Engine build question?

[stang8psi]

and you'll be close to 1000whp. thats where the problem comes in the block can't support it and the pressure.. so it's no different than a 9.5:1 motor and 22lbs of boost ! you will be at the same power as the 18lbs but adding more heat and pressure. if you run say 18lbs on a low comp motor the power will be a lot lower.

 

[BruceH]

Guys,

This link will take you to a bunch of engine and drivetrain calculators. Play around and see what the boost compression will be with 10 or 11. You can also see what effect decking the block, chamber cc, dish cc, and thickness of head gaskets has on compression. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

BTW, don't believe everything you may read on the internet. Some of it is complete bullshit generated by people with zero experience who only repeat what the cool kids said. Stay away from the fanboy forums and your own research. The information is out there but sometimes you have to dig. It will save you money in the long run.

Good luck on the build.

 

[Flapjack]

Have You Tried Calling Tousley, That Was Alot Easier Than Going Through Their Site.

How do you end up title-casing all your words??

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[stang8psi]

I hope thats not targeted to one of us? I actually building my own motor.... can't say the same for some!

 

[BruceH]

I hope thats not targeted to one of us? I actually building my own motor.... can't say the same for some!

No, that's not the intent at all. I've seen people blow a lot of money on a shops reputation and get screwed over. We all work hard for our money and I'd just hate to see someone get screwed over. A search on this site will turn up bad motor builders and vendors. They can't get the bad press removed because this site is self supporting. IMO it's one of the few places where people with experience provide solid advice or experiences.

In this thread you have someone with 5.0 experience, DrTriton. Not only has he built them but he's also been around for the tear down which is where you really see how well the components are working and wearing. If I was building a 5.0 I'd be picking his brain.

 

[mr. anderson]

+1 on building my own when the time comes. every thing I've put on the car I've done myself so far. only thing I don't do is tuning and machining.

yup, the compression ratio is just one of many but it gives you a good idea to start out with to get an idea to what your working with.

E=C((B/14.7+1)
E= effective compression
C=static compression
B= Boost PSI
14.7 = 1 bar of boost.

so for me
E=11((12/14.7)+1)
E= 11((.8163)+1)
E=11(1.8163)
E=19.9795
so my effective compression right now is close to 20:1 at full boost. does that mean a whole lot? not really, but it should open the eyes to some that think these are the engine of old with 9.5:1 compression ratio and pumping 14+ pounds of boost ok. I am at the end of the safe tuning scale on 91 octane tune. especially on the stock lower end and that really says alot about the stoutness of the non forged botom end in these cars. that is for sure.
It just reminds me every day, I really need to get my methanol kit installed and even more, I gotta put the forged bits in it.

 

[DrTriton]

It all really depends on how much of a factor reliability is to you. All our high HP applications running 8 and 9 second quarter mile times use the 9.5:1 engine.

Can you make 1000 whp using an 11:1 engine, sure. I personally wouldn't do it - not going to debate why. We've built a few hundred of these engines now and learned a thing or two along the way. We've had great success. Enough said.