Advice on Build Stages - Coyote

[talonderiel]

Howdy, ya'll! I've been riding around this forum for a bit now, just recently signed up as the mod bug has finally come around with this Mustang (2012 GT 6spd). I've done all the small appearance and soft-drugs that I can to satiate the addiction... but when returning from this deployment, I will have to start the real deal.

Just looking to get advise on anything that I'm missing or experience from the forum for issues to watch out for during the build. My main goal is an N/A daily driver with around 500 ~ 600 rwhp.

Stage I:
Kooks LTs; Kooks Catted H-pipe; FR GT500 Axle Backs; and MGW Sport Shifter.

Will I need over-the-axle pipes to connect the H-pipe to the FR GT500s or is the stock ones decent enough?

Stage II:
FR CJ Manifold; FR CJ CAI; FR CJ Oval TB; and Accel Coil Pack

Stage III:
Boss 302R Heads; CJ Cams (int/exh); and MMR Billet Oil Gears

Stage IV: (suspension... I'm out of my league here)

And then the usual replace as they fail parts:
- Clutch/Flywheel/Driveshaft combo
- FR Radiator/FR Fan

Lastly all tunes will probably start with Bama... then I'll venture out, depending on where I get stationed or end up working next. Thank you for your guidance and time!

 

[konablue11gt]

First off thanks for your service..This is NOT tech this belongs in chit chat and I'm sure it will be moved there. That being said these stages are going to set you back a bunch of dollars. For less money a mildly boosted 5.0 will run 600 HP all day and night and be more dependable.(Ask me how I Know) Than a full on N/A build with cams ect ect . Do your self a favor and search builds on the many coyotes built here and you will see suspension mods that work , blower combos that are very streetable and stay away from Bama tuning your just going to pay twice ..theres very good tuners available for this engine/ car .

 

[ford20]

Well first off so fucking not tech read the rules before posting sir

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27605

Second, those mods won't get you to 500, close though and it will take a MUCH more radical build to even get you near 600RWHP.

 

[07 Boss]

And myself, I would change up the order of your stages. Suspension and drive train should be first. Build from the ground up. Tires are the single most important mod you can do because it connects everything you do to the road. Next suspension and drive train. You don't want to fix stuff when it breaks, you want to replace it before it does. Start with a good foundation to build on. This is a tried and true tested way to properly build a car with the least amount of headaches and having the most success.

 

[eighty6gt]

Stage 1: Roush 675 HP supercharger or VMP supercharger, Lund or VMP tune, GT500 axle backs
Stage 2: Call BMR for a suspension setup.

You're lucky you have a 5.0, don't even have to take the engine apart. Blower can be installed in a weekend with simple tools.

 

[cbass]

Blower can be installed in a weekend with simple tools.

True story, thatdudeinblue on youtube installed his blower in a weekend, and his friends look like tools.


But I agree with above, don't build for a HP goal if you want the car to be a driver. "What's your dyno sheet trap?" If you want an all around good car to drive, get it set up to handle power before you give it power.

 

[eighty6gt]

yeah, then he drove it around slowly going "wow this car is so fast" and made enough from adsense/sponsors on that video alone to cover the entire (discounted) kit, and do some investing.

 

[Unreal]

Avoid BAMA
Tune, xpipe 1st
Tires, wheels, suspension next.

That gets you a solid 11 second car. From there after you enjoy it a bit, either add a blower or you can start tweaking it by adding long tubes/etc. What you listed is a really backwards expensive build.

 

[usafimj]

Great build you got going on but like others have said you'll gain much more going FI instead of N/A. Unless you're dead set on N/A then have at it. Suspension/tires should be stage I, Exhaust = stage II, FI = stage III. Atleast this is what I'm doing

 

[skaarlaj]

Welcome to the site, and thanks for your service. 500-600rwhp Is a lofty/expensive goal without a power adder, what do you want the car to do well or better than it does now?

I like quickness in drag racing, and started off with drag radials and gears, and without any hard data, I can tell you that I'm happy the way it performs with these two simple mods, and am sure to be less embarrassed at the track next spring because of them.

 

[skwerl]

1- Suspension.
2- Tires.
3- Blower.
4- Enjoy your 600hp, 100% streetable car.

 

[KatoS197]

+1 for suspension first and adding a blower. No sense in dumping all that money and not having a lot to show for it. And the power is useless without a good suspension/foundation anyways.

 

[ford20]

Howdy, ya'll! I've been riding around this forum for a bit now, just recently signed up as the mod bug has finally come around with this Mustang (2012 GT 6spd). I've done all the small appearance and soft-drugs that I can to satiate the addiction... but when returning from this deployment, I will have to start the real deal.

Just looking to get advise on anything that I'm missing or experience from the forum for issues to watch out for during the build. My main goal is an N/A daily driver with around 500 ~ 600 rwhp.

Stage I:
Kooks LTs; Kooks Catted H-pipe; FR GT500 Axle Backs; and MGW Sport Shifter.

Will I need over-the-axle pipes to connect the H-pipe to the FR GT500s or is the stock ones decent enough? Nope, the stock ones will connect

Stage II:
FR CJ Manifold; FR CJ CAI; FR CJ Oval TB; and Accel Coil Pack Skip the Coil Packs and stay with the stock ones they will be better than the Accel's

Stage III:
Boss 302R Heads; CJ Cams (int/exh); and MMR Billet Oil Gears The Boss 302 heads are tough to come by now and will be harder when you get yours. I would just go ahead and upgrade to the 2015 heads

Stage IV: (suspension... I'm out of my league here) What are you looking to do with the car?

And then the usual replace as they fail parts:
- Clutch/Flywheel/Driveshaft combo
- FR Radiator/FR Fan Skip the FRPP Radiator as it doesn't really appear to do that well unless you plan on boxing it in.

Lastly all tunes will probably start with Bama... then I'll venture out, depending on where I get stationed or end up working next. Thank you for your guidance and time! Skip BAMA and go with someone who can really tune a car well. I would suggest Lund or AED or VMP

I put my responses in Red to help you out some. The combo you have will still be 100% driveable and should net you around 470-480.

+1 for suspension first and adding a blower. No sense in dumping all that money and not having a lot to show for it. And the power is useless without a good suspension/foundation anyways.

When can you hook when you have 625 unless you are running DR's everywhere. I would rather have a well balanced car than one that will light the tires up when you floor it.

 

[zeroescape]

Easiest hp mod for NA engine is cat delete, dont put a aftermarket one back in. Makes no sense.

 

[KatoS197]

When can you hook when you have 625 unless you are running DR's everywhere. I would rather have a well balanced car than one that will light the tires up when you floor it.

That's what I was getting at. Like someone else mentioned, build from the ground up. Ever since Mustangs hit 300HP, I don't like driving these cars, even stock, without springs and LCAs/UCA. Not saying it's the right way to do it necessarily, but I just like knowing the ass-end of the car is going to be tight and require more to get away from itself.

But you're right. All that power is useless without control, reinforcement, and hook. Having a small background in AutoX and road coursing, my default method is suspension -> wheels/tires -> power-adder ->more suspension lol.

 

[Sky Render]

Easiest hp mod for NA engine is cat delete, dont put a aftermarket one back in. Makes no sense.

What? How much horsepower do you actually get from deleting the cats? And I'm not talking about adding in a tune at the same time. I'm talking about the difference in power gotten from SOLELY removing the cats.

 

[cbass]

What? How much horsepower do you actually get from deleting the cats? And I'm not talking about adding in a tune at the same time. I'm talking about the difference in power gotten from SOLELY removing the cats.

Almost 20hp. Proven again, and again, and again.

 

[Unreal]

14-16rwhp from a catless x-pipe is very common. Add a tune and 30-40rwhp is not unhead of. All you really need to do power wise for a solid 11 second car.

 

[Sky Render]

Damn these Maryland emissions inspections!

 

[cbass]

Damn these Maryland emissions inspections!

Do they use a sniffer or plug into ODB?