Can you reverse mount the stock intake?

[Lazy Racer]

Am I right in thinking the piping would run (crudely speaking) from the exhausts, through the firewall and into the 'cooler' then out and up to the turbos and into the motor? Would it take longer for the turbos to spool up and therefore have loads of lag?

Trying to understand the logic better (not criticising, learning!)

 

[mustanggt0405]

Who makes a watercooled kit?

Nobody - that's who. Have to do it yourself if you want it.

Not to get too far off topic, but I have often wondered why someone couldnt create a turbo kit that used the vortech aftercooler.

I have made my FI decision but I think it would be a slick set up.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Not to get too far off topic, but I have often wondered why someone couldnt create a turbo kit that used the vortech aftercooler.

I have made my FI decision but I think it would be a slick set up.

Funny you mention that cause I was asking the same thing about 2 years ago...lol I even thought back then that would be the easiest way to convert a turbo kit to water cooled.

In my particular case, I want a GIANT cooler to be able to hold up in street driving with 1200+ hp. If I use one, it would probably be the 2000 hp model and I would mount it in the passenger footwell so I could still keep a passenger seat and someone could still sit in there. I would side mount the cooler so a passenger could put there feet on top of it if they wanted. Mounting it this way would also take less piping and be more efficient as it would be even closer to the source.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Now slow down a minute and think about the science involved here. When you were draining the water from the reservoir after a run, did you notice how warm the water was? Or, then after you packed in some ice, and you turned on the pump, did you notice the incoming water being quite warm for a few seconds, and then it got nice and cold?

Well, that is heat transfer. The water got hot because it was removing the heat from the air that passed over it. That "little brick" does what it was designed to do. No, it's not going to be as efficient as an ultra-large-race-car-only type system... but for a street/strip application, its fine. Especially when used in conjunction with an ice box at the track.

Makes sense. I guess that's why the bigger resevoirs helps because it's more volume of cold water to use before the 'brick' pulls all the cold out of it. More water = more the 'brick' can use to cool. You are the engineer - not me - makes sense...

 

[ChevyKiller]

I assume that means the custom Killer Chiller is a dead project, correct?

yes.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Am I right in thinking the piping would run (crudely speaking) from the exhausts, through the firewall and into the 'cooler' then out and up to the turbos and into the motor? Would it take longer for the turbos to spool up and therefore have loads of lag?

Trying to understand the logic better (not criticising, learning!)

No - not at all. The turbos feed into the cooler and then it is routed into the intake. This is the reasoning behind the whole thread of reverse mounting the stock intake. The travel from the cooler to intake is minimal - especially since I am planning on putting the cooler in the passenger footwell. Once the air is cooled, it's travel is only about 2' and then it's going right into the motor.

With a trans brake and my cubic inches, I should have no trouble spooling 67's. However, I'm not taking any chances and leaving my nitrous on there for now. I don't think I'll need it but worst case scenario - I just squeeze out of the hole till just before the turbos kick in.

With my motor and the trans brake, I highly doubt I'll need it - but it's there just in case. If it turns out I don't need it - then I just sell the N20 kit.

I still have my giant 16 gallon resevoir in my trunk and this would work perfect for the turbo kit. I could still load that thing with ice if I needed it to keep the air in check.

 

[mustanggt0405]

Funny you mention that cause I was asking the same thing about 2 years ago...lol I even thought back then that would be the easiest way to convert a turbo kit to water cooled.

In my particular case, I want a GIANT cooler to be able to hold up in street driving with 1200+ hp. If I use one, it would probably be the 2000 hp model and I would mount it in the passenger footwell so I could still keep a passenger seat and someone could still sit in there. I would side mount the cooler so a passenger could put there feet on top of it if they wanted. Mounting it this way would also take less piping and be more efficient as it would be even closer to the source.

Before the whipple I was contemplating a non intercooled turbo horsepower single kit and eventually trying the aftercooler but I couldnt find any info anywhere so decided it would easier to get the whipple.

In regards to mounting the cooler since you are a "custom" kind of guy.

Would it be possible to hollow out behind the dash for the cooler? Remove the passenger airbag and glove compartment, and re-engineer some supports around it. Then it wouldnt impinge on the cabin and be very stealth. Plus then you could just have 1 bend to the TB. Water lines from the trunk could come in from under the car and up the A pillar area or under the center console.

Just a thought.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Before the whipple I was contemplating a non intercooled turbo horsepower single kit and eventually trying the aftercooler but I couldnt find any info anywhere so decided it would easier to get the whipple.

In regards to mounting the cooler since you are a "custom" kind of guy.

Would it be possible to hollow out behind the dash for the cooler? Remove the passenger airbag and glove compartment, and re-engineer some supports around it. Then it wouldnt impinge on the cabin and be very stealth. Plus then you could just have 1 bend to the TB. Water lines from the trunk could come in from under the car and up the A pillar area or under the center console.

Just a thought.

Actually, this is precisely what I would do. The trouble is, the cooler is HUGE. It still has to be a little in the back end of the passenger footwell. But the way I am thinking of doing it (like you described) - a person could still easily sit in the passenger seat.

 

[mustanggt0405]

Sorry, I am also an engineer so I am picturing it in my head.

I dont know what you are planning but I would think it is all about surface area so it doesnt necessarily and be bulkier than the passenger dash area. Something Dual pass with large fittings in and out.

I wonder if you could use carbon fiber since it is so heat resistant. I remember when I used to ride a sportbike I had a carbon fiber can and even after an hour or tearing around you could put your hand directly on it and it was barely warm.

I wish I lived out west it would be great to follow along and create something totally custom.

I will be out in Barstow (FT Irwin) in Feb but will be working.

 

[ChevyKiller]

well keep me posted when you're there cause I go to vegas a lot and making a pit stop at barstow to say hi wouldn't be a problem.

The coolers I need come in ratings - 1000 hp, 2000 hp, and 3000 hp but it's rated to the flywheel. I would want to run 1200 to the tires so I need the 2000 hp model. The 1000 would fit without being on the floor, but the 2000 is just big enough that it would take the back end of the passenger footwell as well - but - like I said, it wouldn't be that bad and someone will still be able to easily sit in the passenger seat (if I can find anyone brave enough)

As far as CF - I suppose it could be made but that would be PRICEY. I could also do an overlay on the unit and it would be much cheaper - but I don't know how much an 'overlay' would help. Something to think about though. I could get an overlay for a couple hundred bucks so it wouldn't be a biggie - but, like I said, don't know if a CF 'overlay' would do anything other than look pretty.

If that's the case, I'll just stick to a smooth high polish and it will look nice.

 

[mustanggt0405]

Should be interesting. I would also be curious how well Meth injection would compare to the set up you are discussing.

Well I fly in and out of Vegas when I go out there. One of the small perk's of visiting for Irwin.

I will be in Vegas 2/7 and 2/13-2/14 time frame. I will PM you.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Great - if there are any UFC fights around that time - chances are I will be there...

I would not use meth an any modular motor set-up - but that's just my opinion.

 

[MLC40]

yes.

Do you mind sharing who you were working with? I am planning on this mod this year.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Do you mind sharing who you were working with? I am planning on this mod this year.

No problem - his name is steve and he has kits in stock. The one we were working on was a giant model but he has small and medium kits he can put together quickly. (818) 648-0331

In my case, I just decided not to do it and lose my AC altogether.

 

[05mustang_TT_charged]

i was going to use the little "BRICK" to cool the air down. If you don't think it is efficient take it out and see what your IAT's would be. Around 200-250 degrees instead of 100 degrees. I didn't want to invest $6k+ in a turbo system and only be able to sell the 2.6H head unit.

I have started on a 1992 Foxbody that will be getting a 408 and twin 61mm turbos with an air to water intercooler in the back seat area so I can keep the 2 front seats. The recommended intercooler setup for it is barely bigger than the KB supplied one on my 05. They work damn good since water has a better transfer of heat than air.

 

[ChevyKiller]

i was going to use the little "BRICK" to cool the air down. If you don't think it is efficient take it out and see what your IAT's would be. Around 200-250 degrees instead of 100 degrees. I didn't want to invest $6k+ in a turbo system and only be able to sell the 2.6H head unit.

I have started on a 1992 Foxbody that will be getting a 408 and twin 61mm turbos with an air to water intercooler in the back seat area so I can keep the 2 front seats. The recommended intercooler setup for it is barely bigger than the KB supplied one on my 05. They work damn good since water has a better transfer of heat than air.

I don't know about that. I would never use that KB unit with a turbo set-up and highly doubt it is even possible. All of the 'GOOD' A/W coolers I have seen are at least 5 times the size of that 'brick' or bigger.

I never said the 'brick' didn't do anything. I just said it is one of the big limitations of screw blowers in general - which it is. My A/W I would get would not be the 'best' or the 'biggest' - and even it is almost 2'x2'...

If I do the Twin turbo set-up I'm thinking of - I will keep both my front seats as well and almost full interior.

I don't really want to shell out the cash right now - especially any more on this car, but everything I know now, I know I could build one of the baddest street set-ups on the planet. So it's very tempting...

 

[MLC40]

No problem - his name is steve and he has kits in stock. The one we were working on was a giant model but he has small and medium kits he can put together quickly. (818) 648-0331

In my case, I just decided not to do it and lose my AC altogether.

Thank you.

 

[thunderstang]

I have been fallowing a long and was wondering could it be possiable to do a double intercoller. Run your boost from the turbos to the under the dash water to air intercoller than as your intake run the "brick". Have two seperate resivors for ice water. Would this help out at all? It's an out in left field question.

 

[thunderstang]

Ok I saw this a while back and just wanted to throw it out there. I just found the aricle again online. (google compound boost 2003 cobra mustang) It's an article from MM&FF. They ran twin 66mm turbos threw a roots-style eaton supercharger. They pulled 1,188hp and 1,015ftb on a street car. The compound boost actually lost peek power over strait twins but the hp & torque curve was way stronger. The boost was 27psi out of the turbos and 44psi manifold pressure, this was with the stock eaton pullie. And with the big intercooler idea it could be dangerous. It was a good article to read but the dyno graphs went by mph rather then rpm, that threw me off a bit.

 

[ChevyKiller]

I was going to answer your first post but your second post answered it for yourself.

Specifically, the 'brick' cooler in the TS set-ups are attached to the blower. I see no logical way to use it without the blower (why I told 05_mustangKB I didn't think it was even possible).

Now, twin 67's alone - I could NEVER max them out on the stock computer. I figure those things by themselves are good for 1400-1500 rwhp by themselves through an auto. I don't think it is possible to control that power through a stock computer and you'd have to go a standalone. Anything over 1000 rwhp gets extremely tricky to run through the stock computer.

If I go this route, my goal is to get around 1000 to the wheels and try to push for 1200 but no way I would ever be able to go over that on a stock computer and I'm committed to having a stock computer 3V set-up.

So, basically, there is no logical need for a blower to be there.

Nope, if you wanted insane power, then the best bet is to just get a bigger motor with more cubes and go stand alone and you could go ridiculous with twins.

What makes this idea so appealing to me is the fact I have the cubes. With 330 ci, I think twin 67's would be WICKED on my car. The main thing for me is I would never put a turbo on my car unless it was an efficient water-cooled set-up.