GallopingFord
I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive
...finally....
Get it done before the show!!!
Get it done before the show!!!
Project Break a Boss
- Thread starter ford20
- Start date
Mystickeith50
Senior Member
Ugh that's pretty.
ford20
Senior Member
Well, here we are back from the dead! I just want to say that my Boss was built in December of 2010 so the part numbers may vary from what you might have. The best thing to always do is give your VIN# to your favorite Ford Store (in my case Steve@Tasca) and let them look up the parts for you.
Back in May, I got a call from Eric at JPC letting me know that Rich was coming to MD for his nephews graduation from Annapolis and had dropped off my shortblock and that it was all ready for whenever I would want to come and pick it up. Not long after I sent a couple of my guys down to MD and had them pick up the motor for me and it has long since sat under a rack in one of our warehouses until I had the funding to finish the rest of the motor. Fast forward to this weekend and I almost at the finish line! The only things that I am currently missing are the heads, head gaskets, lockouts, cams, engine sensors and I’m sure a bunch of miscellaneous odds and ends. I got ahold of Eric late on Friday and he told me the head gaskets and heads shipped from them on Friday, so I should hopefully have them on Tuesday and I will be that much closer to getting this completed.
On to the good shit! For anyone interested I have these exploded view of the parts list for the Boss and GT motors (this one is the Boss motor but they mostly share the same components, just different parts and subsequently, part numbers) if you want the GT version, let me know and I can get that to you.
Back in May, I got a call from Eric at JPC letting me know that Rich was coming to MD for his nephews graduation from Annapolis and had dropped off my shortblock and that it was all ready for whenever I would want to come and pick it up. Not long after I sent a couple of my guys down to MD and had them pick up the motor for me and it has long since sat under a rack in one of our warehouses until I had the funding to finish the rest of the motor. Fast forward to this weekend and I almost at the finish line! The only things that I am currently missing are the heads, head gaskets, lockouts, cams, engine sensors and I’m sure a bunch of miscellaneous odds and ends. I got ahold of Eric late on Friday and he told me the head gaskets and heads shipped from them on Friday, so I should hopefully have them on Tuesday and I will be that much closer to getting this completed.
On to the good shit! For anyone interested I have these exploded view of the parts list for the Boss and GT motors (this one is the Boss motor but they mostly share the same components, just different parts and subsequently, part numbers) if you want the GT version, let me know and I can get that to you.
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ford20
Senior Member
That being said, I got to work on getting the engine on the stand …. Although I jumped the gun a little :/ I wanted to go ahead and put the Rear main seal and retainer plate in before I bolted it up to the stand, but I didn’t have the rear main seal tool or the old seal, nor could I find a piece of PVC that was the same size so I can always put that on when I get the tool. As is, the shortblock isn’t that heavy so I can put it back up on the tailgate of the pickup in its crate and put it on then.
Retainer plate
Rear Main Seal
Retainer plate
Rear Main Seal
ford20
Senior Member
That was the first bit of misfortune, so I went on ahead and grabbed my oil pump. I looked at the crankshaft to locate the orientation of the two flat parts on my crankshaft. In the picture you can see that the flat part is at an 11:58 position, so what you do is you rotate the gears in the oil pump so that the subsequent marks align with the flat pieces on the crankshaft.
From there all you do is slide the oil pump flat up against the block and you can put your oil pump bolts and studs into place. I even had my helper with me today!
Here I ran into my second bit of misfortune, my torque wrench only goes down to 240 in/lbs. and 24 ft./lbs. so I can’t torque the bolts down on the oil pump. Well, that sucks but I can torque those down later. No biggie there, shit happens I guess. That’s what I get for not planning accordingly. Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance!
I will go over the torque sequences once I get the torque wrench as the oil pump has some specific requirements for the torque settings.
From there all you do is slide the oil pump flat up against the block and you can put your oil pump bolts and studs into place. I even had my helper with me today!
Here I ran into my second bit of misfortune, my torque wrench only goes down to 240 in/lbs. and 24 ft./lbs. so I can’t torque the bolts down on the oil pump. Well, that sucks but I can torque those down later. No biggie there, shit happens I guess. That’s what I get for not planning accordingly. Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance!
I will go over the torque sequences once I get the torque wrench as the oil pump has some specific requirements for the torque settings.
ford20
Senior Member
So I turned my attention next to the head studs. At least I can get those in without any issue. I grabbed the dowel pins for the heads (you should always get news ones for your build, they were like 4 bucks) and tapped them into place with my hammer. Once they reach the bottom they make a different sound when you hit them.
I ordered the block back in January and in the subsequent 5 months JPC and myself had forgotten if I actually had a 2013 block like the invoice stated or if that was just a place holder signifying a used black was used on the invoice so I talked to Eric at JPC about head bolt options and while he agreed that I would probably be fine with the TTY bolts, it never hurts to go with the ARP head studs. I agreed with that sentiment but my wallet was none too happy about hearing that haha. So I went and grabbed a head bolt from the Boss and proceeded to screw it into the block to see if it would go in. Sure enough it screwed in hand tight without issue. Well I guess that solves that debate!
Or so I thought …..
I went to go put the ARP studs in and they drop right to the bottom of the hole without touching a single thread ….. FUCKING FUCKING DICKHEADED FAT LEASBIAN WHO SEXUAL ASSAULTED A PENGUIN!!!!
FUCK
I can’t win, Uncle Murphy has struck again. Anything that could have gone wrong went wrong. I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come. I am thinking maybe either ARP labeled the wrong box or for whatever reason the 2012 head bolts will fit in the hole for a 2013 block after being stretched? Or if you see that I fucked something up, speak up and call me the retard.
I ordered the block back in January and in the subsequent 5 months JPC and myself had forgotten if I actually had a 2013 block like the invoice stated or if that was just a place holder signifying a used black was used on the invoice so I talked to Eric at JPC about head bolt options and while he agreed that I would probably be fine with the TTY bolts, it never hurts to go with the ARP head studs. I agreed with that sentiment but my wallet was none too happy about hearing that haha. So I went and grabbed a head bolt from the Boss and proceeded to screw it into the block to see if it would go in. Sure enough it screwed in hand tight without issue. Well I guess that solves that debate!
Or so I thought …..
I went to go put the ARP studs in and they drop right to the bottom of the hole without touching a single thread ….. FUCKING FUCKING DICKHEADED FAT LEASBIAN WHO SEXUAL ASSAULTED A PENGUIN!!!!
FUCK
I can’t win, Uncle Murphy has struck again. Anything that could have gone wrong went wrong. I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come. I am thinking maybe either ARP labeled the wrong box or for whatever reason the 2012 head bolts will fit in the hole for a 2013 block after being stretched? Or if you see that I fucked something up, speak up and call me the retard.
ford20
Senior Member
Well after today I was sort of bummed and I remember what Matt D said in his Coyote swap thread:
So, I ran into my bedroom and stared at Mt. Car parts and grabbed the 3 boxes at the bottom of the pile. I figured I shouldn’t lose motivation so let me see this beautiful thing on the motor. Too bad you are never going to see it once it is in. I dug through my parts bin and pulled out the baggie labeled Oil p/u tube and spacer and I threw those in “my parts washer” tubs and cleaned them off with some dawn, clean water and coffee filters since they are cheap and lint free. I went ahead and put the pickup tube spacer on, and then I grabbed my oil pan gasket/windage tray. While I am modeling my thread off of tmcolegr’s awesome build thread, you will notice no bare feet here! Only how fucking poor I am right now and hoping my shoes will last me another couple of weeks -_-
I took a look at it along with most every part I have put on to ensure there was no dust or debris that could get into the motor and cause damage and would you look at that … dust and junk!
One of the many things I distinctly remember from tmcolegr’s build thread is cleanliness is very important as well as check all your parts even new ones so I am being careful with the items I put on there. I wiped off the dirt and lubricated the gasket on both sides of the windage tray. Remember, the convex side faces up (just as it is in the picture. I then proceeded to grab my oil pump pick up tube and lubricated the gasket on that as well and put it into place.
I didn’t torque any of the pickup tube bolts or the spacer bolt as those are in/lbs. as well so I will get those specs when I do that. I then put the pièce de résistance on and turned the shortblock around and looked at it. It is starting to look like a real engine again!!!! Motivation returned!
I did not check pickup tube clearances yet as I didn’t torque anything down but once I do I will highlight the method in doing that as well.
So, I ran into my bedroom and stared at Mt. Car parts and grabbed the 3 boxes at the bottom of the pile. I figured I shouldn’t lose motivation so let me see this beautiful thing on the motor. Too bad you are never going to see it once it is in. I dug through my parts bin and pulled out the baggie labeled Oil p/u tube and spacer and I threw those in “my parts washer” tubs and cleaned them off with some dawn, clean water and coffee filters since they are cheap and lint free. I went ahead and put the pickup tube spacer on, and then I grabbed my oil pan gasket/windage tray. While I am modeling my thread off of tmcolegr’s awesome build thread, you will notice no bare feet here! Only how fucking poor I am right now and hoping my shoes will last me another couple of weeks -_-
I took a look at it along with most every part I have put on to ensure there was no dust or debris that could get into the motor and cause damage and would you look at that … dust and junk!
One of the many things I distinctly remember from tmcolegr’s build thread is cleanliness is very important as well as check all your parts even new ones so I am being careful with the items I put on there. I wiped off the dirt and lubricated the gasket on both sides of the windage tray. Remember, the convex side faces up (just as it is in the picture. I then proceeded to grab my oil pump pick up tube and lubricated the gasket on that as well and put it into place.
I didn’t torque any of the pickup tube bolts or the spacer bolt as those are in/lbs. as well so I will get those specs when I do that. I then put the pièce de résistance on and turned the shortblock around and looked at it. It is starting to look like a real engine again!!!! Motivation returned!
I did not check pickup tube clearances yet as I didn’t torque anything down but once I do I will highlight the method in doing that as well.
GallopingFord
I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive
10/10
ford20
Senior Member
I certainly could have done without that, it's going to be a push but I might not make it to AM with the car :/
ford20
Senior Member
Well, I got the head studs in. I ended up having to chase the threads in 2 holes (oddly enough right next to each other) and the studs threaded into place without issue. The issue I ran into was that the Tap that ARP sells you is 3.5” long and the threads start 3.4 inches into the block. Thankfully, by the grace of god the 5/16th deep socket was the perfect size to fit the end of the tap as well as the hole.
My contraption
I damn near shit my pants trying to decide should I continue at this point and potentially fuck myself or stop. I live dangerously and kept going, thankfully one more turn and it reached the bottom.
Then I can pull it out with my magnetic extension.
Now, all the studs are in their place and ready for the heads. I’m not too certain how important this is but after screwing the studs by hand, as per ARP instructions, into the holes and touching the bottom I measured them and they were all within 2 or 3 thousands of an inch (3.556” was a common number) minus 1 which was 3.49X".
Studs are in!! I also got my head gaskets and heads in from JPC yesterday so as soon as I can find the old head gaskets I will be putting the heads on to prevent anything from falling into the combustion chamber or cooling passages.
My contraption
I damn near shit my pants trying to decide should I continue at this point and potentially fuck myself or stop. I live dangerously and kept going, thankfully one more turn and it reached the bottom.
Then I can pull it out with my magnetic extension.
Now, all the studs are in their place and ready for the heads. I’m not too certain how important this is but after screwing the studs by hand, as per ARP instructions, into the holes and touching the bottom I measured them and they were all within 2 or 3 thousands of an inch (3.556” was a common number) minus 1 which was 3.49X".
Studs are in!! I also got my head gaskets and heads in from JPC yesterday so as soon as I can find the old head gaskets I will be putting the heads on to prevent anything from falling into the combustion chamber or cooling passages.
ford20
Senior Member
I just want to give a HUGE thank you and a shout out to Tad @ Freedom Racing. Some of you know Tad from S197forum or and others may not. Freedom Racing has all sorts of OEM tools that you can buy or rent for a reasonable price and their service is second to none. Every time I get in touch with Tad, it is unfortunately on a weekend and usually within 15 minutes or so I have a PM back from him. Well Saturday night I went ahead and asked him a bunch of questions about certain tools and whatnot and he told me that he would run down to the shop tomorrow (on Sunday) and get me the answers. Sunday afternoon I had all the info that I needed with a special quote and everything all ready. Tad is a hell of a guy and I love Freedom Racing, everything always goes so smooth and I have never had any issues with them.
Anyway, back to the fun
Seeing as I now have what I need to put in the retainer plate and the rear main seal I figured now was the time to get things done. So, off comes the oil pan, pickup tube and windage tray so I can put in the retainer plate.
I open the box and pull out the necessary tools and get to work. Seeing as how I have never done this before (as pretty much everything with the build) I figured I would do a little step to step for those who have never done it before. With the retainer plate on my bench I cleaned the area where the rear main seal goes and lubricated the rear main seal along with the hole where it fits into and just positioned the seal on top of it with both indication marks and the 12 and 6 position.
I then put the tool onto the rear main seal
I then grabbed my BFH (Big fucking hammer) and hit the shaft until the seal top of the seal laid flush with retainer plate as the OEM one is.
When I get home from work tonight I will put some gasket sealer on it and install the plate onto the block.
Anyway, back to the fun
Seeing as I now have what I need to put in the retainer plate and the rear main seal I figured now was the time to get things done. So, off comes the oil pan, pickup tube and windage tray so I can put in the retainer plate.
I open the box and pull out the necessary tools and get to work. Seeing as how I have never done this before (as pretty much everything with the build) I figured I would do a little step to step for those who have never done it before. With the retainer plate on my bench I cleaned the area where the rear main seal goes and lubricated the rear main seal along with the hole where it fits into and just positioned the seal on top of it with both indication marks and the 12 and 6 position.
I then put the tool onto the rear main seal
I then grabbed my BFH (Big fucking hammer) and hit the shaft until the seal top of the seal laid flush with retainer plate as the OEM one is.
When I get home from work tonight I will put some gasket sealer on it and install the plate onto the block.
ford20
Senior Member
Thanks man! So close, yet so far haha.
swflastang05
Back for More
You don't want to bottom out the head studs, back them out a good one or two turns. Otherwise if and when they turn while you're torquing the nuts down you could crack the block, I learned this the hard way..
ford20
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice! I remember reading the thread with all the 3V's and cracked blocks and was curious about that. Thanks for the heads up!!
ford20
Senior Member
Overkill injectors are overkill.
I'm currently in a holding pattern while I wait for other parts to arrive. I need the cams and lockouts before I can continue and I also added billet secondary chains to the list so I have to wait for those to come in plus all the additional factory had ware that I need or am replacing.
So, I doubt i will be making it to American Muscle :/
I'm currently in a holding pattern while I wait for other parts to arrive. I need the cams and lockouts before I can continue and I also added billet secondary chains to the list so I have to wait for those to come in plus all the additional factory had ware that I need or am replacing.
So, I doubt i will be making it to American Muscle :/
ford20
Senior Member
Found my old head gaskets since I don't want to crush the new head gaskets just yet but I put the heads on to prevent any debris from falling in the bores.
BOOM!!!!!
And for shits and giggles since it's going to be awhile since I can get to my engine.
BOOM!!!!!
And for shits and giggles since it's going to be awhile since I can get to my engine.
swflastang05
Back for More
No problem! IDK if the same applies to the Coyote motors but I would suspect it does.
Found my old head gaskets since I don't want to crush the new head gaskets just yet but I put the heads on to prevent any debris from falling in the bores.
BOOM!!!!!
And for shits and giggles since it's going to be awhile since I can get to my engine.
Damn that thing is purdy!
Mystickeith50
Senior Member
What does your bottom end consist of again?....sleeved block, what pistons and rings, etc.
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