W3bb3r04 build thread

W3bb3r04

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Well everything looked flat with a 12" straight edge. Also here is a pic of both sides of both head gaskets
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Anyone have ideas?
 
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dysan

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If I remember correctly, if you get a decent amount of water/coolant in the oil pan it should settle on the bottom of the pan beneath the oil and would be the first thing that comes out when you drain the pan. If you saw a small amount come out last I would have to believe that was stuff dripping down slowly after removing the heads.
 

W3bb3r04

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If I remember correctly, if you get a decent amount of water/coolant in the oil pan it should settle on the bottom of the pan beneath the oil and would be the first thing that comes out when you drain the pan. If you saw a small amount come out last I would have to believe that was stuff dripping down slowly after removing the heads.
Well I actually drained it first but it could have actually dripped off the bottom of the pan since the water pump had been leaking
 

W3bb3r04

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Well I double checked the heads and block. It passed a .0015 feeler gauge across a 12" straight edge. Any other thoughts?
 

dysan

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I would get those valves replaced and possibly new guides installed as well with any ptv contact. Now you need to figure out why that happened.
 

W3bb3r04

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I would get those valves replaced and possibly new guides installed as well with any ptv contact. Now you need to figure out why that happened.
Well I had slack in the timing chain on that side, bad tensioner. It wasn't holding pressure on the guide and had slack on the straight guide side suggesting the cam had moved. Do you think the bent valves would account for the smoke out of catch can?
 

dysan

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Well I had slack in the timing chain on that side, bad tensioner. It wasn't holding pressure on the guide and had slack on the straight guide side suggesting the cam had moved. Do you think the bent valves would account for the smoke out of catch can?

Sure they could. You could get oil and blowby through the valve seals and guides if the valves are bent.
 

retfr8flyr

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I would replace that piston also. That's some fairly serious contact and I wouldn't trust that piston under boost. Was that the only piston with contact? I had to replace all my valves, guides and pistons on the pass side, from contact, when my phaser came apart and the cam jumped time.
 

W3bb3r04

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I would replace that piston also. That's some fairly serious contact and I wouldn't trust that piston under boost. Was that the only piston with contact? I had to replace all my valves, guides and pistons on the pass side, from contact, when my phaser came apart and the cam jumped time.

Damn this is so discouraging. Im so close to just buying a used coyote and dropping it in or just parting the car out and selling. Ive dropped so much money into it and just cant catch a break.

But yes it was the only piston with any contact.
 

Ingwe

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Noooooo! Don't do it! Been following this thread from the beginning. Absolutely love your car. Kind of build that inspires every one of us on the site.

Sure there's a lot of disappointment and it feels like you can't catch a break especially after dropping all that cash but just think back to the feeling you got when you put 700+hp through the wheels and the smile you must have had on your face. Dropping a coyote in will be more work, more money and you'd still have to forge the bottom end to get back to the power you want. Plus you've got the best looking model year so you can't get rid of it ;-)

Keep at it champ. You'll get there and when you do, you'll be wiser (albeit a little poorer) and it'll all have totally been worth it. We're rootin' for ya :beerchug2:
 

W3bb3r04

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Noooooo! Don't do it! Been following this thread from the beginning. Absolutely love your car. Kind of build that inspires every one of us on the site.

Sure there's a lot of disappointment and it feels like you can't catch a break especially after dropping all that cash but just think back to the feeling you got when you put 700+hp through the wheels and the smile you must have had on your face. Dropping a coyote in will be more work, more money and you'd still have to forge the bottom end to get back to the power you want. Plus you've got the best looking model year so you can't get rid of it ;-)

Keep at it champ. You'll get there and when you do, you'll be wiser (albeit a little poorer) and it'll all have totally been worth it. We're rootin' for ya :beerchug2:
Thanks man! I'm really not sure what I'm planning on yet. I figure I can drop a coyote in for about $1000 or so more than if I sell all my old stuff off. If I'm going to break into the bottom end I'm just ready to have something reliable again lol

It will definitely be less work to fix what I have now. I am going to pull the head apart with the possible damaged valves and assess the damage and then go from there. Im not going to tear into the bottom end again. If I pull this motor back out of the car it is not going back in again. Im hoping the damage to the head will be minimal. I will update the thread tomorrow.
 
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W3bb3r04

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Well the valves dont seem bent at all and the guides still have a tight fit on the valves and they still move through the guides smoothly
 

W3bb3r04

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I did the water test on the valve and it passed that too. I'm really leaning on going the coyote route at the moment. I have a buddy wanting to buy most of my parts
 

dysan

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Be different...do a big block ford and put the stock fuel injected setup on it! Something I'm considering in the future myself.
 

ROUSH06GA

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RJ, I'm actually doing a coyote swap currently. Have all the parts ready to install this weekend. I'm located close to Kingsport. If you wanna see the car/setup in person let me know.
 

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