Clutch Selection for 05 GT

Grabber

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Hey guys,

I did some searching and only came across a few threads here about clutches, and need some specifics.

I've ready that Exedy Mach clutches are the way to go on 05+ Cars due to the very few issues and reliability.

Currently, I am looking at the following.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-stage2-clutch-0510gt.html

With the following Flywheel

http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-race-flywheel-9604-6bolt.html

Also considering upgrading the Slave while I replace the Clutch/Flywheel

http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-tob-slavecylinder-0513.html

I'm not very technical and am always scared of ordering transmission components as I am not sure as to what I need and if it will truly fit my application.

Do the Clutch and Flywheel above work on a 5 Speed manual 05 GT, and do you suggest getting a better slave cylinder/throwout bearing?

I greatly appreciate any help here.

-Chris
 

NUTCASE

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if you go with the clutch linked above I heavily suggest getting the slave with it.

also installation is key on that thing. if you search there are many complaints about that clutch not disengaging and eating slaves. I had problems also but mine boiled down to installer error.

with that clutch the pedal weight will be heavier than stock but driving it and slipping it will be to easy. it is a great clutch for a street driven car where the grab of a metallic clutch is not desired.
 

hamish

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I just went from a lightweight aluminum flywheel to a stock steel one, I can tell you that for a much better driving experience go with steel.
 

skwerl

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I had the Exedy 500 and pulled it out after 3-4 months. The pedal is very heavy and the engagement point is almost at the floor. It doesn't seem like a big deal but it completely changed the feel of the car and made me not want to drive it any more. I hated it so much I ended up replacing the entire transmission with the T56.

Do yourself a favor and upgrade a tiny bit more to the McLeod RST. The pedal is lighter than stock and the engagement is smooth but forceful. I love driving my car again.

I agree with your choice of a lightweight steel flywheel, not aluminum. The aluminum is too light.
 

Grabber

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I had the Exedy 500 and pulled it out after 3-4 months. The pedal is very heavy and the engagement point is almost at the floor. It doesn't seem like a big deal but it completely changed the feel of the car and made me not want to drive it any more. I hated it so much I ended up replacing the entire transmission with the T56.

Do yourself a favor and upgrade a tiny bit more to the McLeod RST. The pedal is lighter than stock and the engagement is smooth but forceful. I love driving my car again.

I agree with your choice of a lightweight steel flywheel, not aluminum. The aluminum is too light.

I do prefer the heavier clutch as it is what I am used to. However, the RST appears to be a twin disc. Will I need a flywheel upgrade with it, or is that a separate piece? I cannot tell and I cannot find Mcleod Flywheels on AM.

That is a heft jump in price, but, it may be an option.
 

firestang70

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I used a Spec 3+ with aluminum flywheel. No issues and good pedal feel.
 

k_aimone

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I had the spec II+ and hated every minute of it. I had it re shimmed twice, installed the che brace, and swapped the hyd tube with the lethal piece and the car should not shift over 5000RPM. Swapped in the Mach Exedy 500 with slave and haven't had a problem since. The pedal is heavier but that is what I like. I also have the fidenaza aluminum flywheel and my car is bolt on only. With the DR cams and 4.10s I don't notice any drive ability problems.
 

skwerl

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I do prefer the heavier clutch as it is what I am used to. However, the RST appears to be a twin disc. Will I need a flywheel upgrade with it, or is that a separate piece? I cannot tell and I cannot find Mcleod Flywheels on AM.

That is a heft jump in price, but, it may be an option.

When I swapped in the new transmission and RST clutch, I kept the Exedy flywheel as it only had about 1200 miles on it. The stock flywheel will also work if you want to have it resurfaced (turned).

I did not like the heavier clutch at all. I've driven lots of trucks in my life and I didn't want something that drove like a truck. I bought the sports car to have fun, not to work out my leg on the clutch pedal. If you like you can ask Taxman what he thinks about the Exedy 500 clutch (he bought mine and didn't think the heavier pedal would bother him).
 

hamish

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I know the 600 comes with a beefy pressure plate, and I believe the 500 does aswell.
But I think roush used to sell a p-51 clutch that was the 500 with a spacer ring to accommodate the stock pressure plate.

This would more than likely alleviate the heavy feel.
Maybe someone with the roush one can chime in.
 

NUTCASE

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something I forgot to mention last night. the most of the exedy clutches being sold from vendors right now are older models in stock that exedy does not actually make any more.

exedy has a whole new system right now for how they do the clutches for 05+ mustangs and at the 600 power level I think they use a twin disc design now.

go look at exedys site. also there are one or two vendors that have the new style exedy clutches.

if you don't want to take the gamble on a 600 or 500 I say take a look at those. but keep in mind when I had my 600 issues I found people complaining about almost every other aftermarket clutch except for McLeod. modified cars = modified problems.
 

Taxman

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I just don't like the feel of the Exedy. It's holding all my power, but it sucks for driver comfort. I'm yanking it and putting a McLeod in as soon as my budget allows.
 

Grabber

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Hey guys, just wanted to bump this up.

I spoke to one of my local shops that does amazing work and is famous in my area. He's never had one negative thing said against him. Dean's Performance recommended going with a Spec 2 and Aluminum Flywheel for my application. I ordered everything and should have it installed by 9/6/13.

I'll post some feedback on how it works out.

I know there were bad reviews of clattering, vibrations, etc. however, after having a 2+ on my 03 Cobra, I loved the feel of the Spec. Had a very similar feel to stock, minor vibrations (goes without saying it is an aftermarket clutch designed to handle more power than stock, so it will feel a bit rougher IMO) and I loved every minute of it.

I know Install is the big thing here, so, I can surely count on Dean's to do an amazing and clean job. All in all, he is charging me $250 to install the clutch, flywheel, change the fluid (I am supplying RP Synchromax) and a new Slave/Throwout Bearing. It think it is a very competitive price.

Thank you again for the opinions and information guys.
 

NUTCASE

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good luck with it. I went a little overboard getting the mach 600 on mine because I have been caught in round robin situations at the track and had clutches overheat slowing down the car.

I also stuck with the stock flywheel because stock offers a great marrage of driveability, launch, and rev IMO.

also if your installer does not vaccume bleed the clutch, then you vaccume bleed the clutch. I think that is where some people get thier problems and that is where some of my problems came from. depending on your year you might not have a bleed nipple and even with that it is a serious PIA to reach. some people say you can just jack up the driver side of the car and pump the pedal 1,000 times but both myself and a friend of mind have tried that and for some reason the car will loose pedal over time. when I vaccum bled my clutch it was the easiest bleed I had ever done and the pedal was better than when I first got the car.

I also hope your installer is what people say he is. my installer got all sorts of rave reviews. but when I went to correct his work I beat his time by about 3 hrs, and did significantly better work in a condo parking lot with my ameture level tools.
 

Grabber

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Hey guys, just updating this.

The spec 2 and aluminum fly was installed. So far so good. A bit firmer than stock and it engages much better.

However, I feel like my car is running differently. The far feels like it accelerates much better, but idles a bit rougher.

Do you think this could be a result of the clutch?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
 

BruceH

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good luck with it. I went a little overboard getting the mach 600 on mine because I have been caught in round robin situations at the track and had clutches overheat slowing down the car.

I also stuck with the stock flywheel because stock offers a great marrage of driveability, launch, and rev IMO.

also if your installer does not vaccume bleed the clutch, then you vaccume bleed the clutch. I think that is where some people get thier problems and that is where some of my problems came from. depending on your year you might not have a bleed nipple and even with that it is a serious PIA to reach. some people say you can just jack up the driver side of the car and pump the pedal 1,000 times but both myself and a friend of mind have tried that and for some reason the car will loose pedal over time. when I vaccum bled my clutch it was the easiest bleed I had ever done and the pedal was better than when I first got the car.

I also hope your installer is what people say he is. my installer got all sorts of rave reviews. but when I went to correct his work I beat his time by about 3 hrs, and did significantly better work in a condo parking lot with my ameture level tools.

That's the fanboy effect. It's usually people who have no experience with what they are talking about passing on info from others who have no idea what they are talking about.
 

NUTCASE

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Hey guys, just updating this.

The spec 2 and aluminum fly was installed. So far so good. A bit firmer than stock and it engages much better.

However, I feel like my car is running differently. The far feels like it accelerates much better, but idles a bit rougher.

Do you think this could be a result of the clutch?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

I want to point a finger at the lighter flywheel, but it could be a number of things. when the trans gets taken out the engine moves around and there are wires and things in there that get pushed around when the trans goes back in.

does it run really rough or more like a subtle difference.
 

Grabber

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It is a subtle difference. Slightly rougher idle. Could be I did not remember how id idled since the car sat for two weeks at my house then it was driven to the shop and left for another week.

Could an 02 sensor not plugged in cause a difference such as this? No cel's or any other lights hinting something is off.

I'll probably check for codes tomorrow and check the wires and what not.

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BruceH

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The front o2 sensors could be swapped. It's easy to do but the results are usually a little more pronounced than a rougher idle. What happens is the short term correction is applied to the wrong bank which causes it to be even farther off.
 

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