Heating up and cutting power

BlackMustang690

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Sorry about this really long post.
Info about the car 2007 gt with a p1 procharger with stock radiator( 50-50 mix with a bottle of water wetter), upgraded 14in fan and shroud, Aeroforce gauges, usual for daily driving in houston traffic IAT 105-120 and 195-210. So this past weekend I ran my car in a circuit track I did 4 (25min) session on Saturday and 4(25min) sessions on Sunday and it started heating on Sunday afternoon. On Saturday weather was mid to high 80’s low humidity, I had only one issue with my car, I had just done 3.73 gears and a new diff cover (steeda ford racing) and added 3qts of diff oil and 1 bottle of friction modifier and it was spilling from the breather enough to cover the whole bottom right side of the car. I wasn’t too worried since it was the end of Saturday. Since then I have fixed this problem by ordering a JLT axel expansion tank. Then next day on Sunday morning temps were 70s 50% humidity, I ran my 2 session in the morning 1st (8:30am) and second at 11:00 and the car did very well. The highest I saw IAT were 130s and coolant temp 210. The real issue was Sunday afternoon temp were 90’s and same humidity 3rd session I was only able to run for 15min out of the 25min when I saw my stock temp gauge almost pegging out at H, the only reason I noticed it was because I was heading onto a straight away and I had no power to pass other cars. The coolant temp was 242 and ITA was 115 at the time. I pulled on to the pits and temp started dropping quickly back between RM on scale (Normal). The final session of the day I was also only able to run 15min out of the 25min with the coolant temp above 240, when I pit in I check my oil and it was really hot to the point it was smoking, I did not have a temp probe so I have no idea what the temp was. The coolant temperatures would actually rise on the long straight away where I would think most of the cooling would happen due to the larger airflow. I have the stock gt grille with fog lights on. So I have come up with some suggestion but still would like to get help with this issue.
1. Buy an oil cooler kit with a built it fan, to get the oil temp down, this unit has a built in thermostat at 180 so the small fan wont kick on till temp is reached
2. Buy a Fan controller unit and set it at a lower temp 150-240 range, this contains a relay that will jump the circuit and is adjustable by a small screw for the right temp
3. Buy an aluminum radiatior, I can get a new mishimoto for about $200 but have heard a couple of bad reviews so the other choices are CSF, Granatellie or fluidyne that are 450 range.
4. Buy a 170 thermostat, that could affect my tune since the s197 run prime at 190 from what I’ve read.
5. Remove the fog light to open up the area and cover with a metal mesh.
 

stkjock

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BlackMustang690

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Yes I have read all those thread, first the guy fixed it with the thermostat and other two with an electric water pump. I have those other ideas and wanted opinion from members in the forum to see what they would recommend. Also when I poured the axel gear oil I put 3 qts and I was still more than 1in below the fill hole.
 
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stkjock

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Also when I poured the axel gear oil I put 3 qts and I was still more than 1in below the fill hole.

unless you bought a high capacity cover (which I don't think it is based on your description) the manual clearly states the rear diff capacity.

4.25 pints (2.0L)
 

BruceH

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:beerchug2: too bad its still my daily and really don't have and E85 station nearby

Run gas with a gas tune and e85 with an e85 tune. Switch over prior to race day and switch back after.

I have my tunes set up so they will still allow me to run the other fuel if I get caught in a bad situation. The o2 sensors are going to correct to lambda in closed loop so as long as the ecu doesn't think a 40% fuel trim is a problem it runs fine. Of course it would require a very light foot running gas on an e85 tune, you would want to stay in closed loop and it would only be done in an emergency.
 

Racer47

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E85 is not the universal fix for everyone

1. Buy an oil cooler kit with a built in fan - maybe
Oil coolers always help but this is not likely enough to to fix your situation

2. Buy a Fan controller unit - no
You can control the fan turn on temp with a tuner. At the temps you were running the fan was already running on high. Plus at track speeds you don't even need a fan.

3.
Buy an aluminum radiator - yes
Yes you need a better radiator. I have the Fluidyne 2 core with 1" tubes. The newer Fluidyne is 3 cores (or rows) with smaller tubes. I think they are 3/4" for a total of 2 1/4" instead of the older 2" total. Either one will help a lot. For track use run it with 95% water and a little anti-freeze or with a bottle of water wetter. Anti freeze does not transfer heat as well as water does. I dont have any experience with the Misimoto but it should help a lot too.

4. Buy a 170 thermostat - probably
I don't even remember what the stock thermostat is anymore. I run a 180F. 170F is fine too but it will not fix your problem. Once you get past the temp it is open. I would just put in a 180F when you do #3 and refill with water

5. Remove the fog lights - no
At track speeds you are getting plenty of air flow. This will not help. If you want to do something up front, make sure your new aluminum radiator is sealed well on the side so air can't go around it.

6. Run with the heater on - yes
Put the heater on full hot, the fan on full high and point the vents away from you and out the windows as much as possible. This is not enough to eliminate the need for a better radiator but it does help.
 
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BlackMustang690

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E85 is not the universal fix for everyone

1. Buy an oil cooler kit with a built in fan - maybe
Oil coolers always help but this is not likely enough to to fix your situation

2. Buy a Fan controller unit - no
You can control the fan turn on temp with a tuner. At the temps you were running the fan was already running on high. Plus at track speeds you don't even need a fan.

3. Buy an aluminum radiator - yes
Yes you need a better radiator. I have the Fluidyne 2 core with 1" tubes. The newer Fluidyne is 3 cores (or rows) with smaller tubes. I think they are 3/4" for a total of 2 1/4" instead of the older 2" total. Either one will help a lot. For track use run it with 95% water and a little anti-freeze or with a bottle of water wetter. Anti freeze does not transfer heat as well as water does. I dont have any experience with the Misimoto but it should help a lot too.

4. Buy a 170 thermostat - probably
I don't even remember what the stock thermostat is anymore. I run a 180F. 170F is fine too but it will not fix your problem. Once you get past the temp it is open. I would just put in a 180F when you do #3 and refill with water

5. Remove the fog lights - no
At track speeds you are getting plenty of air flow. This will not help. If you want to do something up front, make sure your new aluminum radiator is sealed well on the side so air can't go around it.

6. Run with the heater on - yes
Put the heater on full hot, the fan on full high and point the vents away from you and out the windows as much as possible. This is not enough to eliminate the need for a better radiator but it does help.

Thanks for your reply.

I have ordered 170f thermostat and looking into radiators. I can get the mishimoto for 200 but I wouldn't want to be kicking my self later for it. the only issue I see with a thicker radiator is my coolant reservoir is already rubbing against my intake/throttle tube from the procharger, so I'm not sure if there will be enough space for it. Next track day is Oct 25-26 so I hope the weather is cool by then.
 
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Racer47

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If I remember correctly, the thicker radiator moved everything back by a 1/2" or so. The front surface remained in the same place but the fan and shroud moved back.

When you change thermostats just refill with all plain distilled water. There will still be enough anti-freeze left in the system for lube and anti corrosion. Just remember to drain and add more for winter.

Cooler temps, less anti-freeze, run the heater if needed and you should be able to make it through.

If it gets hot, easy off on the straights, pull off line, go to half throttle in 5th gear, give it some time to cool. Then go hard for the rest of the lap.
 
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BlackMustang690

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If I remember correctly, the thicker radiator moved everything back by a 1/2" or so. The front surface remained in the same place but the fan and shroud moved back.

When you change thermostats just refill with all plain distilled water. There will still be enough anti-freeze left in the system for lube and anti corrosion. Just remember to drain and add more for winter.

Cooler temps, less anti-freeze, run the heater if needed and you should be able to make it through.

If it gets hot, easy off on the straights, pull off line, go to half throttle in 5th gear, give it some time to cool. Then go hard for the rest of the lap.

Yeah if it moves it back 1/2 in there's no way it's going to fit, I have no room for it.
 

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