Project Break a Boss

BruceH

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I hope you are kidding. In case you aren't they are cracked and will come apart. We need bearing pics!


HELP!!!!!

How do I get these Boss rods off?!?! They aren't cracked from the factory. I think Ford pressed them onto the crankshaft. I think I'm going to try and get a sawzall and try and cut them off. Sound like a good idea?

20141116_133301_zps32152687.jpg


:beerdrink:



Yeah, I'm not looking forward to cleaning up the block since I'm not certain how I would even do it at this point. I don't believe you can use water since I would think it would start rusting things on the inside when I try to clean out the oil galleys and the cooling passages etc.



People have told me I have more money than brains and since there isn't a whole lot going on upstairs that is a bad thing for my wallet. I plan on doing just a wee bit more than an aluminator, closer to a Cobra Jet Block and build the engine from there. Although an Aluminator would be a pretty cheap alternative to what I plan on doing and has been something I have been really thinking about lately.
 

ford20

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I hope you are kidding. In case you aren't they are cracked and will come apart. We need bearing pics!

Yes, I was being a bit jocular haha. I got to the rod bearings and the bearings from 4 of the pistons fell out and the bearing on #7 was worn all the way down to the point where there were no part numbers or anything pressed into the bearing and the little tab thingie was worn down completely. I will have pictures up in a little bit.
 

ford20

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Today was a productive day all things considering. First I started off with removing the heads. It was a fairly simple process, nothing really all that major to report there. Upon first inspection I didn’t see any signs of a head gasket leak, nor did I see anything that would indicate detonation. Just a whole lot of carbon buildup for 18,000 miles, well at least in my opinion.

Here is the LH side Heads along with a close up of the piston heads.

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Here is the RH side heads along with a close up of each pistons.

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After I pulled the heads off it was time to go ahead and take out the pistons. I turned the engine upside down and started getting to work on the pistons. Upon removing the 1st piston the bearings sort of stayed on the crankshaft. By the end of it 5 out of 8 pistons had the bearings stay on the crankshaft while the others came out with the pistons caps. Now, I am not 100% certain if that is indicative of spun bearing but I figured I would at least mention it in case that would be a sign of a spun bearing. All of the piston caps had some scoring marks on them with what looks like a hot spot while some of the piston bearings had some marks on them. Anyway, onto the pictures. There are a lot of them so my apologies in advanced.

#1
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#2

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#3

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#4

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The bearings on number 4 looked like it had the little tabs worn down a little bit and the stamped part numbers on the bearings seemed to be a little bit worn down.

#5

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#6

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You can sort of see it in the picture but it looks like some of the metal found in the engine came from #6 due to the fresh scoring on the lower part of it

#7

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The bearings on #7 were completely destroyed! It was out of round, the edges were ground down to an point basically. The little tabs were worn down to almost nothing and the stamped markings on the back were completely worn away. It is sort of hard to see in the last picture but you can almost see where those tabs are on the bearing and they are almost completely gone.

#8

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Outside of that I looked at the cylinder bores and they looked like they were in fairly good condition. Just some light marks on 2 of the bores along with one bore that had vertical marks along with some sort of cross hashing marks.

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After that I went to go and take out the Main caps out and the first one came out super easy. The 2nd and 3rd ones I pulled out with my hands. If someone has an easier way of taking them out please let me know. It takes only 3 minutes to pull them out but still there has to be some better way. In my infinite wisdom I bolted up the block to the engine stand without removing the rear main seal and crankshaft rear seal plate thingie. I believe I have to remove the rear main seal in order to take that off but if someone knows otherwise I am all ears. I couldn’t finish taking off the last main cap because the 2 15mm bolts in the center are being impeded by the plate so I put the other 4 back on so that I didn’t lose anything.

  • Boss 302 Head Bolts – 10 (20 each side) x 15mm
  • Boss 302 Oil Cooler – 3 x 10mm / 1 fitting 14mm or 9/16
  • Piston Rod Bolts – 16 x 12mm
  • Main Caps – 20 x 13mm / 10 x 15mm


Any color on the corresponding crank journal (which would indicate heat)?

To be honest, I never really looked when I was taking off the main caps to look at the crank journals. That is assuming that I am understanding what it is you are talking about.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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The crank journal in the above pic looks like shit, one side is shiny like it should be, the other is dull. Dull is bad.
 

ford20

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The crank journal in the above pic looks like shit, one side is shiny like it should be, the other is dull. Dull is bad.

Yeah, that is the one for #7. That is the worst of them from what I have seen but once I can get the crank out I can detail all of the problems on the crankshaft as minimal as they might be.
 

psfracer

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Well, you found your problem.

#7........lucky #7. Hey, at least you caught it before the rod decided to go outside on a field trip. Hard to tell from the pics, but the crank looks savable--doesn't look to bad.
 

Mineral_'01

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Interesting how the number #3 rod bearings look like normal wear, but #7 is completely trashed. They are on the same journal. Both rods on that journal share the same oil supply circuit right? (might be wrong here) But, I would be looking for some kind of blockage/restriction in the oil circuit supplying oil to the #7 rod. Also on #4 too.
 
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ford20

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Well, you found your problem.

#7........lucky #7. Hey, at least you caught it before the rod decided to go outside on a field trip. Hard to tell from the pics, but the crank looks savable--doesn't look to bad.

I did get lucky on that one, you are correct. I think that is the worst looking journal I have uncovered so far as the others are still shiny so I am thinking that I can still reuse the crank for my build or do you think that it might be beneficial to get a new one? I plan on doing a 3.700 bore block with a lightweight rotating assembly that will be able to rev to the moon without troubles.

Interesting how the number #3 rod bearings look like normal wear, but #7 is completely trashed. They are on the same journal. Both rods on that journal share the same oil supply circuit right? (might be wrong here) But, I would be looking for some kind of blockage/restriction in the oil circuit supplying oil to the #7 rod. Also on #4 too.

I don't remember off the top of my head but I do believe that they share the same oil supply. I'm curious why #7 is trashed but #3 looks fairly good as well.
If I am understanding you correctly by oil supply circuit you are talking about the holes on the crank journals that feed oil into the bearings? How would I check to see if there is blockage outside of visual looking or is that the only way to do so?
 

JeremyH

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John you beat me to it, I was going to post that boss rod link, lol
 
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W3bb3r04

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If worst comes to worst you can get that crank turned and polished. My last build spun all 8 rod bearings and wore the crank journal .010. I ended up turning the crank .020 on the rod and main journals and getting oversized king bearings to match. Car made 722 whp with a non forged crank so you should be good with that boss set up.
 

2011BaseGT

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Oh man... gag a maggot. This thread hurts to look at. Good luck with the rebuild
 

BruceH

BBB Big Bore Boss 322
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I did get lucky on that one, you are correct. I think that is the worst looking journal I have uncovered so far as the others are still shiny so I am thinking that I can still reuse the crank for my build or do you think that it might be beneficial to get a new one? I plan on doing a 3.700 bore block with a lightweight rotating assembly that will be able to rev to the moon without troubles.



I don't remember off the top of my head but I do believe that they share the same oil supply. I'm curious why #7 is trashed but #3 looks fairly good as well.
If I am understanding you correctly by oil supply circuit you are talking about the holes on the crank journals that feed oil into the bearings? How would I check to see if there is blockage outside of visual looking or is that the only way to do so?

How are you getting to a 3.7 bore? Sleeves?
 

slagburn

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Boss cranks are around $300. I'd just grab a new one and call that one garage art.

Pull the oil pump apart yet?
 

ford20

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John you beat me to it, I was going to post that boss rod link, lol

A couple pieces of Italian bread work as well. I also found out that if you let it harden over a couple of days you can bore a hole in it and use it as a breaker bar.

If worst comes to worst you can get that crank turned and polished. My last build spun all 8 rod bearings and wore the crank journal .010. I ended up turning the crank .020 on the rod and main journals and getting oversized king bearings to match. Car made 722 whp with a non forged crank so you should be good with that boss set up.

That is some good news to hear. That leaves a viable option for me since I am assuming that they would clean the crankshaft as well which would help elevate my concerns about any metal particles coming back in from the crankshaft.

Oh man... gag a maggot. This thread hurts to look at. Good luck with the rebuild

At least you know what the inside of your motor looks like. Only in better condition haha.

How are you getting to a 3.7 bore? Sleeves?

Yes sir. It is sort of explained in this article except instead of Livernois I am going to send it off to RGR via JPC.

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...yote-build-part-1-livernois-3-700-bore-block/

Boss cranks are around $300. I'd just grab a new one and call that one garage art.

Pull the oil pump apart yet?

I wish I could say yes but I didn't get to it tonight. I am hoping tomorrow but I have said that too many times on this build without being able to do so.
 

Mineral_'01

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If I am understanding you correctly by oil supply circuit you are talking about the holes on the crank journals that feed oil into the bearings? How would I check to see if there is blockage outside of visual looking or is that the only way to do so?

Yes, this is what I was referring to. They sell little brushes to pass through the oil passages to clean them when assembling an engine. I suppose you could use compressed air in the passages/circuits as well.



Example of a typical crank oil circuit. (Photo not specific to 5.0 coyote)
image114.jpg
 

terry5357

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This is a great write up, but are you really wearing plastic gloves.....lol.
 

ford20

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Yes, this is what I was referring to. They sell little brushes to pass through the oil passages to clean them when assembling an engine. I suppose you could use compressed air in the passages/circuits as well.



Example of a typical crank oil circuit. (Photo not specific to 5.0 coyote)
image114.jpg

Nice! Thanks for the info! I might just take a look into them and try and clean the crank and reuse it like webber did.

This is a great write up, but are you really wearing plastic gloves.....lol.

Gloves *****! Also, excuse me sir but those are very specific and expensive grease monkey clear vinyl gloves that cost me a crippling $1.50 at Home Depot. Plus I couldn't deprive you fine gents the opportunity to view my beautiful hands while I took apart an engine.
 

TGR96

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First off, sorry to hear this happened, especially to a Boss. Second, great write up! Is this the first time you have done an engine tear down like this?
 

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