Coyote Catastrophic Failure

[GrabberBlue5.0]

Glad to see its coming along half way smoothly

 

[filtercharger]

Good progress brother!

 

[blackgt87]

I appreciate the kind words fellas.

Does anybody know if it matters which knock sensor plugs into which pigtail? Like can they be switched? They are about the same length and I'm gonna go back and watch my video to try and get them back where they go but I didn't know if it mattered.

Also does anyone know how I need to bleed this clutch? Obviously given my previous fuck up I am a hydraulic clutch n00b. I should have bench bled the new slave cylinder before I put it on and it probably would have helped.

Somehow I managed to lose the bolt that goes on the steering shaft and also the clip that holds the clutch line to the firewall. Which pisses me off because I have been very tedious throughout the project to label everything and not lose shit. Oh well nobody's perfect. I'm gonna call tousely tomorrow and try to buy them.

 

[skwerl]

Any transmission shop will have the clutch line clip. When I replaced my clutch line the factory clips had stupid little 90 degree bends which made it almost impossible to reinstall them without practically pulling the transmission. After dropping one between the frame and fender I popped over to my buddy's transmission shop. He opened his junk drawer, dug around a little and handed me two suitable clips the same size but without the stupid 90 degree bend. Had the line back on in 4 minutes.

 

[slagburn]

Also does anyone know how I need to bleed this clutch? Obviously given my previous fuck up I am a hydraulic clutch n00b. I should have bench bled the new slave cylinder before I put it on and it probably would have helped.

Sure. I bet you've noticed there's no bleed screw, meaning all the air has to make its way up to the top of the fluid reservoir. Some guys will pump the hell out of the pedal for about an hour, that works if you don't mind a few thousand more miles on your clutch master cyl. Do you have a Mityvac? Go to Walmart, get a kids bouncy ball. Not hard rubber, the pliable one.. they're pink most of the time, about 3-4 inches across. Get a chunk of steel tube that fits into the Mityvac hose. Sharpen the end, push it through the ball so one side barely protrudes. Put the hose on your bouncy ball, put it on top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and pull 15 inches of vacuum for about 30 seconds. Pump the clutch pedal for one minute. Drive.

Same trick works on brake systems, power steering, etc. The bouncy ball is soft and will conform to most sizes and shapes of reservoirs with help from some vacuum.

 

[JAJ]

Sure. I bet you've noticed there's no bleed screw, meaning all the air has to make its way up to the top of the fluid reservoir. Some guys will pump the hell out of the pedal for about an hour, that works if you don't mind a few thousand more miles on your clutch master cyl. Do you have a Mityvac? Go to Walmart, get a kids bouncy ball. Not hard rubber, the pliable one.. they're pink most of the time, about 3-4 inches across. Get a chunk of steel tube that fits into the Mityvac hose. Sharpen the end, push it through the ball so one side barely protrudes. Put the hose on your bouncy ball, put it on top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and pull 15 inches of vacuum for about 30 seconds. Pump the clutch pedal for one minute. Drive.

Same trick works on brake systems, power steering, etc. The bouncy ball is soft and will conform to most sizes and shapes of reservoirs with help from some vacuum.

That's pretty much the factory bleed procedure, except they don't push a pipe through a ball. Same process, though.

 

[DareDevil]

PROGRESS! PROGRESS!!

 

[2c5s]

Any plans for the original block and crank?

 

[blackgt87]

Sure. I bet you've noticed there's no bleed screw, meaning all the air has to make its way up to the top of the fluid reservoir. Some guys will pump the hell out of the pedal for about an hour, that works if you don't mind a few thousand more miles on your clutch master cyl. Do you have a Mityvac? Go to Walmart, get a kids bouncy ball. Not hard rubber, the pliable one.. they're pink most of the time, about 3-4 inches across. Get a chunk of steel tube that fits into the Mityvac hose. Sharpen the end, push it through the ball so one side barely protrudes. Put the hose on your bouncy ball, put it on top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and pull 15 inches of vacuum for about 30 seconds. Pump the clutch pedal for one minute. Drive.

Same trick works on brake systems, power steering, etc. The bouncy ball is soft and will conform to most sizes and shapes of reservoirs with help from some vacuum.

If anybody has any pictures of this rig it would help. Also I don't have a mityvac I had to google what that even was lol.

Any plans for the original block and crank?

I was serious about making a coffee table. Probably a little down the road after the car is done and I have some spare time again. And access to a large parts washer lol. I'd like to get my MoneyPitRacing logo etched in a piece of glass too.

Wednesday I got the starter installed and the steering shaft back in place and the harness laid in place and a few things plugged in.

Yesterday I got the harness completely installed. Everything is plugged in and all the little push clips are in place and its all bolted back to the oil pan and ac pump and the widebands and stuff are all plugged back in. I also did not use the oxygen sensor extensions, I felt like they were cheap and not secure and when you free up the wires they reach fine anyway.

I am really happy with how the harness went back in, it looks just like it did before. I got the ground straps and stuff back on too.

I also set the radiator down in, I still have to hook all the hoses and shit up to it. I'm gonna try and swindle the dealer into recharging my AC for free lol.

Still have quite a few hoses to hook up, tons of coolant lines from the radiator and blower and heater core, pcv lines and some more plugs for the MAF and TB extensions. I would say a few more hours of work and I'll be back to where I was while doing the blower install. I hope to get a lot done this weekend. I still have to install my BAP too.

 

[Grimace427]

Yesterday I got the harness completely installed. Everything is plugged in and all the little push clips are in place and its all bolted back to the oil pan and ac pump and the widebands and stuff are all plugged back in. I also did not use the oxygen sensor extensions, I felt like they were cheap and not secure and when you free up the wires they reach fine anyway.

Progress looks great! Don't get in a hurry and rush the last parts, take your time.

Just out of curiosity, were you using the O2 wideband harness extensions before? If so, could they have caused the engine go boom or maybe made things worse? You would not have been the first casuality of engine failure because of those extensions.

 

[blackgt87]

Progress looks great! Don't get in a hurry and rush the last parts, take your time.

Just out of curiosity, were you using the O2 wideband harness extensions before? If so, could they have caused the engine go boom or maybe made things worse? You would not have been the first casuality of engine failure because of those extensions.

No I had stock headers before and no extensions. The new headers came with them but after getting the motor in I decided they weren't necessary. And didn't lock as tight as the factory plugs do.

I haven't rushed anything yet so hopefully I can keep it up. Thanks!

 

[Seer]

Progress looks great! Don't get in a hurry and rush the last parts, take your time.

Just out of curiosity, were you using the O2 wideband harness extensions before? If so, could they have caused the engine go boom or maybe made things worse? You would not have been the first casuality of engine failure because of those extensions.

they dont make engines explode... they sometimes unlatch, which causes them to go boom.

From what I've seen the 5.0 you can get away with not running an extender for long tubes.

The GT500 you need an extender or run the Raptor o2.

 

[blackgt87]

they dont make engines explode... they sometimes unlatch, which causes them to go boom.

From what I've seen the 5.0 you can get away with not running an extender for long tubes.

The GT500 you need an extender or run the Raptor o2.

I got money says these would unlatch. I could pull them right back off. I zip tied one together so it couldnt come apart then when I had to zip tie all the extra wire up out of the way I was like wow this is retarded. I took em off and the factory clips hold tight and fit fine.

 

[Mystickeith50]

I got money says these would unlatch. I could pull them right back off. I zip tied one together so it couldnt come apart then when I had to zip tie all the extra wire up out of the way I was like wow this is retarded. I took em off and the factory clips hold tight and fit fine.

I'm not using extensions...just disconnect from top of trans an done.

 

[slagburn]

That's pretty much the factory bleed procedure, except they don't push a pipe through a ball. Same process, though.

Yeah, I'm well aware of that.. The workshop manual calls out a 50 dollar tool that not many people have which is why I pointed out how to make your own.

 

[blackgt87]

Yeah, I'm well aware of that.. The workshop manual calls out a 50 dollar tool that not many people have which is why I pointed out how to make your own.

I dont have a mityvac or any kind of vacuum pump. Can anyone point me to the direction of the tool I'll just buy that.


I got the coolant hoses all hooked up for the most part on friday, I was helping a buddy put some longtubes on his caprice (from 5:30 pm to 3:00 am) and it was a NIGHTMARE so I really didn't focus on my car too much. Although I got a decent amount done.

Looked like this

Saturday we finished his longtubes (like I said nightmare) and I was so beat I didn't do shit to my car.

Today I got a lot done. Heres where we are

I got pretty much everything back on the engine. I poured a decent amount of oil over the top end before I put the valve covers on (I would guess about a quart maybe more) so I just put 7 quarts of oil in it right now and the dipstick says full. After I run it and fill the filter and shit I will check it again.

I gotta go buy some distilled water and mix the coolant for the engine and the blower. Does anybody know approximately how many gallons the engine holds?

Things I have left to do are install the clip for the clutch line and bleed the clutch. Install the steering shaft bolt I lost. (both of those are on the way from tousely) Install the BAP. Put the coolant in. Install the x pipe and plug the rear o2's in. Then just the front bumper and stuff.

Speaking of the x pipe, I am lost as to how it's supposed to attach to the catback. I double checked this is the part number for the one that connect to the stock 2.75" catback. I even called JBA and they said that it "should attach using the stock hardware".

Here is a shitty pic of what it looks like (don't mind all the oil lol)

You can see the JBA x pipe is stretched at the back to slip over the stock catback pipes. Do I need to buy bigger band clamps to hold it together? The stock band clamps do not fit over those puffed up parts of the JBA x. I beat them on with a rubber mallet and when they are stretched on you can't get the nuts on the bolts that actually clamp it.

Also the header collectors dont match up to the front of the x pipe. The headers are too far apart and kinda close to the frame rails. Can I just pry on them to bend them in a little bit? I would say each one is about 3/4" too far out.

so close......

 

[avinaj80]

I wish I was you. That's a hell of a project and well done. Hope it runs like a beast for you man!!!

 

[blackgt87]

I wish I was you. That's a hell of a project and well done. Hope it runs like a beast for you man!!!

Thanks!!

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Also the header collectors dont match up to the front of the x pipe. The headers are too far apart and kinda close to the frame rails. Can I just pry on them to bend them in a little bit? I would say each one is about 3/4" too far out.

so close......

What the ?!?!?!?!?!?! You mean the headers are spread apart to far to connect to the X pipe and both are JBA products???? Man, that's jacked up! I would be careful "tweaking" them for fear of CRIMPING a primary somewhere along the tube.

BUT if I understang this correctly, I would put a "tow strap" running aroung one header connector to the other making a loop and a small come-a-long in the middle and ever-so-slowing "wench" or "pull" the connectors together simultaneously for the 3/4" you need.

 

[blackgt87]

What the ?!?!?!?!?!?! You mean the headers are spread apart to far to connect to the X pipe and both are JBA products???? Man, that's jacked up! I would be careful "tweaking" them for fear of CRIMPING a primary somewhere along the tube.

BUT if I understang this correctly, I would put a "tow strap" running aroung one header connector to the other making a loop and a small come-a-long in the middle and ever-so-slowing "wench" or "pull" the connectors together simultaneously for the 3/4" you need.

Yeah you got it right. Kinda sucks. I think I will ratchet strap them together and see if they pull in.

Still lost on the rear connection...