wouldn't put one in a S197 just the same. If you're gonna do it with a 2v, then it has nothing to do with making NA 3v power, just NA power. At that point, there's better engines available to make gobs of NA power.
 

TheGhostTiger

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I

Finally, I would sooner pluck scrotum hairs out bare handed before I'd put a 2v in a S197. I simply wouldn't give the 2v crowd the satisfaction, or ammo. Even though I have a deep love for the 6.2 2v, and respect for the trickflow 2v, I wouldn't put one in a S197 just the same. If you're gonna do it with a 2v, then it has nothing to do with making NA 3v power, just NA power. At that point, there's better engines available to make gobs of NA power.


Heck no, are you crazy? i'd rather hitchhike through russia on a full bladder in bermuda shorts than do that. i like what i'm hearing about the 3v heads, and i think the FRPP is out of production. Still how hard could it be to simply find someone with a set scan them into a computer and 3d print them? I see all these discontinued parts for the 3v I'm tempted to take the money I'm saving for a home in Vermont and starting a machining business that replicates hard to find parts.

What porting specs would you recommend I port the factory heads? Im happy at 500 to the crankyanker. I just want a canyon carver that feels like Darth Vader's Tie Advanced on an empty highway. i was also wondering what cam specs you should recommend I go with for a safe build? I heard about how those cams needed to be limited, and watching Nate Riders videos doesn't give me much hope.

I also wondered how hard would it be to slap on 4v heads from the 11-14 later years? That should wake up a 5.3 build?

Hope I don't get stuck with cheap Chinese parts when my order comes in. Thanks for the info!!!!
 

Juice

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Well, this thread has gone off the tracks.... OP asked about a Coyote swap, and this discussion went from "its very expensive", easier just to do a 3v. And now we are 3D printing custom 3v heads...... yea, that will cost nothing compared to a junk yard 5.0 that is fully assembled & ready to drop in. o_O
 

Pentalab

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When the Saudi's increase the price of a barrel of oil to $200.00 you will all be trading this stuff in for a Nissan leaf or Prius.
 

Juice

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When the Saudi's increase the price of a barrel of oil to $200.00 you will all be trading this stuff in for a Nissan leaf or Prius.

Not really, it will just make me ride my 'busa more. :) I haven't been riding much lately.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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When the Saudi's increase the price of a barrel of oil to $200.00 you will all be trading this stuff in for a Nissan leaf or Prius.

Won't happen and even if the oil price does reach the dizzy heights of $150 per barrel, there are plenty of other oil producing countries (including the US) that'll take advantage by raising production.

Cranking 500whp NA out of a 3v is a tough goal. I know plenty who sunk bundles into their NA setups just to squeeze 400 NA out of a 281 3v.

Cranking 500rwhp SAE out of a N/A 3V is highly ambitious and I'd give a hero medal to anyone who manages to achieve it. Even if you used the maximum displacement of 326ci, the small 3.70" bore would limit valve size and cylinder filling while the long 3.80" stroke would limit the engine to a maximum of 7900rpm (all forged bottom end and piston speed of 5000ft/min). E85 and a very high compression ratio (12.0+) would be essential to even get close to 500rwhp.
You could probably count those who've achieved 400rwhp SAE from a 281 3V on one hand, and the cost is so high that forced induction on a motor built with forged rods/pistons makes far more sense.
 

702GT

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Heck no, are you crazy? i'd rather hitchhike through russia on a full bladder in bermuda shorts than do that. i like what i'm hearing about the 3v heads, and i think the FRPP is out of production. Still how hard could it be to simply find someone with a set scan them into a computer and 3d print them? I see all these discontinued parts for the 3v I'm tempted to take the money I'm saving for a home in Vermont and starting a machining business that replicates hard to find parts.

What porting specs would you recommend I port the factory heads? Im happy at 500 to the crankyanker. I just want a canyon carver that feels like Darth Vader's Tie Advanced on an empty highway. i was also wondering what cam specs you should recommend I go with for a safe build? I heard about how those cams needed to be limited, and watching Nate Riders videos doesn't give me much hope.

I also wondered how hard would it be to slap on 4v heads from the 11-14 later years? That should wake up a 5.3 build?

Hope I don't get stuck with cheap Chinese parts when my order comes in. Thanks for the info!!!!

You need a specific goal and budget. Making NA power can be done many ways, some more or less complicated, and more or less expensive. You're all over the place with ideas. If you're just after 500 at the crank NA from a 3v head specifically, you probably won't need to take the 5.0 to a 5.3. Just need rods/pistons/stock crank, some head work, and the right combination of parts. Even the coyote rods will do (and they're cheap(er)). For a cam profile, you'd have to talk with whoever is going to work on your heads, so they understand your goals and can put a parts list together for those cams. You'll probably have to lock the cams and degree them.

I wouldn't waste money on opening a machine shop unless you have a passion for it. Making out-of-production parts, while admirable, probably won't sustain the business.
Won't happen and even if the oil price does reach the dizzy heights of $150 per barrel, there are plenty of other oil producing countries (including the US) that'll take advantage by raising production.



Cranking 500rwhp SAE out of a N/A 3V is highly ambitious and I'd give a hero medal to anyone who manages to achieve it. Even if you used the maximum displacement of 326ci, the small 3.70" bore would limit valve size and cylinder filling while the long 3.80" stroke would limit the engine to a maximum of 7900rpm (all forged bottom end and piston speed of 5000ft/min). E85 and a very high compression ratio (12.0+) would be essential to even get close to 500rwhp.
You could probably count those who've achieved 400rwhp SAE from a 281 3V on one hand, and the cost is so high that forced induction on a motor built with forged rods/pistons makes far more sense.

Agreed. FI is the most economical way to make power. This was about marveling at the 'yote ability to make NA power and swapping into a S197. The arguement of whether it was a good idea or not all comes down to which cup of tea you like to sip from. It's all money down the drain for sure. Even the coyote with it's new bump in power just puts it on par with the big bore block and a cam. Putting a coyote in a S197 is simple enough, making it all work like factory is the hard part. It pretty much comes down to the heads, whenever a motor swap is involved, if it's different heads it's going to require patience to wire up. And match accessories. PATS.

500rwhp can be done, it's a matter of how deep is your pocket and are you a spiritual person? Are you a true enthusiast or are you a dreamer? There's certainly better ways to make power, and there's no easy way to make NA power. Had a buddy sink $9k into his 2v motor trying to match me in NA power back in the day, car dyno'd out 327whp@7,000rpm. I made 365whp@6,500rpm with $2k in mine. Heartbreaker, but he was still just a bit faster than me (12.8x vs 12.9x). Ended up swapping his cams and putting a V2SQ on it and made 580whp. Swore he'd never spend money on NA stuff ever again, and hasn't. I had everything I could bolt on to my car for NA power, with the exception of a better set of cams, I think 385whp would have been it's max potential without head work and internals. That last jump to 400whp is a canyon for a 281. In the end all you have to do is think about the money involved, and it's just not worth that 20whp to hit a mark. When I saw a D1SC kit on craigslist for $2k, I got a stiffy and that was the end of the NA dream. Put the engine almost back to fully stock, and made gobs of power for the boost level. Had a set of coyote rods on standby, but never needed them. It seems like the more power you make, the less of its potential you actually use on the street. There's hardly room for a 450whp car to stretch its legs in Vegas. Most of the clowns that do, usually put a lot of people at risk should they fuck up and lose it.

I hope someone does go for the gold star for NA 3v power. It's certainly bragging rights.

Imagine that kind of NA potential with a bottle behind it, just to ruin someones day. You could fill the bottle with mopar tears and spray it on a 'vette.
:troll3:
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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It's certainly easier to build an 11-sec N/A 05-10 GT than it is to get 400rwhp from a 281 3V. That said, only a handful have achieved even that feat with weight reduction, tires, and suspension being the most important items rather than big HP numbers.
 

TheGhostTiger

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You need a specific goal and budget. Making NA power can be done many ways, some more or less complicated, and more or less expensive. You're all over the place with ideas. If you're just after 500 at the crank NA from a 3v head specifically, you probably won't need to take the 5.0 to a 5.3. Just need rods/pistons/stock crank, some head work, and the right combination of parts. Even the coyote rods will do (and they're cheap(er)). For a cam profile, you'd have to talk with whoever is going to work on your heads, so they understand your goals and can put a parts list together for those cams. You'll probably have to lock the cams and degree them.

I wouldn't waste money on opening a machine shop unless you have a passion for it. Making out-of-production parts, while admirable, probably won't sustain the business.


Agreed. FI is the most economical way to make power. This was about marveling at the 'yote ability to make NA power and swapping into a S197. The arguement of whether it was a good idea or not all comes down to which cup of tea you like to sip from. It's all money down the drain for sure. Even the coyote with it's new bump in power just puts it on par with the big bore block and a cam. Putting a coyote in a S197 is simple enough, making it all work like factory is the hard part. It pretty much comes down to the heads, whenever a motor swap is involved, if it's different heads it's going to require patience to wire up. And match accessories. PATS.

500rwhp can be done, it's a matter of how deep is your pocket and are you a spiritual person? Are you a true enthusiast or are you a dreamer? There's certainly better ways to make power, and there's no easy way to make NA power. Had a buddy sink $9k into his 2v motor trying to match me in NA power back in the day, car dyno'd out 327whp@7,000rpm. I made 365whp@6,500rpm with $2k in mine. Heartbreaker, but he was still just a bit faster than me (12.8x vs 12.9x). Ended up swapping his cams and putting a V2SQ on it and made 580whp. Swore he'd never spend money on NA stuff ever again, and hasn't. I had everything I could bolt on to my car for NA power, with the exception of a better set of cams, I think 385whp would have been it's max potential without head work and internals. That last jump to 400whp is a canyon for a 281. In the end all you have to do is think about the money involved, and it's just not worth that 20whp to hit a mark. When I saw a D1SC kit on craigslist for $2k, I got a stiffy and that was the end of the NA dream. Put the engine almost back to fully stock, and made gobs of power for the boost level. Had a set of coyote rods on standby, but never needed them. It seems like the more power you make, the less of its potential you actually use on the street. There's hardly room for a 450whp car to stretch its legs in Vegas. Most of the clowns that do, usually put a lot of people at risk should they fuck up and lose it.

I hope someone does go for the gold star for NA 3v power. It's certainly bragging rights.

Imagine that kind of NA potential with a bottle behind it, just to ruin someones day. You could fill the bottle with mopar tears and spray it on a 'vette.
:troll3:
thanks for all the great information guys
 
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TheGhostTiger

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Meh, Im just gonna stroke her to 302 with some good forged internals, and slap on a centri. I am now in the process of researching how to reduce weight from the front end. Aftermarket harness?? im new forgive me!!!!

Im too lazy to quote but I want a machine shop because I want to design aftermarket cylinder blocks that improve factory limitations. How come nobody ever discusses the idea of a 350 ci mod motor than can be bored and stroked to hell like a Russian pornstar?

It seems I could easily build a cnc machine in my backyard and take a few courses on CAD. Have we lost our American sense of ingenuity?

Anyone? Im tired of those Chevy guys with their gobs of build-able torque and I need a hairdryer to go fast. Anyway first world problems I guess.

Thanks guys!!!
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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The problem with the 4.6L Mod motor is that the bore spacing doesn't allow more than a +0.040" overbore so that limits displacement to a maximum of 308ci or 5048cc with a 3.80" stroker crank. The cylinders in the Boss iron block have a 3.70" bore so that takes displacement up to 327ci or 5356cc with the same crank. Overbore that block by 0.040" and you'll have a displacement of 334ci or 5473cc (5.5L), and that really is taking a Mod V8 motor to the limit.
You can reduce front end weight by not using the Boss iron block (adds 65lb) and by using lighter weight components such as a tubular K-member, tubular A-arms, tubular radiator support with front sway bar delete, and lighter wheels.
 
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Norm Peterson

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Meh, Im just gonna stroke her to 302 with some good forged internals, and slap on a centri. I am now in the process of researching how to reduce weight from the front end. Aftermarket harness?? im new forgive me!!!!

Im too lazy to quote but I want a machine shop because I want to design aftermarket cylinder blocks that improve factory limitations. How come nobody ever discusses the idea of a 350 ci mod motor than can be bored and stroked to hell like a Russian pornstar?

It seems I could easily build a cnc machine in my backyard and take a few courses on CAD. Have we lost our American sense of ingenuity?
Like Dino said, Ford's factory limits are going to limit you just as severely as they've limited Ford's own displacement choices. The modular engine series is really an early 1980's design, back when 225 HP was a lot. As you know, its smallish displacement isn't the hot tip for big NA power at reasonable rpms, and its basically 'square' ratio of bore to stroke doesn't do high-rpm power any favors either.

As far as I'm concerned, the mod-motor's 4.6L displacement already constitutes a "stroker motor", given that a 3.55-ish bore built for high-RPM NA power is really better suited for use with a 3" stroke (with ~4.0L being the resulting displacement). It'd be a narrower, less tall, and slightly lighter engine at 4.0L as well.

You'd have to invest in your own block casting facility as well, unless you were going to simply start with aluminum versions of anybody's block and build up or adapt a set of DOHC 4-valve heads to that. Sorry, the Coyote and Voodoo heads are still stuck with the mod-motor's less-than-4" bore centers, so they'd be out from the get-go.


Norm
 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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I can't recall if Bruce had FRPP heads on his 5.3, nor do I care to dive into the archives to check lol. I want to say they were stock with a port job, but it wouldn't surprise me if he chucked coin for the FRPP's. Not even sure if they're in production anymore. If they aren't, whoever is fortunate enough to have them, may be sitting on gold should they keep them in good shape. I don't think the factory heads will hinder reaching the 500whp mark, so long as they're ported and match the manifold and headers.

Here ya go:

Big Bore block. 3.701 x 3.750 = 323 cubic inches
12:1 compression
FRPP cnc heads that are supposed to flow 273 cfm at .500" lift
Livernois stage 3 blower cams
FRPP intake with 62mm tb
Mac LT headers, high flow cats
C&L racer cai
438/389 rwhp/tq with E85BBB 323 Stroker E85.jpg

That's still 62rwhp short of the 500rwhp mark despite being a high compression stroker with HCI. Finding it would be a very difficult task and the biggest limitation is cylinder head flow. A CNC ported 3V head just can't flow enough air to feed a 323ci motor that would need to spin to the minimum 7500rpm that would be required to produce 500rwhp.
 

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Cyprus
It isn't just the heads. The intake manifold runners also have to at least match the head flow numbers, and the cams have enough duration/lift to maximize cylinder filling. Then there's also the exhaust and you'd probably require custom headers.
By the time you've sunk well over $10k into building a 500rwhp N/A 326ci stroker that'll feel soggy below 2500rpm, you might as well spend half as much and get 500rwhp out of a FI 281ci with forged pistons/rods. It'll also rip tree stumps out of the ground at 2500rpm unlike a 500rwhp N/A stroker.
Then again, MMFF might be willing to sponsor you to build that stroker and have it custom dyno tuned if it'll feature in their magazine.
 

Marble

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I know the aluminum blocks are not available brand new, but if you have an engine shop near you they have in inventories they can search and find used blocks. That's what I did. The guy who built my motor found a wrecked 2006. The plane pulled the motor and stopped it to the short block including thr oil pan. It was shipped to the shop door for less than $500.

The engine shop put the block in to some machine to check the block for damage prior to building. So it should be good to go.
 

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