Sway bar delete?

Falkinman

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The front end leans a little bit more when you cut the wheel. And I can tell the front end lifts more on acceleration.
 

Falkinman

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Yup that was the whole idea. It's just a little disturbing making my car handle worse! I knew it was going to happen though.
 

Greg Hazlett

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I did the FSB delete on my 2010 and the 2013 and I can't tell it is gone...not sure if the STB and better springs/shocks help plus I don't take on/off ramps like a madman.
 

W3bb3r04

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I pulled mine, but I have Koni yellows, so I just cranked mine two turns in the front to compensate. I need to get the radiator support though!
 

mr. anderson

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I pulled mine, but I have Koni yellows, so I just cranked mine two turns in the front to compensate. I need to get the radiator support though!

when your drag racing, you want the fronts set to its softest setting. rears should be stiffened up, try 1/2 turn at first and work you way up.
 

Ks_S197

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I just installed the UPR piece on my 07. It works great. Very easy mod. It is amazing the difference in weight transfer and I can't tell much difference (if any) in cornering characteristics.
 

Falkinman

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I just ordered mine. I asked if I could have it in black instead of blue and they said no because they get them from Granatelli that way. I'll just sand it and rattle can it black before I install it. Thanks for your help!
 

Greg Hazlett

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It is a pretty simple install; support the radiator with a jack/wood, remove the 4 15 or 18mm nuts holding the stock heavy support on, remove the nuts on the end links and out it comes; install of the UPR/BMR it the reverse with the exception of the sway bar end links, they won't be there.
 

skwerl

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When installing the new radiator support, make sure the upper radiator mounts actually go up into the upper brackets. It is worthwhile to remove the plastic radiator cover under the hood before hand so you can see the radiator and make sure it's aligned properly before torquing down the lower radiator support underneath. Otherwise it's easy to break stuff.
 

Falkinman

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Plus you have to remove the brace that goes from the rad support to the engine crossmember. And there's nothing left to attach the back of the air dam plastic to afterwards. I ended up using wire ties. Oh yeah there's also a brake line that's left dangling there. I decided to bend it a little and wire tie that to the new rad support. I sanded mine down before installing it and painted over the ugly blue powder coating with some semi flat black. You can really tell its not there when you drive the car. Giving the steering wheel a quick shake back and forth makes the car roll way more and it leans more in a turn. There is definitely more rise to the front end during launch and acceleration which is the whole reason for the part. So it's doing its job and I'm pretty happy with it.
 

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