Tapping sound

[Mustang10sc]

I have a 2010 Mustang 3valve. There was a rattle sound when I would start the engine so I went ahead and purchased a timing set, also there was a faint tapping sound that would come and go. I installed the new timing set and my car ran better than it had when I purchased it. The faint tapping sound came back a couple thousand miles later and increasingly got worse. It’s coming from the rear passenger side head. I took it to a shop and they said it was the roller followers and lash adjusters. They installed them and the tapping is still present. They told me they thought it was piston slap but I read that piston slap decreases when the engine is warm. My car doesn’t tap at idle, it starts around 1700 rpm and increases with the rpms. It’s a strange sounding tick. They did show me a picture of the cam journals and they were worn a good bit. Would worn out cam journals cause such a sound? I’ve spent hours reading and watching videos and the only video that I saw that sounded really similar to my engine, was on a coyote and the imrcv flaps were loose in the intake, and rattling. Is this a possibility? I change the oil like I’m supposed to but I bought the car with 155000 miles on it and now it has 175000. I don’t know how well it was maintained before I purchased it, but the heads are very clean looking. Also I’m not getting any codes. Thanks for any help, this is my daily driver and I really need to get it fixed very soon.

 

[Mustang10sc]

I tried uploading a video of it from my phone but it isn’t letting me, I’ll see if I can figure it out.

 

[Mustang10sc]

 

[Miker]

The frequency of that tapping noise seems way too fast for it to be related to the rotation of the cams or the actuating of the lifters. Almost sounds like an electrical arcing. Stick something like a long screwdriver against the engine with it up to your ear and see if you can get a specific location where the sound is the loudest.

 

[Mustang10sc]

Ok so I just stuck the screwdriver all over the valve covers, near the cam phasers, on the coil packs and injectors, everything sounded normal. I stuck it on the intake manifold and could hear a faint tick. I stuck it to the white piece that flips the imrc on the back of the intake, it matched the sound perfectly. I flipped the imrc manually and the sound no longer came off of that piece but it did quieten down to the ear. I’ve changed the spark plugs and coil packs as well to make sure it wasn’t arcing. I also ran the car without the serpentine belt to make sure it wasn’t a pulley.

 

[moooosestang]

That's a weird sound. The good news is it doesn't sound expensive, the bad is it might be hard to nail down. I'd get some delete plates for the imrc. it could very well be one of those plates fluttering.

 

[GriffX]

AFAIK the 2010 3V intake manifold was modified with build-in imrc flaps? The sound reminds me of broken intake flaps from Mercedes manifolds. I would remove it and look inside.

 

[MrBhp]

Sounds like something loose trying to find its way to the outside world. I would have to pull the valve covers to check the work that's been performed. Make sure there is not a lost valve keeper bouncing around. If everything looks fine on the topside, I would check the timing components again. If you used aftermarket parts in that area, take a good look at all of it. Also make sure a phaser isn't going errant. Hopefully it isn't any of these things and just something simple.

 

[Mustang10sc]

I will take a look, I used all ford motor craft components. Thanks and I’ll let you guys know if I find anything.

 

[Mustang10sc]

I took the intake manifold off, none of the imrc flaps were broken but they were really dirty. One, nearest to the front of the engine, wiggles a good bit when I have them opened. I cleaned them up and also took a look inside the ports and none of the valves appear to be bent, atleast what I could see of them. I installed everything and the noise didn’t change any. Is it normal for the rod that goes through the imrcs to slide back and forth a little bit? I’m still puzzled. The noise does get a little louder once the engine warms up. But thanks to time change and my schedule, it’ll probably be next weekend before I can take the valve cover off and look around. Also, MrBhp, what do you mean by a cam phaser going errant? Thanks for y’all’s help so far, hopefully I can get it figured out soon. I’ll update when I get the valve cover off and look around.

 

[moooosestang]

I took the intake manifold off, none of the imrc flaps were broken but they were really dirty. One, nearest to the front of the engine, wiggles a good bit when I have them opened. I cleaned them up and also took a look inside the ports and none of the valves appear to be bent, atleast what I could see of them. I installed everything and the noise didn’t change any. Is it normal for the rod that goes through the imrcs to slide back and forth a little bit? I’m still puzzled. The noise does get a little louder once the engine warms up. But thanks to time change and my schedule, it’ll probably be next weekend before I can take the valve cover off and look around. Also, MrBhp, what do you mean by a cam phaser going errant? Thanks for y’all’s help so far, hopefully I can get it figured out soon. I’ll update when I get the valve cover off and look around.

Well the rod for the Charge motion plates on the 2006 had some wiggle to it. Were any of the timing chain guides broken when you replace them?

 

[Mustang10sc]

So it’s been raining here all weekend and I don’t have a shop. I only had a few minutes today to look at my car. I haven’t had a chance to remove the valve cover yet but I had someone hold it at 1700 rpms and it was ticking pretty good. I unplugged the fuel injector for cylinder 4 and the tapping stopped. I plugged it back in and the tapping came back, I unplugged the coil pack and the tapping went away, and came back when I plugged it back in. Does this point to anything? As I said before, the tapping does get a little worse as the motor warms up. Hopefully I’ll be able to get the valve cover off and take a look next weekend, by the time I get home from work, it’s dark outside.

 

[MrBhp]

That blows. Piston pin. Maybe rod bearing. Loose rod cap.

 

[Mustang10sc]

That was my fear, do you know of anyone that offers stock crate engines for these cars? I can’t find any online except built engines and I can’t afford that. I really don’t have any good mechanics near me that I would trust to rebuild the engine.

 

[Mustang10sc]

Quick question, I found an engine from an 05 with 100k miles. I know the computer has a different code than mine but that shouldn't matter should it? I’m assuming my tuner should still work. Also, is all the sensors and everything the same? Thanks. My plan is to rebuild my original engine.

 

[GriffX]

I would not give up hope and take off the valve cover. If you have luck, it is a timing issue due to a broken roller follower.

 

[Mustang10sc]

It has new roller followers and lash adjusters on it and the sound is the same.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Quick question, I found an engine from an 05 with 100k miles. I know the computer has a different code than mine but that shouldn't matter should it? I’m assuming my tuner should still work. Also, is all the sensors and everything the same? Thanks. My plan is to rebuild my original engine.

The '05 short block is the same but the heads use the earlier style 16mm spark plugs. Therefore you'd also need the earlier style black coil boots to match. Otherwise you could bolt on your '10 intake manifold plus your other existing ancillaries.
That said, I suggest you pull the oil pan on your original engine and inspect the rod cap, rod bearings, the rod itself (in case it's bent), the piston, and the cylinder wall on no.4. If there's an easy fix, you're better off sticking with the original engine and keep the other as a spare.

 

[Mustang10sc]

I got you, the engine I’m buying is a complete engine intake and all so if I were to put that in the car, I shouldn’t need to change anything correct? This is my daily driver and I’m in a tough situation and I have to get it back on the road. I’m at the point that I’m tired of messing with this engine in the car, I’d rather put the other engine in and then diagnose the original one. It has 175000 miles on it so I plan on rebuilding it.

 

[cavero]

That was my fear, do you know of anyone that offers stock crate engines for these cars? I can’t find any online except built engines and I can’t afford that. I really don’t have any good mechanics near me that I would trust to rebuild the engine.

I'm dealing with a rebuild situation too and one of the options my mechanic offered was to use a rebuilt engine by an outfit called Jasper. They come with a 100k warranty