Timing components for build

teeje

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I'm currently building another engine. I am doing v10 block off plates, phaser lockouts, and a whole bunch more but timing componentsis the focus here. Making this engine be able to withstand 1000+ HP. I have read multiple good and bad things about MMR but I would like to hear everyone's opinion. Im going to use OEM chains and phasers and just lock them out. What tensioners and guides would you all use?

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RED09GT

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I stuck with BruceH's recipe and used the stock style plastic chain tensioners and guides.
They proved to hold up longer than the stock pivot pins did on my motor.

I bought my chains, guides, and tensioners from Freedom Racing, they have several kit options-including ones without phasers.

Best advice is to see these as a wear item and not be afraid to replace them rather than buy exotic stuff, only to be upset when it doesn't hold up-especially if you buy MMR's crap. It looks pretty, probably functions for a drag car that sees only a few hundred miles/year, and will probably leave you on the side of the road on a street car.
 

teeje

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I stuck with BruceH's recipe and used the stock style plastic chain tensioners and guides.
They proved to hold up longer than the stock pivot pins did on my motor.

I bought my chains, guides, and tensioners from Freedom Racing, they have several kit options-including ones without phasers.

Best advice is to see these as a wear item and not be afraid to replace them rather than buy exotic stuff, only to be upset when it doesn't hold up-especially if you buy MMR's crap. It looks pretty, probably functions for a drag car that sees only a few hundred miles/year, and will probably leave you on the side of the road on a street car.
That's some good info. Thank you.

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Rick Simons

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I seem to recall seeing cast iron tensioners somewhere, and of course it was after I had bought and installed the plastic ones during my cam swap.
Anyone know about these? The plastic ones tend to blow the o-rings out that seal against the block.
 
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RED09GT

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The iron tensioners do work and don't have as much potential for a leak as the phenolic ones. The iron ones have a ratcheting mechanism that holds tension, the phenolic ones have a spring in them that continues to hold tension if there is an issue with oil flow.

The iron ones are considered to be an upgrade. How big of an upgrade? Who knows... Both have failed on 3V motors in the past.
 

Rick Simons

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The iron tensioners do work and don't have as much potential for a leak as the phenolic ones. The iron ones have a ratcheting mechanism that holds tension, the phenolic ones have a spring in them that continues to hold tension if there is an issue with oil flow.

The iron ones are considered to be an upgrade. How big of an upgrade? Who knows... Both have failed on 3V motors in the past.
I do like the ratcheting function. But again, it's too late to consider them for my motor now.
 
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Yes, that's it. I don't see 3V engines in the application info though.

From the product page on the left side just below the tensioner picture.

"Many customers purchase these 2V steel-bodied tensioners to use as an upgrade on their 3V engines. It is important to note that all 3V engines came with plastic-bodied tensioners from the factory."
 

teeje

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From the product page on the left side just below the tensioner picture.

"Many customers purchase these 2V steel-bodied tensioners to use as an upgrade on their 3V engines. It is important to note that all 3V engines came with plastic-bodied tensioners from the factory."
Hard to say if they're worth it. You have to take them apart and file 3 teeth off, and I don't even know which 3 teeth. The end towards the guide or the end in the tensioner?

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boostedtrauma

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You have to take them apart and file 3 teeth off

From my understanding, this is to eliminate the ratcheting function, as the ratcheting is problematic with VCT (the cam advances/retards, creating temporary slack). If you're locking out VCT, I do not believe this is required, as it is going to be static, same as a 2v.

Melling makes iron tensioners, so that is what I would likely do, as I am not an MMR fan. As others have stated, the pivots are a failure point on high power builds. Shelby Mike offers billet timing chain arms with the option to use 9mm pivots instead of OE 8mm pivots on the tension arms. I would likely do that with OE stationary guides.

Melling tensioner part numbers are BT402 and BT403 for the left and right primary tensioners respectively.

http://www.shelbymikeracing.com/billet-timing-chain-arms-v2-4-6-sohc-2v-3v-pair/
 

Rick Simons

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From my understanding, this is to eliminate the ratcheting function, as the ratcheting is problematic with VCT (the cam advances/retards, creating temporary slack). If you're locking out VCT, I do not believe this is required, as it is going to be static, same as a 2v.

Melling makes iron tensioners, so that is what I would likely do, as I am not an MMR fan. As others have stated, the pivots are a failure point on high power builds. Shelby Mike offers billet timing chain arms with the option to use 9mm pivots instead of OE 8mm pivots on the tension arms. I would likely do that with OE stationary guides.

Melling tensioner part numbers are BT402 and BT403 for the left and right primary tensioners respectively.

http://www.shelbymikeracing.com/billet-timing-chain-arms-v2-4-6-sohc-2v-3v-pair/
Yeah, I didn't consider the varying loads due to the VCT operation. Good point!
 

teeje

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Going with oem components lockouts and v10 delete plates thanks all.

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sportinawoody

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I’ve broken pivot pins, I’ve broken a oem chain guide seperately, and I e had oem plastic tensioners blowout. I have all mmr guides and tensioners and cobra bob pivot pins and billet gears and timing reluctor and have had no issues. With the money I spent on this engine, it was money well spent so far
 

sportinawoody

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That said, I have seen the horror stories of mmr thru the years and am not a fan of them but the truly badass setups all have one thing in common, all this shit is billet and not plastic or aluminum regardless of what company you choose. Besides mmr got a bad name from engine building, customer service, and warranty not their actual parts failing
 

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