If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

SS KILLR

Killer of the SS
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Posts
2,325
Reaction score
0
Location
Temple Texas
I have the Whiteline adjustable sway bar so I guess my only option is to weld the tubes. I don't think the Che bar would work because of the location
dejahetu.jpg

Not my car
 

Smokievol

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Posts
90
Reaction score
4
Location
North Carolina
In Carolina also

Who did your welding job 55 not?

I had my tubes welded last week when I had the rear rebuilt,, I took the rear out and took it to a chassis builder, he put it on an axle jig and welded it for $150.


You'll probably be fine welding on the car but the tubes did warp a little even on the jig (he did preheat them) and he had to heat and straighten em' during welding.


Plus,,, its sooooo much easier to paint the rear with it out of the car.

.
 

FastColt

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Posts
89
Reaction score
0
Location
CT
Why would Ford not weld these right from the factory? If stock powered cars can tweak the tubes, seems like a huge design flaw.
 

fdjizm

Drag Queen
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Posts
19,534
Reaction score
343
Location
NY/NJ
Why would Ford not weld these right from the factory? If stock powered cars can tweak the tubes, seems like a huge design flaw.

I wouldn't call the beating a stock 8.8 rear takes before it fails a design flaw.
I'm on years of launches now and mine are just find on a bit above stock power :thumb:

Most normal drivers will never twist their tubes, ford didn't sell us a dragster. :roflmao:
 

Thekid760

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2011
Posts
709
Reaction score
1
Location
West Coast
I got mine welded by Dustin (CPRsm).

He was priced well, and is an awesome dude, but more importantly he does killer work.


61C69D3A-2892-4F3B-B0E6-47DB7BCE2D4E-3619-000003F7D0E74C63.jpg
 

shiznight

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Posts
134
Reaction score
0
I got mine welded by Dustin (CPRsm).

He was priced well, and is an awesome dude, but more importantly he does killer work.


61C69D3A-2892-4F3B-B0E6-47DB7BCE2D4E-3619-000003F7D0E74C63.jpg

Very nice weld. all welds should look like a roll of nickels fell over and this guy nailed it!
 

gizmo5

Italian between my legs
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Posts
2,788
Reaction score
2
Question, did he weld them on the car or did he take it off? Im about to get mine done
 

DTL

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Posts
295
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
I've been procrastinating, but I know I need to get mine done too. I want to get rid of the c-clips at the same time, but haven't found a kit I like. Seems like the Strange eliminator kit can take a bit of machining to work properly.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

Official Site Vendor
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Posts
1,592
Reaction score
116
Location
Dallas, TX
While we don't drag race our 2011 GT, those little factory rossette welds holding the axle tubes in have been spooking me when used with 315mm Hoosier A6 race tires.



So today, while the axle housing was out of the car for a Torsen T-2R diff install our guys TIG welded the tubes into the center housing.



Since the bolt-on Whiteline LCA relocation brackets were there we went ahead and welded those in place as well.



Then the bare steel housing, which had been surface rusting, was cleaned up and repainted semi-gloss black. It is all back in the car now awaiting some new upper control arm updates.



Thanks for the welding tips to the OP and others who have shared pics here. These pictures in my post can be clicked for higher resolution versions.

Cheers,
 

Djstorm100

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Posts
148
Reaction score
0
here is my .02 and some pics of how it should be done. I also have them put in the jig and staighten it.


Yes, here you go. Couldnt do it on my phone.
parts132.jpg



parts136.jpg


parts131.jpg


parts133.jpg


The bolts are Grade 8 and they are put in direct shear with the tubes. It takes an enormous amount of pressure to strip these in direct shear.

In contrast you can weld the tubes and put this thing in the jig and i can put less than 30 psi of pressure on it and snap the welds. AND yes it doesnt matter how nicely the weld is done it will snap because the cast is just that weak, and weaker when you melt it and reform it in a weld.

Its hard to tell racers this because you get the " well so and so runs 5s with his welded and he has no problems." Its the factory pins holding the car. The weld holds absolutely nothing. I have seen countless welded tubes in the jig and have yet to get one straight without breaking the welds. Welding presents a few other problems as well, if not completely done right and its difficult, you can melt the seals where the tubes slide in and cause leaking by the tubes(seen it), also it pulls the axle and its no longer straight(seen some examples of this and wonder how the car ever went straight down track). IF we weld the tubes we cant weld them and then straighten, because it will break the cast pumpkin. IT has to be welded in the jig and straighten as you go to get it right, its a very time consuming process and its pointless. If the pined tubes wont work you have a 3 second capable 1/4 mile car that needs a 9 inch housing at that point.
 

gizmo5

Italian between my legs
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Posts
2,788
Reaction score
2
More details on this please. "Direct shear"?

Can you lay out the process please?
 

Djstorm100

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Posts
148
Reaction score
0
More details on this please. "Direct shear"?

Can you lay out the process please?

The tubes are "connected" with the pumpkin. Thus it provide a stronger connection as it takes alot of pressure (PSI) to shear the grade 8 bolts off. The pumpkin and axle tubes are drilled and then tapped for the bolt (with sealant) this locks the tube inside of the pump vs on the edges only. There are no nuts on the inside, the bolt is just flush with the ID of the axle tube. Since the connection is more inward toward the "meat" of the pumpkin it is stronger and forces of shear and leverage won't have effect on it, compare to putting a small bead on the outside edge where axle tube and pumpkin meat at.
 
Last edited:

Riptide

Will work for Mustang.
Joined
Oct 27, 2009
Posts
5,248
Reaction score
17
Location
Montucky
Finally got around to reading this thread. Been reading these forums for years both here and MF. I can't hardly even think of a thread where this was mentioned and there have been a lot of people launching their cars hard with a lot of power in these forums. For whatever reason it seems to be coming up more often. Obviously a lot of people have gotten away with not doing this.

I realize it's cheap insurance. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from doing it.

My car had wheel hop problems even with upgraded aftermarket (steeda) poly bushing LCA. Seriously, it was flat terrible. The relocation brackets seem to have helped with that significantly but now it looks like they may have the side effect of increasing the chances of this particular problem cropping up. Makes me glad I moved mine back in to the upper of the two holes.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top