Bad rear main seal oil leak

[GriffX]

Did oil change today and noticed a medium to bad oil leak dripping from the pan and the transmission plate. (2007 V8 has only 40k miles) I think it will be the rear main seal.
Does anyone has some advice or hint? I will probably do it myself on jack stands but not sure when, I'm in Germany and must import most parts from US.
Is it possible to drive it for additional 1k mi?

Thanks!

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

You shouldn't have any problem driving the car but I suggest you carry a piece of cardboard to put underneath everywhere you go so you don't drip oil onto the ground, and carry spare oil with you to top the engine up. The biggest problem with a leaking rear main crank seal is the mess it makes.

 

[GriffX]

Thats good news! Thanks!
What about trying AT-205 ?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

It may temporarily swell up the seal and slow down the leak, but it may also reduce the lubricating properties of the engine oil and accelerate engine wear.

 

[GriffX]

That makes sense, thanks! It's not easy avaliable in Europe anyway. It's a lot of work for a 15$ seal. And I think its not necessary to change the clutch after 40k.

 

[WNYGT5-0]

That makes sense, thanks! It's not easy avaliable in Europe anyway. It's a lot of work for a 15$ seal. And I think its not necessary to change the clutch after 40k.

Here’s the deal, if you don’t get in there and change it soon... then you will need that clutch and a flywheel much sooner. You’re going to be constantly bathing your clutch in oil causing it to slip and burn up. As far as repairs go, it’s pretty straightforward, the right angles, trajectory and A couple wobble extensions and a little jack finesse.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I also live in Europe and have to ship parts in from the States, but I usually place an order for additional parts that I anticipate I'll need in the future as well as the part(s) that I need right there and then. This saves a lot in shipping costs and ensures that I have spare service parts in my garage when I need them.
As the previous poster rightly mentioned, don't delay the rear main seal replacement too long. It looks like the car isn't driven very often and the seal probably just perished with age.

 

[GriffX]

I also try to buy spare parts in advance, but no clutch yet.
Found a nice video for replacement. Need a transmission jack and some sockets. Its more a limited time problem to do it and on jack stands I need much more time than on a two post lift.
Thanks for the advice with the clutch.

 

[86GT351]

I also try to buy spare parts in advance, but no clutch yet.
Found a nice video for replacement. Need a transmission jack and some sockets. Its more a limited time problem to do it and on jack stands I need much more time than on a two post lift.
Thanks for the advice with the clutch.

Get it done sooner than later. While you are in there since the trans has to come out put the clutch in now. Save yourself the labor for next time.

 

[GriffX]

Yeah I think so. Some recommendations for clutch brands? LuK?

 

[Juice]

Yeah I think so. Some recommendations for clutch brands? LuK?

Centerforce Dual Friction. Got one in the supercharged 91 gt, and the coyote. Have the stage 2 in my Torino.

 

[Anti]

Yea, changing the rear main seal ain't bad and is an excuse to change the clutch. I did it on mine while changing flywheel and clutch, just cause. I changed the tail shaft seal on my tranny while at it too, while changing tranny fluid.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

You might change your pan gasket and see if the leak stops. It's a lot less work than pulling the transmission and changing the rear main seal.
I agree with other posters that if you drive with a bad rear main seal, you will destroy the clutch. I am not sure whether the 4.6 flywheel bolts extend into the crank case. You should coat the threads with Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE just in case. A bottle is only about $8.00.

 

[GriffX]

Thanks, I changed the tail shaft seal on the tranny years ago, that was leaking when the car was 3 years old.
Thanks for the thread sealant hint.
For the oil pan I would need an engine support on top and remove or lower the subframe?

 

[WNYGT5-0]

Thanks, I changed the tail shaft seal on the tranny years ago, that was leaking when the car was 3 years old.
Thanks for the thread sealant hint.
For the oil pan I would need an engine support on top and remove or lower the subframe?

I believe, don’t quote me, but I’ve been told you can drop the oil pan without dropping the k member. For a clutch the LUK is an excellent oem replacement. Don’t expect high performance, but when used as intended it functions as intended. LUK is manufactured in Germany so maybe you can source that from them over there and save yourself a few Euro.
Cheers!

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I believe, don’t quote me, but I’ve been told you can drop the oil pan without dropping the k member.

I'm not sure. You can certainly drop the oil pan but you might not be able to get it past the oil pump pick up screen and out of the way without at least lowering the K member an inch or so.

 

[GriffX]

I've seen a video for changing the oil pan gasket by raising the engine an inch or so. Looks easier than droppig the K member. When the stores are open again I will try to find a LUK clutch here. Haven't found it on German online shops.

 

[GriffX]

double