Ticking/Tapping noise when warm

[WilliamB170]

I’m sure this may have been discussed before, but new to 3v’s so wanted to ask anyways-

I have a 2010 gt with 167k on the odometer

the car runs completely fine, no rough idle or acceleration.

When starting up, the car sounds normal. Its only when the car gets to full idle temp, I can hear a tapping noise (not the injectors). I’ve used a mechanics stethoscope and have not been able to locate any difference in noise. The noise is audible in the car, and underneath/in wheel well. When I press the gas to about 1500 rpm I can no longer hear it but it comes back immediately when it drops.

I have to assume this is oil pressure related due to this, and have seen that this could be vct knock which is normal if its only when warm and does not follow rpm. Is there any way I can open the engine up to make sure of this?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

That sounds to me like a bad cam phaser.
When the engine's cold and the oil is at its thickest, a bad phaser may not make any noise at all because there's sufficient oil pressure. Phaser knock typically manifests itself at hot idle and low rpm where the oil pressure is at its lowest.
If you can localize which side it's coming from, I'd suggest you pull the valve cover and inspect the cam phaser. At 167k miles, the engine's already overdue for a complete refurb of the cam timing system and replacement of cam followers/lash adjusters. Once into this job, I also recommend replacing the oil pump and the valve stem oil seals. The engine should then run reliably for at least another 100k miles.

 

[WilliamB170]

That sounds to me like a bad cam phaser.
When the engine's cold and the oil is at its thickest, a bad phaser may not make any noise at all because there's sufficient oil pressure. Phaser knock typically manifests itself at hot idle and low rpm where the oil pressure is at its lowest.
If you can localize which side it's coming from, I'd suggest you pull the valve cover and inspect the cam phaser. At 167k miles, the engine's already overdue for a complete refurb of the cam timing system and replacement of cam followers/lash adjusters. Once into this job, I also recommend replacing the oil pump and the valve stem oil seals. The engine should then run reliably for at least another 100k miles.

Agreed, and thank you for the response. Do you recommend tackling this myself? I’ve heard the lash adjusters/followers can be quite tedious and easy to mess up and cause damage to the car. I’m up for the challenge, but don’t want to dig myself in a hole lol.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

It depends on your skill level, how much time/patience you have, if you have the correct tools, and whether you're quite happy being bent over the fenders/front panel for hours to do the job. Having a second person to lend a hand does make the job easier. Otherwise you'd need to pay a garage to do it, and you probably won't have any change out of a grand in labor charges. Therefore it's probably worth learning how to DIY and get a workshop manual to guide you.
If you're going to do a full timing job anyway, It's easier to remove the cams altogether to gain good access to the cam followers/lash adjusters. It'll also make it easier to replace the valve stem oil seals. For that, you'd need this valve spring removal tool:

Valve spring removal tool - buy this one not that one

So I'm chasing a ticking noise in my 2010 4.6 3v. One thing lead to another, and I ended up doing a complete laundry list of parts (timing chains, phasers, rockers, lifters, new timing cover). I just got done installing new valve seals, and I tested each valve spring for proper pressure while I...

www.s197forum.com

plus a length of rope to push down the spark plug hole into the cylinder to prevent the valves from dropping down.