Broken timing guides/tensioners

TurboX

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Well I bought 2 lottery tickets on the way home, I lost but I still feel damn lucky.

In a effort to reach my goal of 1000RWHP and a 200MPH slip in the Texas Mile, I decided to pull my heads off to be ported and polished. My car made roughly 800/800 on 19psi, I stopped tuning there because I knew I was going to need to port the heads and need a bigger/better Turbo. The car ran great and didn't miss a beat, I was playing on the streets the night before I parked the car. Well last night I pulled the motor and today disassembled to find this. Had I got on it 1 more time or hadn't decided to pull the motor, I would have a big pile of useless shit.


I can see that one of the pressed dowel pins broke on the passengers side but what caused both swing arms to break,What happen 1st ? The heads look fine and there was no piston to valve contact. Shipping heads on Tuesday and hopefully go from there.
 
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BruceH

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I'm pretty sure that's why Ford went to the improved tensioner. Something about the old style locking open from time to time.
 

Rasmus

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This same thing seriously just happened to me, although it was only on the passenger side. Tensioner broke the same place, and the pin went too.

Here's to the occasional good luck.
 

TurboX

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I'm pretty sure that's why Ford went to the improved tensioner. Something about the old style locking open from time to time.

Really ????? Then why the hell do I see everybody going to the old style, I spent good money on these to replace the new style. I have my suspecions as to what happen but I wanna do more homework before I post what I think happen.

Holy...

Hitting the limiter too much in those last running times?

Never, I don't even think I have a rev limiter. I have long high speed(upwards of 160mph) runs but always short shift at about 6200.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Id have bought more lottery tickets, you have some serious luck on your side.
 
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Rasmus

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I have my suspecions as to what happen but I wanna do more homework before I post what I think happen.

Care to share in a PM? I'm still trying to figure out why mine went. This wasn't the first time either. First time the tensioner kept bleeding down.
 

lito

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Really ????? Then why the hell do I see everybody going to the old style, I spent good money on these to replace the new style. I have my suspecions as to what happen but I wanna do more homework before I post what I think happen.



Never, I don't even think I have a rev limiter. I have long high speed(upwards of 160mph) runs but always short shift at about 6200.

Newer style tend to fail on the o-ring that seals to the block, ratchet system in the old style always looked like plus, except obviously if it fails and lock while collapsed, actually is a first for me, never heard before.

I only asked as limiter is maybe on of the things that put more stress into the cam timing components.

Oil pump is good? (assume tha if it was billett pretty sure is good)
 

TurboX

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The losing scratcher tickets but Im still a winner and didn't loose a $6500 short block and $1000 in valve train :clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
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TurboX

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Newer style tend to fail on the o-ring that seals to the block, ratchet system in the old style always looked like plus, except obviously if it fails and lock while collapsed, actually is a first for me, never heard before.

I only asked as limiter is maybe on of the things that put more stress into the cam timing components.

Oil pump is good? (assume tha if it was billett pretty sure is good)

Yes its a TSS billet oil pump, I will remove cams and that should be a tell tell sign of a oil issue.
 

05stroker

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This same thing seriously just happened to me, although it was only on the passenger side. Tensioner broke the same place, and the pin went too.

Here's to the occasional good luck.

Care to share in a PM? I'm still trying to figure out why mine went. This wasn't the first time either. First time the tensioner kept bleeding down.


What tensioners do you have?

And thos that have had this happen, what is your oil psi at idle and peek?
 

BruceH

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Really ????? Then why the hell do I see everybody going to the old style, I spent good money on these to replace the new style. I have my suspecions as to what happen but I wanna do more homework before I post what I think happen.



Never, I don't even think I have a rev limiter. I have long high speed(upwards of 160mph) runs but always short shift at about 6200.

It's something that came up when I was doing my first motor. It's been quite awhile.

FWIW I've never had an issue with the standard tensioners. I've read many posters state that they are no good. IIRC the plastic ones have been revised.

Those are the best tensioners to have. The new plastic ones are garbage.

You see many more examples than the rest of us. Does your dealership see alot of the newer plastic tensioners fail? Have you seen the metal ones lock open before? A quick google search came up with cases of the metal tensioners locking open and destroying guides but it was mostly older explorers and F150s.
 

TurboX

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I'm pretty sure that's why Ford went to the improved tensioner. Something about the old style locking open from time to time.
Is it improved or a cost effective measure, iron vs plastic ? Also have to wonder, I was told last night that the Coyote has the older style(iron with ratchet) hydrolic tensioners.


Those are the best tensioners to have. The new plastic ones are garbage.

I assume this comment is based off failures you see in the dealer ?

Care to share in a PM? I'm still trying to figure out why mine went. This wasn't the first time either. First time the tensioner kept bleeding down.

I will post more next week in this thread.

And thos that have had this happen, what is your oil psi at idle and peek?

Sorry, I was still in process of installing all my gauges. Could oil pressure be too high when VCT is eliminated ?
 

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