Has Anyone Tried the MMR Billet Chain Guides for a 4.6L 3V Timing Rebuild?

[lwarrior1016]

Really? i thought it was "recommended" to add a bit to the tip of the coil packs when putting them in.

Man, I don’t know about a recommendation like that. I just know my personal experience, and dielectric grease has always been bad. The connector has a rubber seal on it to keep water out. And the terminals need to have undisturbed metal to metal contact.

 

[JC SSP]

I have used dielectric grease for over 20 years and never an issue.

Consider before starting the engine, I spin the motor by hand several times over with the front timing & valve covers off and carefully confirm all the timing marks and all valve train components are aligned properly.

 

[lwarrior1016]

I have used dielectric grease for over 20 years and never an issue.

Consider before Before starting the engine, I spin the motor by hand several times over with the front timing & valve covers off and carefully confirm all the timing marks and all valve train components are aligned properly.

I definitely spin the engine by hand, before buttoning everything up and firing it.

On to the grease, it may not immediately cause issues, but over time that grease will harden, and it creates resistance in the circuit. Being that it is non conductive, current cannot go through the grease.

When I ran an Allison dealership, we had power company trucks that would come in. They were all about a year old. The transmission computer connector had been greased up with dielectric grease. The transmissions quit working, all in different ways. All I had to do was break clean all the crap out of the connector and the trucks worked just fine.

 

[Midlife Crises]

A little dialectic grease on the spark plug boots will help prevent the boots sticking to the spark plug or the well walls. Do not get it on the contact surfaces or you can have problems.

 

[Squiggle05GT]

Just fired her up, and everything seems to be running smoothly! I let her idle for about 30-40 minutes, keeping a close eye on oil pressure and temperatures while checking under the car every few minutes for leaks. Also inspected the pulleys to make sure everything was in order. Looks like I nailed my first timing rebuild job!

 

[whitmanink]

you should have primed the motor (the easy way is to unplug crank sensor )
and the oil gauge isnt really one,, its more of an on/off switch

none the less, good job doing the timing and getting her to fire back to life

 

[lwarrior1016]

you should have primed the motor (the easy way is to unplug crank sensor )
and the oil gauge isnt really one,, its more of an on/off switch

none the less, good job doing the timing and getting her to fire back to life

That really is not necessary. Everything in the engine still has oil in it. All the bearing surfaces still have oil. It’s like starting your car after it sits for a couple weeks without being driven.

 

[MrBhp]

To pre-lube the engine, no unplugging of anything is required. The car has "flood mode". Mash the accelerator to floor before you turn the key. This prevents firing. Will only crank as long as accelerator is at wot. Will not start. That's how you prime the oiling system.

 

[Squiggle05GT]

you should have primed the motor (the easy way is to unplug crank sensor )
and the oil gauge isnt really one,, its more of an on/off switch

none the less, good job doing the timing and getting her to fire back to life

Yeah, I made sure to prime it first. I removed the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine three times for 5–6 seconds each, with short breaks in between. After that, I started her up for real.

Today, I took her out for a 3–4 mile drive, letting the temps rise while staying under 3,000 RPM. Once she reached normal operating temperature, I started easing past 3,000 RPM and man, she sounds and feels way more responsive! After the drive, I checked the pulleys, oil level, and temps, and everything looks good.

 

[Autokyrios]

Dielectric grease...so many people think it's used to make the connection better. It's used to protect the connection from the elements. It has no electrical properties. That's why it's used. If you put regular grease in there, it'll conduct and you'll have a sh**show.
Other thing people get wrong with dielectric grease is they load it up like it's cream in a diabetic twinkie suicide bomb. A tiny little bit goes a long way.

 

[MrBhp]

Dielectric grease...so many people think it's used to make the connection better. It's used to protect the connection from the elements. It has no electrical properties. That's why it's used. If you put regular grease in there, it'll conduct and you'll have a sh**show.
Other thing people get wrong with dielectric grease is they load it up like it's cream in a diabetic twinkie suicide bomb. A tiny little bit goes a long way.

Bro, until it happens to you personally, it's hard to believe it could ever be a problem. That was my experience, anyway. I would glob it on. However, I started having electrical issues with my old Ram Cummins. I didn't think it could be under the hood "cause I've smeared dielectric grease on and in every connection". Turns out it was grease on the battery post connections. The truck has the tendency to corode at the posts. Cleaned all the grease off and it fixed the issue. But then the posts would corode quickly. I got some of those fiber washers that go under the post clamps. Always figured they were snake oil. Problem was solved.

 

[whitmanink]

That really is not necessary. Everything in the engine still has oil in it. All the bearing surfaces still have oil. It’s like starting your car after it sits for a couple weeks without being driven.

whenever an oil pump is replaced, i would always recommend a prime before start..
because i dont think oil is still just "sitting" in there as if it wernt run for awhile.
but then again people do werid things

 

[whitmanink]

To pre-lube the engine, no unplugging of anything is required. The car has "flood mode". Mash the accelerator to floor before you turn the key. This prevents firing. Will only crank as long as accelerator is at wot. Will not start. That's how you prime the oiling system.

true but i wouldnt do that only because some have said that the car still started,,
now weather or not they had there foot all the way down we will never know,,
but fordtechmilkuko did the crank sensor to be safe , so i do and advise the same

 

[MrBhp]

true but i wouldnt do that only because some have said that the car still started,,
now weather or not they had there foot all the way down we will never know,,
but fordtechmilkuko did the crank sensor to be safe , so i do and advise the same

I don't.

 

[JC SSP]

I plan on doing this (chains, guides, rockers, oil pump, etc.) in the next few months... I definitely will do a pre-lube before starting up. I like disconnecting the crank sensor! Thx guys.

 

[GriffX]

You have kilovolts at the spark plug, dielectric grease is not a big insulator in this case

 

[lwarrior1016]

Clear flood is easy, no need to disconnect anything. However, cranking the engine is the same thing as starting the engine. The crank is still spinning, and the oil pump is still turning in the housing.

I understand people being scared, but I’ve built a lot of engines and never had an issue from starting the engine and watching oil pressure come up. It happens very quick.

I also do not believe in babying engines after building them. The rings need load to break in. I fire it up, make sure it’s not leaking and we have oil pressure, cruise around until it’s up to temp, then beat the shit out of it.

Total seal actually recommends breaking in their rings at the race track.

 

[JC SSP]

Interesting, and I have built several engines and always primed my motors.

I guess it’s either going to go or blow! Lol

 

[Badd GT]

When I had a new motor built for my car, the reading I did led me to believe that your starter doesn’t spin your motor fast enough to build any psi on your oil pressure which was why pre-lube was important. I don’t think your engine runs for more than 5 seconds before you have oil pressure. Check k it next time you change your oil? Worrying about trying to pre lube your existing engine after doing timing swap a little silly imho

 

[Squiggle05GT]

When installing the oil pump, I partially filled it through the opening where the oil pickup tube bolts on and manually rotated the gear that slides onto the crankshaft until I saw oil flow out from the other side. This was just to make sure it was lubricated beforehand before installing it.