Installed PAC Aux audio. Now headlight switch is wonky.

[DILYSI Dave]

Installed the PAC kit (http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=821&CategoryID=24) in my 2006 GT with the Shaker 500 head unit. That works great. On the other hand, now my headlight switch doesn't light up and my headlight warning chime is gone. I wired the PAC initially to the empty fuse 13 location, as it was a switched source, but that didn't work. I then hooked it up to the fuse 9 location, a constant source (per the instructions), and it worked fine. Got the car back together, and now the headlight switch and chime is wonky. Thoughts?

 

[Sky Render]

If you need a constant power source, just run a fuse off the positive terminal and run it through the firewall.

 

[DILYSI Dave]

Yeah, I could have done that, but I didn't want to put more crap through the firewall if I didn't need to. I had heard of people tapping the fusebox for gauges and such, so I did the same.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I use fuse locations #5 and #13 for gauges (switched source) and such; never had an issue with anything.

Why is your headlight switch and chime affected? The PAC system has nothing to do with any of that. Did you possibly have loose wiring back there that has now been disturbed and causing you issues...?

Pop out the headlight switch and take a look at the wiring/connectors.

 

[Sky Render]

Gauges need a switched source. I thought you said you needed a constant source?

 

[DILYSI Dave]

Why is your headlight switch and chime affected? The PAC system has nothing to do with any of that. Did you possibly have loose wiring back there that has now been disturbed and causing you issues...?

Pop out the headlight switch and take a look at the wiring/connectors.

That's why I'm on here asking questions. I agree that nothing SHOULD have effected it, but something did. I don't know canbus at all - could tapping the fuseblock have thrown something off? The fact that it's the switch illumination AND the chime makes me think it's not just that wiring got disconnected.

Gauges need a switched source. I thought you said you needed a constant source?

The instructions called for a constant source. I didn't want to give it a constant source, as I didn't want to introduce what could be a slow drain. So I initially went for fuse 13, which was switched. Didn't work. So then I swapped it to fuse 9, which IS constant, and the PAC works great. It's now just my headlight switch acting goofy.

 

[Sky Render]

That is a really weird symptom. The first thing I would do is disconnect that wire you just installed and see if the headlight switch starts working correctly again. If so, use a different fuse.

Have you tried using one of these and tapping into a fuse location that isn't marked as "not used"?

 

[bcb06gt]

Just tap the 12v wire that runs near the shifter for the power /cig lighter in the center console. This is how mine is done.

 

[DILYSI Dave]

I wanted to run to the fusebox because I abhor taps, modified wiring harnesses, etc., but thanks.

 

[Mustang30212]

Does it not light up at all? Probably 7 out of 10 headlight switches that I take apart have the main bulb blown.

What about the foglight indicator light...does it still work?

RH

 

[DILYSI Dave]

Foglight indicator works. The chime started working again. Dunno why, but it did. So now it's just the switch illumination. I'll pull it and check the bulb now that the chime has decided to work again.

 

[Mustang30212]

If you need a bulb...let me know. I'm told Ford doesn't sell a replacement bulb...just the entire switch.

RH