Palanza's 06 GT Teksid Build lets goo

[palanza7]

Boy, installing this DoB supercharger kit has been a real pain in the ass so far and it continues to grow in size lol

Today I went to install the 8-rib pully and turns out it wasn't even close to lining up with my alternator pully. IDK if the 2.3 TVS I bought is some special version that is molded differently or what, but I had to machine an 1/8th inch off of the overall length of the hub, rechamfer the hub, take an 1/8th off the inside of the pully and open the face of the pully more so the s/c shaft could poke through. After heating up the hub I placed it on the s/c shaft and it seems good to go this way.

Then it turns out the 130'' serp. belt that everyone uses in the kit is nowhere near long enough for my setup. I have no idea wtf but this shits getting old.. I'll be off to the autoparts store to see if I can track down a similar belt that is 2 inches longer.

Like every part I'm putting on here, except for the manifold itself, is used and this is all going to end up costing me nearly as much as a vmp 2.3 setup that would have probably bolted together more. IDK if I'm even saving any money anymore. guess piecing ur own kit together isnt all its cracked up to be boys.

So far i've had to:

Build/machine my own custom puller to get the used TVS pully off
re-machine the pully and hub assembly
fix the ass damage my manifold got during shipping (thanks ups)
drill/tap/plumb a new hose connection on my tvs elbow since it came missing one of the 90degree tubes
drill/tap the block off part to block off the evap or whatever holes on the TVS
take the s/c off of the manifold to remove a bolt in the t-stat housing for clearance
re-buy a ton of fuel line/vac lines as the ones I got off of amazon months ago didn't seem sturdy enough
broke off TWO cylinder temp sensors in the manifold. either the torque spec is super wrong in the kit instructions or the sensor I had in my car was different.

bonuses with/of the 8 rib pully swap

drive all over gods creation to get a special socket spline tool to take off the alternator pully
spend hours looking for the special 8-rib decoupler style pully and eventually giving up
replace two bearings inside idler pullys with wider bearings for proper alignment
rent and take back 3-4 different shitty pullers from local autoparts stores until I got the correct ones to remove all the godforsaken 6rib pullys

someone remind me why im going thru all this insanity?

TLDR: don't screw with the kit. if you decide to get all custom and upgrade blowers, swap to 8 rib pullys, ur in for a ride

 

[skwerl]

For belts, you can research sizes online. Goodyear and Gates both have charts listing all their belts with sizes and part numbers. Much easier shopping for that stuff online these days. I went through similar issues with my TVS1900 and 10% oversize crank pulley on my Bullitt.

 

[palanza7]

For belts, you can research sizes online. Goodyear and Gates both have charts listing all their belts with sizes and part numbers. Much easier shopping for that stuff online these days. I went through similar issues with my TVS1900 and 10% oversize crank pulley on my Bullitt.

oh good heads up. yeah I think the 10% od balancer is taking up a lot of my 130'' belt. its been like 6 months but going to try and return the belt on amazon anyway lol ugh

 

[Department Of Boost]

Boy, installing this DoB supercharger kit has been a real pain in the ass so far and it continues to grow in size lol

Today I went to install the 8-rib pully and turns out it wasn't even close to lining up with my alternator pully. IDK if the 2.3 TVS I bought is some special version that is molded differently or what, but I had to machine an 1/8th inch off of the overall length of the hub, rechamfer the hub, take an 1/8th off the inside of the pully and open the face of the pully more so the s/c shaft could poke through. After heating up the hub I placed it on the s/c shaft and it seems good to go this way.

There is something going on with your blower. In 4 years there has never been a pulley/hub fitment issues, M122 or TVS.

Then it turns out the 130'' serp. belt that everyone uses in the kit is nowhere near long enough for my setup. I have no idea wtf but this shits getting old.. I'll be off to the autoparts store to see if I can track down a similar belt that is 2 inches longer.

That's your 10% OD balancer getting you there. That balancer is 3/4" bigger in the OD I think. That's a LOT. Try # K0813125HD (132.5").

TLDR: don't screw with the kit. if you decide to get all custom and upgrade blowers, swap to 8 rib pullys, ur in for a ride

[/QUOTE]
The 8 rib conversion is a PITA, no getting around that. Doesn't matter what kit it is.

IDK what is going on with that TVS but it was never an issue with anyone else. Something goofy is going on.

 

[palanza7]

Yeah I have no idea either, I'm making it work. Just needed to do some bitching lmao.

 

[BruceH]

Yeah I have no idea either, I'm making it work. Just needed to do some bitching lmao.

I've done an 8 rib conversion before. Didn't buy a kit just ordered factory 8 rib pulleys. You will need to be able to align the ps pulley because it's a press on and doesn't have a stop. A piece of string or the old 6 rib belt help quite a bit.

For belts remember that the length is in the part number. Both Gates and Goodyear have a variety of 8 rib belt lengths. You will also have some leeway to adjust for belt size by swapping the idler pulleys.

Just be sure to pull the snap ring from the a/c pulley prior to pulling it off.

Did you find the 31 spline tool? It's the same as the VW tool. A good source for one is Brenspeed or any shop that does Saleen sc installs on 3v motors. The Saleen kit comes with the tool so shops that do the installs end up with extra tools. IIRC Brenspeed charged me $10 for one. It wasn't on the webpage, I had to call and ask.

 

[palanza7]

Good heads up Bruce. The local alternator shop had the tool. Lol so I took the thing to the local ford garage before that. . They take me to the mustang "guru" in service, he looks at it and says "that isn't oem I've never seen that before" LOL so much for ford service at the dealer.

Anyway, hey you guys sure it's safe to fire up the engine on the stock tune with the tvs and the 10% OD balancer? I mean you know when the engines cold it warms up at lIke 1k rpm, going to be spinning the blower and making some sort of boost.. just scary lol. I mean you gotta idle it to datalog right?

 

[Department Of Boost]

Good heads up Bruce. The local alternator shop had the tool. Lol so I took the thing to the local ford garage before that. . They take me to the mustang "guru" in service, he looks at it and says "that isn't oem I've never seen that before" LOL so much for ford service at the dealer.

Anyway, hey you guys sure it's safe to fire up the engine on the stock tune with the tvs and the 10% OD balancer? I mean you know when the engines cold it warms up at lIke 1k rpm, going to be spinning the blower and making some sort of boost.. just scary lol. I mean you gotta idle it to datalog right?

There is no boost while idling. The bypass valve is open. You'll be good.

 

[BruceH]

Good heads up Bruce. The local alternator shop had the tool. Lol so I took the thing to the local ford garage before that. . They take me to the mustang "guru" in service, he looks at it and says "that isn't oem I've never seen that before" LOL so much for ford service at the dealer.

Anyway, hey you guys sure it's safe to fire up the engine on the stock tune with the tvs and the 10% OD balancer? I mean you know when the engines cold it warms up at lIke 1k rpm, going to be spinning the blower and making some sort of boost.. just scary lol. I mean you gotta idle it to datalog right?

It will probably be ok. The injectors and maf are different so fueling won't be right on. If I was in your shoes I'd get a baseline tune from lito, in fact I'd do the whole tune through him. He's done enough DOB setups to have a good guesstimate of where things should be.

 

[palanza7]

GETTING THERE

Things left to do:

1. Fuel Pump/wire upgrade
2. BaP Install
3. Hide/Wire all gauge sensor boxes
4. Put H-Pipe back on
5. Wire firewire cable for remote tuning
5. Charge/replace battery
6. Coolant
7. Futz with nitrous install after engine is functional!
8. oh and gotta trim down CAI box to fit under hood lol

Woohoo

 

[pics06gtstang]

Looking good buddy !

GETTING THERE

Things left to do:

1. Fuel Pump/wire upgrade
2. BaP Install
3. Hide/Wire all gauge sensor boxes
4. Put H-Pipe back on
5. Wire firewire cable for remote tuning
5. Charge/replace battery
6. Coolant
7. Futz with nitrous install after engine is functional!
8. oh and gotta trim down CAI box to fit under hood lol

Woohoo

 

[palanza7]

well boys, got her pretty much buttoned up and then i realized i tightened a bolt down too hard and cracked my water neck, so I need to try and find a new one local or buy one off amazon. fmllllllllllll

 

[Scott]

well boys, got her pretty much buttoned up and then i realized i tightened a bolt down too hard and cracked my water neck, so I need to try and find a new one local or buy one off amazon. fmllllllllllll

Ouch Jim, if you use the OEM 07-09 housing, the thermostat housing part number is 7R3Z-8592-A.

 

[palanza7]

Ouch Jim, if you use the OEM 07-09 housing, the thermostat housing part number is 7R3Z-8592-A.

Thanks man! Yeah thats the one I cracked. Total bummer - the car DID start though so thats good. I'm just really crossing my fingers that nothing leaks once shes heated up anywhere that is really difficult to access.. lol

 

[skwerl]

The biggest PITA possible leak would be the coolant line that runs under the intake manifold from the back of the water pump to the heater core. It is a pressure fit with just an o ring to seal it, and if you shove it in without lubricating the o ring it will usually crack or tear.

 

[Wes06]

Iunno a coolant leak in the manifold itself is annoying
Lol
Going to tear it apart next week to seal it

 

[palanza7]

Okay so I fired it up with a baseline tune from lito. Seemed to idle strong for a minute or so, then as my AF gauge came on it was showing running lean. Soon after the idle started to drop and it stuttered itself out and died. I fired it up once more to check the lean gauge again and it once again was showing lean so I shut it down. Engine felt warm but never came up from cold on the dash. Didn't try datalogging since the lean scared me lol thoughts on this?

Also got a battery light, charging issue on dash sooo going to need to check that out.
Edit. . Ok my boy lito here tells me I can let it idle and log without damage so let's get this logged

 

[skwerl]

Go back through all your vacuum ports on the intake from the MAF to the intake ports. Trace every one out to see if there's something leaking or disconnected. Dunno about that TVS but my Roush M90 had a vacuum line running from the bottom of the intake manifold back to the blower elbow, designed to keep oil from puddling in the bottom of the intake.

 

[palanza7]

Go back through all your vacuum ports on the intake from the MAF to the intake ports. Trace every one out to see if there's something leaking or disconnected. Dunno about that TVS but my Roush M90 had a vacuum line running from the bottom of the intake manifold back to the blower elbow, designed to keep oil from puddling in the bottom of the intake.

Yeah I took a look over everything. I think I figured out how to wire for the datalogging. Just sent Lito the log so we will see whats up. Second time I started the car the battery light was not on anymore lol no idea.

 

[Department Of Boost]

How lean?