Project Break a Boss

ford20

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Wow that's gonna be a badass bullet man.

That's pretty much what Aaron said lol. All I can do is cross my fingers and hope it makes whatever he thinks it will.

Going to be pretty sweet Sean!

Thanks Ryan! I'm pretty excited about getting the build all started and under way.

Sorry to see the issue. Crazy how #7 rod bearing is the only bad one.

I would have thought there would have been a lot more that were totally messed up but at least I get to do something with the cat and have some fun while learning a thing or two.
 

ford20

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I got some assembly lube in the mail on Saturday and got to work putting in the TSS Oil Pump gears. While digging through some threads I found a post by Chris (BadPiggy) on S197. On the TSS Oil Pump Gears they have the number for what gears go into which kind of oil pumps as well as a set of numbers on the bottom. Here I thought that they were just a batch number but that doesn’t appear to be the case.

Interesting.
Just called TSS.

They place those lot numbers on the rings just before shipping.
They record who received what lot numbers when sent out.
If they catch a bad gear going out...or a gear fails after it's gone out...they know who to contact.

Sounds to me like it's one way for them to lookout for us, the end user.

Anyway, onto the pictures I guess. Due to the fact that I have little flakes of metal throughout my entire engine I am going to be replacing most of the internal engine parts. So I hit up Steve over at Tasca and they got me a new Oil Pump.

20141223_184206_zps91d61ba1.jpg


I opened up the oil pump and pulled out the cast oil pump gears and grabbed the Permatex Assembly Lube and coated the news gears in some lube. I oriented them in the same way as the old gears came in. It took a bit of persuasion to get them in as they didn’t just drop in like the stock gears. I put a light coat of assembly lube on the new gears so that the rotating surfaces were red and covered but not too covered where you had these giant globs of lube on the gears. After rotating the gears by hand a couple of times to make sure that the assembly lube worked its way into everything I closed it up and torqued the screws to 90in./lbs. When I tightened up the backing plate I rotated the gears as well to ensure that there were no issues or binding. I forgot to mention to make sure you either buy a new oil pump pickup tube gasket or reuse the old one from the oil pump if you decide to buy a new oil pump.

Old
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New
20141227_151341_zps0ff4c23c.jpg


Parts used
  • TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears (JPC Racing Part #) – 1760
  • Ford 5.0 Oil Pump Part # - BR3Z-6600-A
  • Permatex Ultra Slick Assembly Lube Part # - 81950
Tools Needed
  • T30 bit
  • 3/8in. socket
  • Torque Wrench
Torque Specs
  • 90in./lbs.
 
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Doug M

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Sean, you're a brave soul:)
Doing well my friend. Keep up the good work brother!
 

ford20

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I have been thinking of getting coated engine bearings on the short lock and I am running into a bunch of mixed opinions on it. Some people are saying it is nothing but Snake oil and others are saying that it can be very beneficial to the bearings. Does anyone have any clue here on coated main and rod bearings? I'm leaning more towards the snake oil side of things because wouldn't the bearings still spin regardless whether the extra coating is there? I can't really think of why you would coat them and I can't find any info on why people do coat them. Any help on this?
 

one eyed willy

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I have been thinking of getting coated engine bearings on the short lock and I am running into a bunch of mixed opinions on it. Some people are saying it is nothing but Snake oil and others are saying that it can be very beneficial to the bearings. Does anyone have any clue here on coated main and rod bearings? I'm leaning more towards the snake oil side of things because wouldn't the bearings still spin regardless whether the extra coating is there? I can't really think of why you would coat them and I can't find any info on why people do coat them. Any help on this?



I've seen motors with 100k on the bearings and they look great as long as they have been maintained with regular oil changes. I just don't see the need for the coating as long as you are regularly changing the oil. if that coating comes off, your clearances will be affected.
 

ford20

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While looking into the coated bearings a bit more I found that they are there to provide a sacrificial layer should anything happen to the bearings themselves. It is there for something like a dry start event or if there is a loss of oil pressure. Considering that I plan to do more autocross and HPDE style events I figured if I put a coating on the bearings and say I momentarily lost some oil pressure mid turn the coating would help protect the bearings some. Not to mention that I figure that if I was spending $350 on billet oil pump gears and possibly on a billet crankshaft sprocket I might as well put down $275 to try and make the motor a little bit safer.

So I called up JPC and put down some more money on the shortblock and they are going to start ordering all the rest of the parts. They should be ordering the rest of the parts shortly.

I've seen motors with 100k on the bearings and they look great as long as they have been maintained with regular oil changes. I just don't see the need for the coating as long as you are regularly changing the oil. if that coating comes off, your clearances will be affected.

The wearing of the coating was my biggest concern as you said but looking into it a bit more I found out that the coating will be at max .0004" thick so if the layer is sacrificed it will not have a HUGE impact on the clearances and should give me a little bit of wiggle room before things turn catastrophic God forbid anything like that happens.
 

05stroker

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I am a fan of the coatings on bearings, piston skirts,and even valve springs to help retain oil and also to help protect the pistons and bearings during start up and break in.

For my boosted application, I like ceramic coated piston tops also. It will help to keep the piston top cooler and can help during minor detonation or lean condition. Let's not fool ourselves though, under heavy detonation or a major lean condition, shit is just going to melt no matter what you do. I have ran my pumps low on fuel three times now and have three nasty looking pistons in the garage to show for it.

Edit: When I say cooler, I mean that the heat is distributed more evenly allowing the heat to stay in the cylinder and not transfer as much to the piston.

JMHO on the coatings.
 
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ford20

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I am a fan of the coatings on bearings, piston skirts,and even valve springs to help retain oil and also to help protect the pistons and bearings during start up and break in.

For my boosted application, I like ceramic coated piston tops also. It will help to keep the piston top cooler and can help during minor detonation or lean condition. Let's not fool ourselves though, under heavy detonation or a major lean condition, shit is just going to melt no matter what you do. I have ran my pumps low on fuel three times now and have three nasty looking pistons in the garage to show for it.

Edit: When I say cooler, I mean that the heat is distributed more evenly allowing the heat to stay in the cylinder and not transfer as much to the piston.

JMHO on the coatings.

What kind of low fuel are you talking about? Something less than an 1/8th of a tank or a 1/4 tank? I have pretty much the same coating on my pistons as you have and running a major lean condition due to low fuel is something I would definitley want to avoid and the first I am hearing of something like this that could happen.
 

ford20

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RGR and JPC have my heads and all I need are the cams and I can begin reassembly. I have to make time and talk to them tomorrow about getting everything else done like gaskets and what their opinions are on that sort of thing but hopefully I will have it done before the AM show.

He gave up....sold me the engine for 500 bucks +3% PayPal fee and turned the boss into a $45k mailbox.

Fixed it for you :Big Laugh:
 

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