How to check if one timing chain jumped

[pics06gtstang]

I'm starting to reassemble everything and found what I think is another small issue, this time with the driver's side phaser. The three roll pins are slightly loose, just enough that I can wiggle the trigger wheel.
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"Small issue" , never .
if them phasers are loose in any way i would replace them w/ OEM , and if it was
me i would lock them out also while i was in there .
but loose is not good at all IMO .
as far as the tensioner goes the original have shit gaskets and they leak oil
@ that point , the new design has an o ring type gasket . i would invest in new tensioners .

 

[Brick]

"Small issue" , never .
if them phasers are loose in any way i would replace them w/ OEM , and if it was
me i would lock them out also while i was in there .
but loose is not good at all IMO .
as far as the tensioner goes the original have shit gaskets and they leak oil
@ that point , the new design has an o ring type gasket . i would invest in new tensioners .

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure locking out the VCT isn't the way to go with the Hot Rods. I have new OEM plastic body tensioners installed with the updated gaskets.

So that leaves the phaser as my last thing to figure out. I completely disassembled the driver's side phaser, reassembled it, put it back on the cam, snugged it up with an old phaser bolt, removed the bolt, and everything is now tight and lined up plumb and straight again. None of the three little roll pins are sheared.

I'll get new phasers if I have to... but I hate to spend ~$400 when it seems like the one I have is still in good condition, or at least appears to be. Or I could get new roll pins from McMaster for just a few bucks. Is my thinking right, guys? Or am I totally wrong in my understanding of how the phaser is put together?

Edit: I should add that these are the early 2005 phasers, I know Ford has had at least one revision since then. Also, Freedom Racing claims the "Precsion Auto" brand is better than OEM, but I've never seen them mentioned on here. Does anybody know what the difference is between the two?

 

[Wild White Pony]

I'm not sure but I thought the new spring design plays better with hotrod cams, with that I would invest in new phasers since you have this apart. I know many others have gone through some hell when those locating pins come loose. I had this happen once to me, I changed out the phaser and never had to make a wtf happened thread.
You have 11 good years on those phasers and they have loose pins... ? The cost of a phaser failure will dwarf replacement of the phasers now.

New on left, you should be able to find these for around $225.00 a pair. Last time I bought a set that's around what I paid, Freedoms Racing Tool and MMR sell them, I also would give Steve at Tasca a call.

 

[Brick]

I'm not sure but I thought the new spring design plays better with hotrod cams, with that I would invest in new phasers since you have this apart. I know many others have gone through some hell when those locating pins come loose. I had this happen once to me, I changed out the phaser and never had to make a wtf happened thread.
You have 11 good years on those phasers and they have loose pins... ? The cost of a phaser failure will dwarf replacement of the phasers now.

New on left, you should be able to find these for around $225.00 a pair. Last time I bought a set that's around what I paid, Freedoms Racing Tool and MMR sell them, I also would give Steve at Tasca a call.

If the revised ones play better with the Hot Rods then that's the route I'll go. The price on them has doubled, it's that much for just one phaser now. I plan to go OEM but just sent an email to Freedom Racing asking if they could provide some side by side pictures with the Precision Auto brand since I've never seen them mentioned on this forum. In hindsight I should've just gotten the whole timing kit and had it over with. Lots of lessons learned during this project and a couple mistakes made, but at least I'm smart enough to know when something doesn't seem quite right and to ask you guys for guidance! I appreciate everyone's help so far!

 

[Wild White Pony]

If that's what they want I'd buy the whole kit. I know last year when the prices of the timing kit doubled we were able to find the same kit on Amazon Canada for the original price, never tried to order it though, not sure if they will let you purchase and ship effectively to the states.

Best I've seen here in the U.S.:https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.co...m-6004-463v/?gclid=CJekx5HzhMwCFZSMaQod3NwJfA

Tasca Ford was about $10.00 more but Steve may match.

 

[Brick]

Steve was able to beat it... $467 for the kit.

Also going to go with the 2013+ oil pump with the billet back plate (and swap the spring to keep the right oil pressure) now while I have it all apart for cheap insurance. I don't have FI yet so I don't think I'll need to do the TSS gears yet.. or should I? FI is a long way down the road for me and a short block will probably come first.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Steve was able to beat it... $467 for the kit.

Also going to go with the 2013+ oil pump with the billet back plate (and swap the spring to keep the right oil pressure) now while I have it all apart for cheap insurance. I don't have FI yet so I don't think I'll need to do the TSS gears yet.. or should I? FI is a long way down the road for me and a short block will probably come first.

If your putting the GT500 with Billet Backplate I wouldn't bother with the TSS gears till you build your shortblock and add the big power. With the elimination of the flexing in the back plate the gears shouldn't bind and break, nor should oil leak from the backside of the pump. If Ford felt comfortable with the pump in the 13-14 650rwhp GT500 IMO I would too.

 

[Brick]

Got everything timed and reassembled last night. Primed the engine with about 1.5 quarts using the garden sprayer method to make sure the tensioners would have pressure for the first start up.

Both tensioners bubbled oil at first during the priming before firming up... is that normal? I've never primed an engine before but it makes sense the air would have to bleed off somewhere. Just paranoid because I know they can be prone to leaking.

 

[05stroker]

Bubbled from where?

 

[Brick]

On the driver side, from the top of the tensioner where it meets the block. Similar location on the passenger side, but it's on the bottom since the tensioner is rotated.

I have a spare new set of tensioners on hand... based on you not saying it's normal right off the bat I'm figuring I should plan on pulling the cover back off tonight and swap them, then prime it again and go from there.