Trouble with steering rack

LeTont

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I recently got a really nice 4.6 2009 3v that was fitted with 5.4 internals and a bunch of other stuff. I love the car but the suspension was lacking and I've had a couple alignments to not much success, and I have since replaced the whole tie rod assemblys, the rear upper control arm, and tried to adjust the pinion angle on jacks because no shop near me even knows what that is. I'm going to tackle one problem at a time so I would like to fix the movement of my power steering rack. I get slop in the middle and going over bumps is scary, the car is not safe to drive because of this. I can't seem to find anything about replacing bushings on a s197 and I read somewhere that it bolts straight to the k member. I can't tighten the bolts any more to keep it in place and it still moves. Am I missing anything. Does anyone know what I could do here, please! I want to get this thing back on the road already.
 

07 Boss

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Wait, the whole rack moves back and forth on the K-member or there is slop in the rack itself?
 

07 Boss

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Well you need to remove the rack to see what is going on. I have a feeling you will either need a new K-member to bolt the rack to or a new rack. There are only a couple of bolts that hold the rack to the sub-frame so you have to have some kind of failure at one or both of those spots.
 

LeTont

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Ugh I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that. I just can't understand how both bolts are tight and it's wiggling. Sucks too because this is my college car I'll have to tear it apart this weekend. Thank you.
 

LeTont

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Well you need to remove the rack to see what is going on. I have a feeling you will either need a new K-member to bolt the rack to or a new rack. There are only a couple of bolts that hold the rack to the sub-frame so you have to have some kind of failure at one or both of those spots.
Hey I'm not able to get it off. Bolts are stuck even with the air impact.
 

07 Boss

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Well that sucks. Are they not budging? Maybe the rack banging back and forth damaged the bolts. Couldn't tell you what to do from here except apply heat or cutting. If it was me I would end up dropping the whole front end and K-member out to get better access but that is a chore in itself. I might even take it somewhere and pay someone to deal with it. But that's me.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Forgive me if I'm being stupid, but the hex on the bottom is welded to the k-member. It won't move. The bolts must be installed and removed from the top.

Maybe try tightening the bolts on top of the rack. I had to use a ratcheting box end wrench. Again, I apologize if I'm being stupid.
 

07 Boss

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Forgive me if I'm being stupid, but the hex on the bottom is welded to the k-member. It won't move. The bolts must be installed and removed from the top.

Maybe try tightening the bolts on top of the rack. I had to use a ratcheting box end wrench. Again, I apologize if I'm being stupid.
I may be retarded. That would explain it. I'll try from the top tomorrow n tell you how it goes. Thank you.


LOL. I just assumed that we were wrenching on the bolt and not the welded nut. Good news is that it may be the solution to your rack moving.
 

VGMStudios

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Just some FYI. You don't need an adjustable rear UCA if your car is not lower than 2". I went through all this myself and did hours of research. I even went through the whole "fixing the pinion angle" when it wasn't necessary. If you are less than 2" just get a Roush UCA since they are better than OEM. Just my 2 cents.
Oh and for the steering rack. If yours is no good anymore you do have the option to put in a Electronic one from a 2010. That's what I did. My car is a 06 GT.
I have also attached a link for you. Hope it helps.
There are 4 pages and it has the tourque settings as well.
 

LeTont

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Thank you, if I ever need to replace the rack I'll come back for that link. And the adjustable uca came with the car, and it's pretty damn low. I had to make my own bolt and spacers assembly to attach the heim joints of the uca to the plate that attaches under the seats. I am having a problem where even if I use a nylon lock nut it still wiggles out and I end up getting wiggle room that makes a horrible banging noise. I'll definitely check out those torque settings also, thank you.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Torque the 2 steering rack bolts to 85 ft-lbs each.
Depending on the k-member, it may use a 1/2" bolt and separate self-locking nut that you have to prevent from turning when tightening to torque.
 

07 Boss

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Thank you, if I ever need to replace the rack I'll come back for that link. And the adjustable uca came with the car, and it's pretty damn low. I had to make my own bolt and spacers assembly to attach the heim joints of the uca to the plate that attaches under the seats. I am having a problem where even if I use a nylon lock nut it still wiggles out and I end up getting wiggle room that makes a horrible banging noise. I'll definitely check out those torque settings also, thank you.

That's because the bolt is smaller than the hole and it will always wiggle. Someone out there makes some inserts or shims to fix this but I cant remember who. Maybe Steeda or BMR.
 

LeTont

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Thanks everyone! It was a problem with me being stupid, the bolt comes in from the top and I was trying to tighten the two welded nuts from the bottom. All good now. I went to take my car off the ramps and checked the fluid levels when I got it down and saw it wouldn't hold coolant. Then discovered a freeze plug had blown for some reason . Now I have to remove half my engine bay and the exhaust to replace that. Does the pain end, or does it merely transform.
 

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