FRPP top end

[Crodrc51]

I have a stock '08 GT and am interested in doing the FRPP top end-throttle body, intake piping, intake manifold, stage 1 cnc heads, hot rod cams, and have it tuned. Anybody have these mods on their car? How do you feel about it all? Money well spent? How much did you spend? Did they pull the motor or do it in car? I know the car will need full exhaust and 3.73 in the future. Please chime in. Thanks. Charlie

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Buy a blower, youll be happier in the end.

 

[tmcolegr]

Buy a blower, youll be happier in the end.

Exactly - more bang for the buck

 

[BruceH]

I have a stock '08 GT and am interested in doing the FRPP top end-throttle body, intake piping, intake manifold, stage 1 cnc heads, hot rod cams, and have it tuned. Anybody have these mods on their car? How do you feel about it all? Money well spent? How much did you spend? Did they pull the motor or do it in car? I know the car will need full exhaust and 3.73 in the future. Please chime in. Thanks. Charlie

If you are dead set on staying na then at least skip the tb and intake manifold. They won't do a thing but lighten your wallet.

Heads are going to be about $1650 shipped, Hot Rods $700, TB $500, Intake $500, CAI $300. You will also need a head changing kit, about $65 shipped. Total over $3700 without labor for about 60-75 hp with a tune.

You could get in touch with Beefcake Racing who is a forum sponsor and pick up a Vortech or Paxton non intercooled kit for less. He sells below minimum advertised pricing so you have to send him a pm for a price.

Anyhow you could get a tuner kit, buy injectors and a bap for less than price of the top end kit. Install it yourself (it's easy) and make 450 rwhp safely and easily. You would still need an sct tuner and tune but those would be needed with the top end kit too.

 

[Crodrc51]

That has been choice num 2, possibly going with a Paxton self lubricating system. I'll check out beefcake. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Blackbird1084]

First off why on earth would you buy heads then buy hot rod cams? There are better cams for an n/a setup out there. If you spent the money right in the right places you could have a nasty n/a car that would out run any stock with a blower car. And if you got bored you could throw a bottle on and trap 120+.

 

[8306gt]

First off why on earth would you buy heads then buy hot rod cams? There are better cams for an n/a setup out there. If you spent the money right in the right places you could have a nasty n/a car that would out run any stock with a blower car. And if you got bored you could throw a bottle on and trap 120+.

I don't recall seeing any 10 sec n/a 3v cars, yet there are several of us who have run 10's with stock long block and a blower trapping in the mid 120's.

 

[GERMANSHEPERD]

I've gone almost 10s and trapped 120 a couple of times in my NA car.

 

[BruceH]

First off why on earth would you buy heads then buy hot rod cams? There are better cams for an n/a setup out there. If you spent the money right in the right places you could have a nasty n/a car that would out run any stock with a blower car. And if you got bored you could throw a bottle on and trap 120+.

Can you share the details? There are quite a few people on this board in the low 11's with a stock block and blower.

FWIW Matt Desilva gave up on the 3V na at 11.01. He had more value into it than a blower though.

 

[Swarzkopf]

Guy at the track yesterday had a redfire 3V GT like mine....very clean, attractive car. Watched it go 11.8 @ 116, so I stopped over to chat with him.

It was N/A- he had heads, cams, intake, headers, 4.56 gears, full suspension, major weight reduction (tubular k-member, major interior gutting), etc. and was on bias-ply Hoosier QTPs if I recall correctly. The car didn't even have side mirrors anymore, wasn't street legal, and was trailered in.

Impressive for N/A, sure- but to keep things in perspective, my 8 PSI Paxton blown, non-intercooled, automatic, stock valvetrain, stock exhaust manifolds, stock 3.31 gears, stock converter, stock suspension blah blah blah full weight '05 GT went 12.03 @ 114 the same day, and I drove it to the track and home.

It depends on your goals I guess. For me, I like the tame street manners that my blower let's me have, while still managing decent ETs.

 

[8306gt]

I've gone almost 10s and trapped 120 a couple of times in my NA car.

Yes and your bare block cost as much as I paid for my blower. I am not saying you can't go fast N/A, but take your engine and add a blower and you could be running 9's. The only thing to limiting a stock 3v with a blower from running significantly faster than say the 10.8's mine ran is the shitty rods and pistons.

 

[tjm73]

I crunched the numbers on those very parts and found that by the time you buy all the parts you are 3/4 of the way to buying a Kenne Bell (what I was comparing it too) and only about half way to the power.

I am assuming you are looking at these parts as all coming from FRPP. It sounds like you are thinking about the top end kit from the magazine article last year.

62mm Throttlebody $650
CAI $700
Intake $725
CNC Heads $998 ea.
Hot Rod Cams $850
Total List $4921

 

[The Big Herm]

Do some upgrades to the engine and get a blower. I don't really necessarily like the twin screw blowers. I have a procharger on mine and can run 11's all day on street tires.

 

[tjm73]

Do some upgrades to the engine and get a blower. I don't really necessarily like the twin screw blowers. I have a procharger on mine and can run 11's all day on street tires.

Twin screw type blowers are instant torque at any speed. Centri's are linear to the engine speed. More revs = more boost.

Different ways to have more power. Both have benefits and draw backs depending on the situation they are being used in.

 

[The Big Herm]

I understand that. Twin Screws are also a lot harder on your motor, as well.

 

[2014_GT]

If you spent the money right in the right places you could have a nasty n/a car that would out run any stock with a blower car.

Dollar for dollar, I got into the 10's a shitload cheaper using a Vortech than it would of taken NA. Granted, NA guys can get in the 10's, but your statement as far as cost-effectiveness is pure idiocy.

 

[2014_GT]

If you spent the money right in the right places you could have a nasty n/a car that would out run any stock with a blower car.

Dollar for dollar, I got into the 10's a shitload cheaper using a Vortech than it would of taken NA. Granted, NA guys can get in the 10's, but your statement as far as cost-effectiveness is pure idiocy.

EDIT: And, I did it without having to gut the shit out of the car to get the weight down.

 

[uniquestang]

I understand that. Twin Screws are also a lot harder on your motor, as well.

True but if your already built then why not enjoy the instant torque? For those wanting more power but looking more for a daily driver on a budget kind of blower then a centri is a great choice. (with a few exceptions)

 

[Blackbird1084]

He said he is looking to spend 3500. Any new blower kit is 4500 or more. Depending on the kit. And if he has to pay somebody to install the blower it's going to cost more. Idk why there aren't faster n/a cars as the fastest bolt-on only car went 11's @114. And the only weight reduction he had was the seats, jack, and spare taken out. Honestly a h/c/i full bolt-on car should be trapping near 120 and with slicks that's a 10 sec capable pass. Hell I've got less than $1200 in all of my suspension and performance parts (nitrous kit included) and I'm trapping higher and running quicker than quite a few blower guys on here in stock size street tires. N/a I'm now trapping 107 full weight which is higher than some procharged 3v cars I've seen at my local track. That's without headers, intake, gears, and a cat-back (yes i know a cat-back only adds around 1-3 rwhp). I know that any form of fi is going to out run an n/a car. But if you can find deals like I have you can get a strong n/a car cheaper than a blower. That being said I'm still going turbo at the start of the year on my 06', adding nitrous to my TA, and shooting for 10's in both.

 

[uniquestang]

Actually 11.5 @ 118 is the fast stock displacement 3v car on the board here. But you got to figure it comes down to power/ weight ratio plus a bunch of other factors as driver, traction, suspension, weather, etc. Also there are power adders for even under 3k now on here which if he installs it himself will give him money left to get it tuned as well. You can't ultimately try and compare numbers in all situations. Cuz if you are trapping better than a blower car n/a then there is something seriously wrong with that other stang/driver.

He said he is looking to spend 3500. Any new blower kit is 4500 or more. Depending on the kit. And if he has to pay somebody to install the blower it's going to cost more. Idk why there aren't faster n/a cars as the fastest bolt-on only car went 11's @114. And the only weight reduction he had was the seats, jack, and spare taken out. Honestly a h/c/i full bolt-on car should be trapping near 120 and with slicks that's a 10 sec capable pass. Hell I've got less than $1200 in all of my suspension and performance parts (nitrous kit included) and I'm trapping higher and running quicker than quite a few blower guys on here in stock size street tires. N/a I'm now trapping 107 full weight which is higher than some procharged 3v cars I've seen at my local track. That's without headers, intake, gears, and a cat-back (yes i know a cat-back only adds around 1-3 rwhp). I know that any form of fi is going to out run an n/a car. But if you can find deals like I have you can get a strong n/a car cheaper than a blower. That being said I'm still going turbo at the start of the year on my 06', adding nitrous to my TA, and shooting for 10's in both.