Because "Chinese monotube" sends me running away
Because "Chinese monotube" sends me running away
European monotube. That's all you need to know. That and you'll break your konis.
Hell, the STOCK suspension does that when you really push the car.
Spring stiffness only "completely" governs bump travel caused by car loading and inertial responses (i.e. roll, pitch, heave). It does not completely control displacement-caused events (such as when a wheel hits a speed bump or a badly mismatched driveway entrance . . . or possibly a track curbing). Proper spring design means that both situations need to be addressed in some way.So stock type struts will bottom with stock springs? If not, why not (i.e., what's so special about stock springs that they keep the struts from bottoming)?
If they do, then that's a design flaw for sure, one that I'm happy that Bilstein has corrected.
Let me put it another way. The stock spring rate up front is 131 lb/in. If you lower the front by an inch, and you originally had 4 inches of compression travel, then that means that the new springs have to have a rate of 175 lb/in (131 * 4/3) in order to achieve exactly the same force at full compression. If the stock-type strut isn't bottoming with stock springs, then it won't bottom when lowered with springs of at least 175 lb/in. That assumes, of course, that the stock springs aren't getting into coil bind or something during compression.
And the more compression travel you started with before lowering, the less additional spring rate you'll need in order to get the same spring force at full compression once you've lowered the car.
Folks pushing beyond this level of spring rate (ie: BIG levels of grip) will still need to look at other options with more aggressive, adjustable valving like MCS.
$900 seems like a lot, but there's not much other game in town. You can go with the Koni's and lose shock travel, or jump up to the entry-level name brand coils and gain damping/height adjustment for the extra $$.
Until you've spent $2,100 between two sets of Koni's and the eventual bilstein set up I've got now.... If I had listened to the advice I was given from the start I could've spent that money elsewhere.
Until you've spent $2,100 between two sets of Koni's and the eventual bilstein set up I've got now.... If I had listened to the advice I was given from the start I could've spent that money elsewhere.
Yeah I got money that says if you had that $2100 you wouldn't buy the koni's or the Bilsteins.
This is very much the same review I'd give the Bilsteins that are now on my wife's LGT. Including the bouncing as you go over certain road contours, which my wife isn't too happy with.We love ours. Well once we got our alignment where the car responded accurately we loved them =]
We have a tad to much hyper activity in bouncing as a DD. But loves corners and makes the Pirelli's act like the cheap ass tires that they are. We plan to get Michelin Pilot's as replacements...
Not at all. The copper washers are a little annoying when trying to remove them from the banjo bolts before you swap to the new lines but overall it's not a hard job.Is it hard to put the SS lines on? I want to replace mine, but was thinking I should let a shop do it.