What can you do to help fdjizm hook? Hydraulic launch control?

[fdjizm]

Yo what's up bromo's.. I was at a rental recently. Couldn't hook for shit unless I slipped the clutch out.
The car just shocks the tires and I'm not good at slipping, so I found this wonderful device online that may be a big help for me! I've seen a few vids on youtube and this thing seems to work like a champ, anybody have experience with one? I know it may be a bitch dialing it in but that is what rentals are for!

https://www.maperformance.com/produ...ntrol-device-for-manual-transmission-vehicles

The way my day went... 3k dump = spin, 3.5k dump = spin, 4k dump = spin, 6.5k clutch slip = hook and go!?
Here is a vid of when I slipped the clutch (lucky perfect slip) instead of dumping it.
I think the suspension & tire pressure are working out. I want to do that and better EVERY. FUCKIN. TIME.

 

[07 Boss]

Have you ever plotted your suspension? I'm wondering if you could use some more anti-squat % added. The video angle was not that good but it looked like the rear of the car dropped pretty substantially when you launched.

 

[tjm73]

http://clutchtamer.com/

Similar idea. Cheaper. Mechanical

 

[fdjizm]

Have you ever plotted your suspension? I'm wondering if you could use some more anti-squat % added. The video angle was not that good but it looked like the rear of the car dropped pretty substantially when you launched.

Last time I check I was around 90-92% anti-squat, the video is a bit grainy I have the original and it does drop a bit but if you look at the wheel well the body doesn't come down. Pressure was around 18psi there.

http://clutchtamer.com/

Similar idea. Cheaper. Mechanical

Hmm, looks like I may have to rig that and very funny looking after installed.

 

[Marble]

What were the numbers for the run?

And what is the set up?

And the power level and weight of car.



I was able to get 1.48-1.50 60'.
Mcleod clutch
560 rwhp
ET streets
3880 lbs

 

[fdjizm]

What were the numbers for the run?

And what is the set up?

And the power level and weight of car.



I was able to get 1.48-1.50 60'.
Mcleod clutch
560 rwhp
ET streets
3880 lbs

That was a 12.3, best run ever was 11.99 launching at 6250 with a 1.64 60' with the stock clutch and the old 3650 with 4.10's.
LCA relocation brackets (middle hole), UCA, adjustable strange shocks all around, spool, 4.30's, hoosier QTP 11x5.
New t56 magnum with an exedy mach 400 that likes to drag a bit. 3500 with me in it.
335rwhp/323tq

 

[RocketcarX]

Are you on a bias ply slick?

 

[fdjizm]

Are you on a bias ply slick?

Yes, the QTPs are bias ply.

 

[eighty6gt]

How many psi

 

[Marble]

A few things that stand out are the gear ratios difference between the two transmissions and a dragging clutch. Not sure what dragging means...

Lastly, it looks like there is a great "bite" off the line and then an unsettling of the suspension. Checking your geometry and making sure they point to the correct location (upper and lower arms) and then work on shock settings.

A slow video of the wheels on launch, through the 60' will tell you where you are lookil time.

Things to consider:

Track prep and conditions. Speak with others at the track and see what their impression is of the track. They might be slower or faster etc.

Condition of clutch

Age/wear on tires

 

[fdjizm]

How many psi

17 psi cold, any less and I slam the rim into the ground on launch.

A few things that stand out are the gear ratios difference between the two transmissions and a dragging clutch. Not sure what dragging means...

Lastly, it looks like there is a great "bite" off the line and then an unsettling of the suspension. Checking your geometry and making sure they point to the correct location (upper and lower arms) and then work on shock settings.

A slow video of the wheels on launch, through the 60' will tell you where you are lookil time.

Things to consider:

Track prep and conditions. Speak with others at the track and see what their impression is of the track. They might be slower or faster etc.

Condition of clutch

Age/wear on tires

Well the clutch had some drag like when I push it to the floor and push towards first the car moves a bit, like it's never fully releasing?
It's a brand new clutch, got it installed in November with the magnum.
What adjustments would you recommend to keep the "bite" after the initial hit? I don't have that grip when dropping the clutch it just instantly spins like I'm in the burnout box.
By unsettling you mean it's unloading? I can try and adjust the front shocks so they don't extend as easily that may keep the ass down longer?

 

[tjm73]

Hmm, looks like I may have to rig that and very funny looking after installed.

I just bought a TKO600 for my 331 foxbody. I'm looking at clutches and I may try this next year if it seems I need it after this season..

 

[07 Boss]

I might look at the rear shocks first. By what you are describing with the instant spin and the flattening of the tire on launch, could be that your extension on the rear may be too tight.i have an auto but I run my QTP's at about 14 psi cold. When I get to the track I lower it to 14.5 and then wait for them to cool down. Then I adjust from there depending on how the track is. I've run them down as low as 12 psi but then tire begins to move on the rim a bit. I think 18 is too high for the Hoosiers. I used to run my DR's at 18. Anyways I always follow a couple of general rules when setting shocks.

1. Determine which pair of shocks to adjust first. If the car wheelstands excessively or bounces on the gear change, adjust the front shocks first. If the car rattles the rear tires, wheel hops, or has way too much body separation, adjust the rear shocks first.

2. When adjusting front shocks, the idea is to get a smooth transition in the car’s front end movement from launch through the first gear change. Bouncing and jerking motions don’t help the launch and will hurt elapsed times. If the car is violent on the launch and physically jerks the front wheels off the ground, the shock extension setting is too soft or loose. Be careful—if you go too stiff on the extension setting, the front won’t move upward sufficiently to transfer weight and the car will bounce on the tires after the launch.

If the car bounces on the gear change, the shock compression needs to be stiffer. When the car bounces on the gear change, it’s coming down on the front suspension travel limiter and then bouncing back up again.

3. When adjusting the rear shocks, the idea is to force the rear tires onto the track surface as hard as possible (track conditions permitting). Keep in mind the shocks are what actually control how much force or “hit” you’re applying to the tires. If the shocks are too loose on the extension, you might get way too much rear body separation. If the shocks are too stiff, the car will flatten the tire excessively or simply spin them.

Yes I copy and pasted but it's a lot of info to type. But it is pretty good as it doesn't get into too much technical info, just some basic rules to follow.

 

[fdjizm]

Good info, thanks! I need another rental to mess around with all that lol.
I tried with the clicks all the way down to 3 and I still get that instant spin action. I wish i could lower the PSI more but this is what happens when i do that...

 

[RocketcarX]

I have been told since day 1 (BMR says this every time) that a stick car need the Viking double adjustable shocks.
You want the front to be slow to settle and stay up as long as possible, this keep the weight on the rear tires. In the drag would they refer to it as "slowing the front end down".
You should need to drag launch at 5-6k RPM for two reasons mainly, wheel speed and tire slippage. Maximum traction comes at 25% slip, the tires need to be fighting for traction off the line, at the very edge blowing the tires off.

 

[Sky Render]

I know how to tune cars for handling, not drag racing. This thread is fascinating.

 

[RocketcarX]

How old are your slicks?

 

[fdjizm]

How old are your slicks?

Bout a a year and a half I think, maybe time for a new set but hooked pretty hard when I slipped the clutch.
I don't see any dry rubber or cracking, still very soft and sticky to the touch.

I have been told since day 1 (BMR says this every time) that a stick car need the Viking double adjustable shocks.
You want the front to be slow to settle and stay up as long as possible, this keep the weight on the rear tires. In the drag would they refer to it as "slowing the front end down".
You should need to drag launch at 5-6k RPM for two reasons mainly, wheel speed and tire slippage. Maximum traction comes at 25% slip, the tires need to be fighting for traction off the line, at the very edge blowing the tires off.

Yea my fronts are pretty loose at 0 or 2 clicks. I just can't get over the instant spin, and when I say instant I mean the body of the car hasn't even moved yet.

 

[RocketcarX]

Bout a a year and a half I think, maybe time for a new set but hooked pretty hard when I slipped the clutch.
I don't see any dry rubber or cracking, still very soft and sticky to the touch.

Yea my fronts are pretty loose at 0 or 2 clicks. I just can't get over the instant spin, and when I say instant I mean the body of the car hasn't even moved yet.

This is the number 1 reason I did the auto swap. At no point could I get my car to hook the way I wanted too. Stick cars hit the tires really hard, it's hard to mitigate without learning to slip the clutch, which means shortening the clutch life a lot.

 

[fdjizm]

This is the number 1 reason I did the auto swap. At no point could I get my car to hook the way I wanted too. Stick cars hit the tires really hard, it's hard to mitigate without learning to slip the clutch, which means shortening the clutch life a lot.

And that's why I am going to use this hydraulic thingie. lol