Let's talk O2s and emission testing

[Ssiptang]

The trick for the cat efficiency is you have to stay very very light throttle and keep the rpms down. You want to produce as little gasses as possible. I basically kept my rpms below 2500 the entire time while I tried to get my cats ready. That was the last item to go ready for me and it took a very long while for that to happen.

How many miles did it take you to clear the cats code?

I think bank 2 is the passanger side, could be 100% wrong. I have a 50/50 chance, so its most likely the opposite of what I think.

O2's should last a lot longer than 18k, but many, many things can lead to them going south. Mine went at 30k for some odd reason.

Yea thats what I was thinking. Anything can happen I guess.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

bank 2 is driver side, band 1 passengers side.

Having the ability to read OBD readiness is CHEAP and worth the price; there's devices that you can buy for $30 or less to read it. Or, if you can directly read OBDII data, read mode / pid value 01 01, and the result can be decoded to indicate your readiness.

As far as p0430, that's driver-side rear o2 sensor. Most likely caused from your high-flow cats, spark plug anti fouler is the easiest 'trick' for you; might as well do both sides, as you'll likely get a p0420 as well, eventually.

The code can go away after several drive cycles, but to be sure, I clear the codes and start the drive cycles over.
You probably don't get the p0430 until after 3 or 4 drive cycles; if that's the case, simply go to your inspection during your 2nd drive cycle, drive long enough (10-15 minutes driving there at various speeds), and that code wont show up (I passed my inspection a couple years by doing this!)

My process is to clear the codes, drive the car for about 10-15 minutes around, trying to hold steady speeds at 45-65 mph, in various speeds, like 55, 45, 65, etc, for a couple minutes. That first drive cycle gets everything ready except evap and catalyst. I wait overnight, then drive to the inspection place 10-15 minutes away, and check readiness, and at most I'll have 1 not ready (catalyst if anything), and that passes in our state.

If you have a PD blower, there can be 'additional challenges' in getting your intake air temps low enough to get the monitors ready. (I have a special tool to solve that.)

 

[S197gt07]

bank 2 is driver side, bank 1 passengers side.

Having the ability to read OBD readiness is CHEAP and worth the price; there's devices that you can buy for $30 or less to read it. Or, if you can directly read OBDII data, read mode / pid value 01 01, and the result can be decoded to indicate your readiness.

As far as p0430, that's driver-side rear o2 sensor. Most likely caused from your high-flow cats, spark plug anti fouler is the easiest 'trick' for you; might as well do both sides, as you'll likely get a p0420 as well, eventually.

The code can go away after several drive cycles, but to be sure, I clear the codes and start the drive cycles over.
You probably don't get the p0430 until after 3 or 4 drive cycles; if that's the case, simply go to your inspection during your 2nd drive cycle, drive long enough (10-15 minutes driving there at various speeds), and that code wont show up (I passed my inspection a couple years by doing this!)

My process is to clear the codes, drive the car for about 10-15 minutes around, trying to hold steady speeds at 45-65 mph, in various speeds, like 55, 45, 65, etc, for a couple minutes. That first drive cycle gets everything ready except evap and catalyst. I wait overnight, then drive to the inspection place 10-15 minutes away, and check readiness, and at most I'll have 1 not ready (catalyst if anything), and that passes in our state.

If you have a PD blower, there can be 'additional challenges' in getting your intake air temps low enough to get the monitors ready. (I have a special tool to solve that.)

I knew I was wrong!

Or, you could just get a tune

 

[Ssiptang]

bank 2 is driver side, band 1 passengers side.

Having the ability to read OBD readiness is CHEAP and worth the price; there's devices that you can buy for $30 or less to read it. Or, if you can directly read OBDII data, read mode / pid value 01 01, and the result can be decoded to indicate your readiness.

As far as p0430, that's driver-side rear o2 sensor. Most likely caused from your high-flow cats, spark plug anti fouler is the easiest 'trick' for you; might as well do both sides, as you'll likely get a p0420 as well, eventually.

The code can go away after several drive cycles, but to be sure, I clear the codes and start the drive cycles over.
You probably don't get the p0430 until after 3 or 4 drive cycles; if that's the case, simply go to your inspection during your 2nd drive cycle, drive long enough (10-15 minutes driving there at various speeds), and that code wont show up (I passed my inspection a couple years by doing this!)

My process is to clear the codes, drive the car for about 10-15 minutes around, trying to hold steady speeds at 45-65 mph, in various speeds, like 55, 45, 65, etc, for a couple minutes. That first drive cycle gets everything ready except evap and catalyst. I wait overnight, then drive to the inspection place 10-15 minutes away, and check readiness, and at most I'll have 1 not ready (catalyst if anything), and that passes in our state.

If you have a PD blower, there can be 'additional challenges' in getting your intake air temps low enough to get the monitors ready. (I have a special tool to solve that.)

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. I just installed the non foulers I bought from Oreillys. Should I disconnect the battery? Or just clear the codes and restart the cycle?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Just clear the codes with your tuner device; thats waaaaaaaay easier than disconnecting the battery and then waiting for like 20 minutes.

 

[Ssiptang]

My car just passed!! lol
P1000 got cleared this morning so I hurried up and went to the closest testing place in my area before some other bs codes pop up.
Thank you all for the help, it saved me a lot of headache.

 

[2DaDarkZide PR]

The tune has the 02s off which is why it says cycle needed. Thats how I have mine. The defouler doesn't work unless the 02s are turned back on.

cool on the pass

 

[Ssiptang]

OK I have an emission test coming up in September. I just loaded up an emission tune I received a week ago from bama. I thought I was supposed to get P1000 but my tuner reads that I have no DTCs to read? Did I receive a wrong tune?

 

[Ssiptang]

Alright. I installed the another new emission tune but I still get no P1000. I can't remember if the code pops up right away or after awhile. If no P1000, how do I know when my cats/evap are ready?
I went thru the test today and this is what I got.
Cats not ready
Heated cats (?) not supported
Evap not ready
O2 sensors ready
So looks like my O2 sensors are on but I'm not sure how to monitor my cats/evap status if there is no P1000 to clear.

 

[torchred]

Too bad you aren't a little closer to Saint Louis. The local tuner I went to pulled impressive dyno numbers and made it pass no problem with hot rods and pretty much all your same mods, and I'm pretty sure Missouri's emissions test is just as hard if not harder to pass than Illinois.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Alright. I installed the another new emission tune but I still get no P1000. I can't remember if the code pops up right away or after awhile. If no P1000, how do I know when my cats/evap are ready?
I went thru the test today and this is what I got.
Cats not ready
Heated cats (?) not supported
Evap not ready
O2 sensors ready
So looks like my O2 sensors are on but I'm not sure how to monitor my cats/evap status if there is no P1000 to clear.

I took mine over to DynotuneMP in Hampshire IL. a few weeks back , had Mike hook up his emissions scanner to check for any emish system issues since I've had them before when the foulers get dirty. No problems found and passed the next day, I'm pretty sure he would check this for you also before you take another test, as you don't want to fail multiple times.

 

[winslow16]

Alright. I installed the another new emission tune but I still get no P1000. I can't remember if the code pops up right away or after awhile. If no P1000, how do I know when my cats/evap are ready?
I went thru the test today and this is what I got.
Cats not ready
Heated cats (?) not supported
Evap not ready
O2 sensors ready
So looks like my O2 sensors are on but I'm not sure how to monitor my cats/evap status if there is no P1000 to clear.

you might not be showing the p1000 code because it can be turned off in the tune. if you know a show that you can pay for for inspection you can have everything set to unsupported and you can "legally" pass emissions since you wont have any NOT READY but you will just need someone to over look that