UPR Oil Separator Install Pix

Wheelman

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I recently finished the install of the UPR oil separator kit.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/05...aerospace-racing-billet-catch-can-kit-p-22309
Had to get 10AN elbows because for some stupid reason the kit is sent with hose and connectors that are 8AN for the passenger side which is the INTAKE side which does me no good to trap blow-by oil. I bought the good stuff from Henry's Engineering. They mail order if interested. 410 535-3142 ask for Wayne. Henry's Engineering Company specializes in Aeroquip Performance Products (Hoses, Fittings, Adapters & Couplings) for racecar applications. They are located in MD., pretty close to me, but mail order all over the country. They don't have a specific "kit" but can put together pretty much anything you may need to hook up any performance parts on just about any car fron John Force's dragster to Mom's grocery getter. I'm just another customer.

For those not aware of the long term ill effects of blow-by read up...
http://www.imboc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168981

INSTALLATION TIP- These are pretty heavy duty hoses. Used also for construction equipment in hydraulic lines so it's very stiff and not pliable. To effectively install these lines with ease you should first clamp the connector in a bench vice.(Put a piece of cardboard around the connector so you don't ruin the finish)
Then grab a 20 oz. coffee cup. Fill the cup 3/4's full with water and microwave for 90 seconds.
Then dip the end of the hose into the hot water for three minutes. While the hose is soaking take some oil and apply on the connector. When you start pushing the hose on, wrap a paper towel around the hose for a sure grip, then when you start pushing it on DON'T STOP until it's all the way on. Works like a champ!
After that the only way that hose is coming off is to cut it off.

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CataclysmGT

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My fuel lines for the Lethal Triple system were a bitch to get on. We should have heated them, but even with luberplate they still just made it over the 2nd barb. No way a couple of them were getting to the shoulder...so screw it.

Set-up looks good, overkill, but good.
 

SteveP

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Nice. I bought the same one but realized i needed a vented one so I went with the Moroso oil catch can. Even trade for it
 

TurboPete

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I dont think you have that connected correctly . You need to cap off the intake line and run a hose to the Passenger side valve cover. The other thing is the can needs to be vented or you have to vent the oil filler cap . If its completely sealed your going to push out the main seals.

Pete
 

SoundGuyDave

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I'm pretty sure that's a SEPARATOR, and not a CATCH CAN. If it is indeed a separator, you do NOT want it vented, as that would cause a vacuum leak...

Set up that way, it becomes part of the PCV circuit, and simply pulls the oil vapor out of suspension with the crankcase gasses that are being routed back to the intake.
 

Wheelman

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I dont think you have that connected correctly . You need to cap off the intake line and run a hose to the Passenger side valve cover. The other thing is the can needs to be vented or you have to vent the oil filler cap . If its completely sealed your going to push out the main seals.

Pete

It's connected properly. This can simply replaces the stock "pcv tube" which you should know owning an S197, connects the "exhaust side" engines valve cover to the plenum. These cars do not have a PCV valve but instead incorporate an oil diffuser under the drivers side valve cover to keep oil away from the "PCV tube"...but it does a very poor job. So we install a catch can to "catch" the spewing oil. It's a closed system. I don't have any idea why you think it needs to be vented. The stock PCV tube I removed isn't vented. It's just a tube with a plastic fitting on each end to connect between the valve cover and plenum right where you see the two hoses connect in my picture.

Here are just a couple examples of other S197 owners with same set-up
OilCatch11.jpg

UPRInstall3.jpg
 
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SteveP

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It's connected properly. This can simply replaces the stock "pcv tube" which you should know owning an S197, connects the "exhaust side" engines valve cover to the plenum. These cars do not have a PCV valve but instead incorporate an oil diffuser under the drivers side valve cover to keep oil away from the "PCV tube"...but it does a very poor job. So we install a catch can to "catch" the spewing oil. It's a closed system. I don't have any idea why you think it needs to be vented. The stock PCV tube I removed isn't vented. It's just a tube with a plastic fitting on each end to connect between the valve cover and plenum right where you see the two hoses connect in my picture.

He's right but more so with a blown car. On a N/A car, a oil separator like this one, will do the trick just fine. On a boosted car like mine, you need to vent it because of the pressure going on under those valve covers. Course you will need to re-tune because the air mixture is gonna be different but worth it in the end
 

bigray327

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Here's mine. There's a thread about it already somewhere. Note: I had to shorten that 5/16" hose to about an inch, because it was collapsing, even under idle.

I'm thinking about going to a vented catch can, so if anyone wants to buy this, PM me an offer.

UPRcatchcan02.jpg
 
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Wheelman

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He's right but more so with a blown car. On a N/A car, a oil separator like this one, will do the trick just fine. On a boosted car like mine, you need to vent it because of the pressure going on under those valve covers.

I don't think so. There are plenty of guys with blowers running this set-up without being vented as the top picture, he's got a Vortec. But don't take my word. Just ask the other motorheads at Allfordmustangs.com or Moddedmustangs.com. They'll be as puzzled as I am with you guys. But hey...I don't know it all. We're all here to learn from each other. I just know a few of us bought the oil cap vent and it spewed oil all over the motor and belts. OK for racing but not a DD.
 

ROUSH1711

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I dont like it.From the location
to the all those worm clamps.
Of course, this is my opinion.
 

ROUSH1711

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I don't think so. There are plenty of guys with blowers running this set-up without being vented as the top picture, he's got a Vortec. But don't take my word. Just ask the other motorheads at Allfordmustangs.com or Moddedmustangs.com. They'll be as puzzled as I am with you guys. But hey...I don't know it all. We're all here to learn from each other. I just know a few of us bought the oil cap vent and it spewed oil all over the motor and belts. OK for racing but not a DD.


Bro,if people like it,it will sell...no worries.
 

SoundGuyDave

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Lethal calls it a catch can.
And if Lethal called it a turbocharger, would that make it one? Seriously, if you look at the product pix, there is a separator screen built into the inlet and outlet sides of the top, and the balance is there to take the oil that is knocked out of suspension in the crankcase gasses flowing through the can. This is functionally identical to the Stef's separator that I run. A true catch can is essentially there for overflow purposes. You'll notice that most catch cans are inlet-only designs, and if they have an outlet, it's usually either a breather element, or designed to feed a vacuum pump inlet.

Here's the tech skinny: The separator, as set up by the OP, merely acts as filter in the PCV system, which MUST be a sealed system. If you run a "vented catch can" in place of his separator, all you do is create a vacuum leak right at the nipple on the manifold behind the throttle body.

There are good arguments for deleting the PCV setup on boosted motors, but the plumbing is completely different. The PCV nipple on the manifold is plugged, as is the nipple on the intake tube, and both valve covers are plumbed to vented catch cans. If you run a PCV delete setup, you won't have any vacuum leak, so your tune will remain stable. If you add a separator to the PCV circuit, you won't have a vacuum leak, and your tune will remain stable. If you plumb a vented can into the PCV circuit, you'll have a vacuum leak, by allowing air to enter the intake manifold without going through the MAF to be accounted for. If you want to simulate what would happen with a vented can inline with the PCV setup, just idle the car, and take your oil cap off. The PCV circuit is designed to pull crankcase gasses out of the engine through the driver's side valve cover, which feeds vacuum at the intake manifold nipple. To keep this stable, air (which is filtered and accounted for by the MAF) is routed from the intake tube to the passenger's side valve cover. If you just plug the driver's side nipple on the manifold, then the crankcase pressure from blowby and heat will force gasses out both sides, and dump that crap upstream of the throttle body, but after the MAF, and that's bad on MANY levels. You need to run both, or plug both. Any other variation will cause tune issues, and will be less than optimal. IMO, running the PCV circuit through a filter (air/oil separator) will provide the crankcase evacuation that we need, and still keep the recirculated gasses getting to the manifold a lot cleaner than with the stock PCV setup. I drain around 1oz or so per month out of mine, and if the separator wasn't there, it would all be dumped right in the intake.

oilsep2.jpg
 

SoundGuyDave

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While it isn't a Mustang, this is a properly done PCV delete, using vented catch cans. Note that each valve cover feeds a catch can, and the pressure is vented out of the top of the can through the breather filter...

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