What in the actual F would cause this!?!?

[Racer45]

So I was tearing down the motor today cause I assumed one of my chain tensioners seal blew out. “Was not the case” what actually happened was my new tensioner on right bank got stuck open. Completely frozen in place.

Would that just happen some times?
Second would it cause the crank trigger wheel to tear away the key hole like that?

Everything else seems to be ok but damn wtf is up with that? Only thing I can think of as in to why the trigger wheel got reamed out like that is if maybe the harmonic balancer wasn’t fully seated up against it

Only 5000mi of my new timing set

 

[whitmanink]

For what it's worth , when I took my engine apart this last time .. my driver side one wouldn't go back in either..
I didn't pay no mind to it tho seeing how I had new ones ..
But idk if that would cause all of that.
At best maybe a premature worn out chain or sprocket?

I do know that whatever happened ... The trigger wheel is another end result of it..

 

[Midlife Crises]

My experience is that the super damper was not fully seated against the trigger wheel. If you did not have the damper hub honed to fit the crank snout it may be too tight on the snout for the bolt to draw the damper up against the trigger wheel and clamp it firmly. The result is the trigger wheel and the timing chain sprocket have to rely on the key to hold them in position. Obviously the soft trigger wheel won’t tolerate that and you may find that the timing chain gear is loose enough to slide off of the crank snout by hand.
Have you been using a Two Step rev limiter? If not, have you banged the max rev limiter? I think that hammers the heck out of the timing set.
After I did this, I had the ATI damper honed to a 0.0015” interferences fit. Replaced the damaged trigger wheel and installed a new steel sprocket.

 

[Racer45]

My experience is that the super damper was not fully seated against the trigger wheel. If you did not have the damper hub honed to fit the crank snout it may be too tight on the snout for the bolt to draw the damper up against the trigger wheel and clamp it firmly. The result is the trigger wheel and the timing chain sprocket have to rely on the key to hold them in position. Obviously the soft trigger wheel won’t tolerate that and you may find that the timing chain gear is loose enough to slide off of the crank snout by hand.
Have you been using a Two Step rev limiter? If not, have you banged the max rev limiter? I think that hammers the heck out of the timing set.
After I did this, I had the ATI damper honed to a 0.0015” interferences fit. Replaced the damaged trigger wheel and installed a new steel sprocket.

View attachment 115945

Thanks for sharing your experience. That checks out for me

No. My chains where still tight. One of my tensioners failed and go stuck fully extended out to.

No 2 step on the car.

But yes I hit my limiter very often when its not worth up shifting coming into corners

Think this time around once a get a new trigger wheel I’ll dry putting the anti seize on the snout and boiling the balancer for a few minutes this time. Maybe hit the balancers bore with a sanding drum a little to.

Think maybe a mix of that and also using the APR crank bolt with the 100 ft lbs torque spec probably played a little bit into the issue as well.

 

[Midlife Crises]

With the damage you show to the trigger wheel I would inspect the gear that drives the timing chains very closely. My chains were undamaged but I could feel slop in the gear when wiggling it on the crank snout. That gear is powdered metal and I feared it might come apart so I replaced it with a steel gear from MMR. The new gear fit the snout with light resistance and no slop. The properly fit damper also went on smoothly. I used a bit of RTV sealant on the keyway and red lock-tite on the bolt. No more problems with that.
I did the same procedure when installing an Innovators West overdrive damper and have had no problems with it either.

 

[Racer45]

Thanks for the recommendations.
Im not even going to bother checking it.

Just put in my order for

-MMR billet crank gear

-MMR billet trigger wheel

-MMR billet chain guides

Putting a lid on it till those parts show up

 

[Racer45]

With the damage you show to the trigger wheel I would inspect the gear that drives the timing chains very closely. My chains were undamaged but I could feel slop in the gear when wiggling it on the crank snout. That gear is powdered metal and I feared it might come apart so I replaced it with a steel gear from MMR. The new gear fit the snout with light resistance and no slop. The properly fit damper also went on smoothly. I used a bit of RTV sealant on the keyway and red lock-tite on the bolt. No more problems with that.
I did the same procedure when installing an Innovators West overdrive damper and have had no problems with it either.

You were right, there was some play in the crank gear. About .005” to .010” back and forth. Just put on all the MMR parts this morning and there damn solid
Thanks for pointing that out for me.

 

[Racer45]

Bling bling