How To: MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by [email protected], Feb 20, 2014.

  1. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    Ok picked up a set of MMR's Hurricane Billet oil pump gears when they where having there special promo last month. Let me start this off by saying the only reason why I choose to do these gears now is because I am going FI in the next few weeks.
    GENERAL LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED:
    CLEAN DRAIN PAN (TO REUSE COOLANT)
    DIRTY DRAIN PAN (IF CHANGING ENGINE OIL)
    8MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    9MM SHALLOW SOCKET (FOR 1 STUD ON OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY)
    10MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    13MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    15MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    18MM 1/2 SOCKET (FOR CRANK PULLEY BOLT)
    19MM WRENCH OF SOCKET (FOR RADIATOR COOLANT DRAIN VALVE)
    2 OR 3 JAW PULLER (TO REMOVE CRANK PULLEY)
    10MM RATCHETING WRENCH
    10MM COMBO WRENCH
    SMALL-MEDIUM PRY BARS
    PLIERS FOR RADIATOR HOSES
    VARIOUS PICKS FOR CLIPS
    BENDABLE MAGNET
    RAZOR BLADE/SCRAPER (FOR SILICONE)
    CAULKING GUN (FOR TA-30 SILICONE)
    TRIM PANEL TOOL (FOR ALL THE WIRING PUSH PINS)
    MMR HARMONIC BALANCER INSTALL BOLT ( FOR $13.99 YOU CANT GO WRONG)
    PARTS/MATERIALS NEEDED:
    LEFT SIDE FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-B
    RIGHT SIDE FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-D
    MIDDLE TOP FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-C
    RH VALVE COVER GASKET BR3Z-6584-D
    LH VALVE COVER GASKET BR3Z-6584-A
    FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL XW4Z-6700-B
    CRANKSHAFT TTY BOLT BR3Z-6A340-A
    THERMOSTAT HOUSING O-RING 7T4Z-8590-A
    TA-30 SILICONE (THIS WILL BE IN A TUBE FOR A CAULKING GUN)
    BRAKE CLEAN
    SHOP RAGS
    8-8.5 QTS OF OIL
    OIL FILTER
    PATIENCE

    THE START:
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_083550[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 1:
    DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE BATTERY AND TRAY.
    3 8MM BOLTS UNDER BATTERY AND THEN IT COMES OUT.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_084426[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 2:
    REMOVE UNDERSHIELD AND DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT (19MM DRAIN VALVE)
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_084712[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_085208[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 3:
    DISCONNECT PCV LINE TO RH VALVE COVER, REMOVE COIL COVER, DISCONNECT BOTH VCT SOLINOIDS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, DISCONNECT ALL 4 IGNITION COILS AND ALL 4 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE ALL 4 IGNITION COILS. THEN REMOVE ALL 14 OF THE 10MM VALVE COVER BOLTS AND REMOVE RH VALVE COVER. (YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL SLIGHTLY HARDER THEN YOU THINK, THE VCT SOLINOID SEALS HOLD THE VALVE COVER ON TIGHT)
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_085523[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_085652[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_085934[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_090004[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_091157[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 4:
    REMOVE AIR INTAKE ASSEMBLY, REMOVE CANISTER PURGE VALVE LINE, REMOVE OIL DIPSTICK, REMOVE BOTH VCT SOLINOIDS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, DISCONNECT ALL 4 IGNITION COILS AND ALL 4 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE ALL 4 IGNITION COILS. THEN REMOVE ALL 14 10MM VALVE COVER BOLTS AND REMOVE LH VALVE COVER. (AGAIN YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL SLIGHTLY HARDER THEN YOU THINK, THE VCT SOLINOID SEALS HOLD THE VALVE COVER ON TIGHT)
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_091455[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_091505[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    **WARNING** BE CAREFULLY WHEN PULLING UP LH VALVE COVER THE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK TUBE IS A BRITTLE PLASTIC AND CAN BREAK.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_093838[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 5:
    REMOVE OEM TOP RADIATOR SHROUD, REMOVE BOTH 10MM BOLTS FOR DEGAS BOTTLE, REMOVE BOTH SMALLER COOLANT LINES TO DEGAS BOTTLE, REMOVE BOTTOM COOLANT HOSE TO DEGAS BOTTLE. REMOVE DEGAS BOTTLE.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_095252[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_095643[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_100148[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_101226[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 6:
    REMOVE THE LH SIDE FRESH AIR FEED 10MM NUT ON COOLING FAN SHROUD, REMOVE 10MM STUD ON LH SIDE AND REMOVE THE 10MM BOLT ON RH SIDE. DISCONNECT COOLING FAN ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND REMOVE COOLING FAN MOTOR/SHROUD ASSEMBLY.

    STEP 7:
    REMOVE WATER PUMP PULLEY 4 10MM'S (USE OF A 3/8 IMPACT GUN HELPS), REMOVE BOTH THE A/C BELT AND LH SIDE BELT, BOTH IDLER'S 13MM'S, REMOVE LH SIDE BELT TENSIONER 13MM. REMOVE 15MM NUT AND 15MM BOLT FOR ALTERNATOR AND PUSH ALTERNATOR TO THE SIDE, REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE AND DISCONNECT LOWER RADIATOR HOSE ASSEMBLY.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_102525[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_102641[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 8:
    REMOVE 2 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE THERMOSTAT HOUSEING ASSEMBLY AND REMOVE 4 10MM BOLTS AND REMOVE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY. (MAKE SURE DRAIN PAN IS POSITIONED UNDER FRONT MIDDLE DUE TO COOLANT BEING BEHIND WATER PUMP).
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_102838[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_103131[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_103702[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 9:
    REMOVE 18MM BOLT AND SPACER ON CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, USING EITHER A 2 JAW OR 3 JAW PULLER REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_110458[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 10:
    FROM UNDER VEHICLE REMOVE THE 2 FRONT STUDS 13MM AND 2 FRONT BOLTS 10MM ON OIL PAN THAT GOES THROUGH TO FRONT ENGINE COVER. REMOVE THE 13 BOLTS AND 2 STUDDED BOLTS ON FRONT COVER MOST 10MM AND SOME 13MM. (UPPER RH SIDE HAS A 10MM NUT HOLDING A GROUND STRAP TO A 13MM STUD) REMOVE FRONT ENGINE COVER.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_113047[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_113104[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 11: **SETTING UP TIMING TO REMOVE CHAINS**

    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_114314[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    1: TURN OVER CRANKSHAFT UNTIL SLOTTED KEYWAY IS AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_121221[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    2:VERIFY THAT ON TOP OF ALL 4 CAM SHAFTS THE DATA MATRIX'S ARE FACING UP. (IF NOT THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 1 FULL ROTATION MORE)
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_121252[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_121300[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    WHAT I DO IS MARK 1 LINK WITH WHITE OUT THAT IS RIGHT WHERE THE R IS ON THE RH SIDE CAM PHASER AND THEN MARK 1 LINK ON THE PART OF THE CHAIN THAT IS ON THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_121237[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_121244[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_122235[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    3: REMOVE THE 2 10MM BOLTS HOLDING THE RH SIDE CHAIN TENSIONER, REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER AND CHAIN. REMOVE RH TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ARM AND 1 10MM BOLT FOR TIMING CHAIN GUIDE ON RH SIDE.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_122243[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    4: NOW ROTATE CRANKSHAFT OVER COUNTERCLOCKWISE SO KEYWAY IS AT 9'O CLOCK POSITION. MARK WITH WHITEOUT ON THE LINK ABOVE THE L ON THE LH CAM PHASER. THEN MARK A LINK ON THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
    5: REMOVE THE 2 10MM BOLTS HOLDING THE LH SIDE CHAIN TENSIONER, REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER AND CHAIN. REMOVE THE LH SIDE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ARM AND THE 1 10MM BOLT FOR THE TIMING CHAIN GUIDE ON THE LH SIDE. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.

    STEP 12:
    NOW REMOVE THE 2 8MM, 1 9MM STUD AND 1 13MM STUD ON THE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY. REMOVE 2 10MM BOLTS FOR THE OIL PICKUP TUBE ON THE BOTTOM (I USED A COMBO 10MM WRENCH AND A RATCHETING 10MM WRENCH) THE BOTTOM ONE IS THE HARDEST PART OF THIS JOB. I POSITIONED A MAGNET UNDER JUST INCASE THE BOLT DROPPED. NOW REMOVE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY. (VERIFY THAT ORING FOR OIL PICKUP TUBE IS THERE AND ON THE OIL PICKUP TUBE)
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_123058[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_124043[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_132129[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_132135[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
     
  2. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    STEP 13:
    NOW REMOVE ALL THE T30 TORX BOLTS ON BACK OF PUMP AND REMOVE OLD OIL PUMP GEARS. COAT NEW GEARS IN OIL. INSTALL INTO HOUSEING WITH MMR LOGO FACING TOWARDS YOU THE INSTALLER. REINSTALL ALL T30 TORX BOLTS BACK ONTO PUMP HOUSEING WITH NEW GEARS INSIDE AND TURN PUMP INSIDE WITH FINGERS TO VERIFY NO BINDING INSIDE OF HOUSEING.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_132146[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_132657[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_133032[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_140731[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 14: REINSTALL PUMP BACK ONTO CRANKSHAFT, INSTALL BOTH 10MM BOLTS ON OIL PICKUP, THEN INSTALL BOTH 8MM'S, 1 9MM AND 1 13MM STUD BACK ONTO PUMP. TORQUE SPEC FOR PUMP IS...
    Stage 1: Hand tighten.
    Stage 2: Tighten the bolt (1) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in), the stud bolt (2) to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft), the bolt (3) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) and the stud bolt (4) to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
    Stage 3: Tighten the bolt (1) an additional 45 degrees, the stud bolt (2) an additional 75 degrees, the bolt (3) an additional 45 degrees and the stud bolt (4) an additional 60 degrees.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_141952[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_142444[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_142449[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_142457[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_145241[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
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    20140208_145246[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_145257[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 15:
    THEN REVERSE ORDER OF INSTALLING TIMING COMPONENTS BACK ON.
    INSTALL LH SIDE CHAIN BACK ON WITH MATCHING BACK UP MARKED COMPONENTS ON TOP AND BOTTOM.
    THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT BACK CLOCKWISE SO KEYWAY IS BACK AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION.
    THEN REINSTALL RH SIDE TIMING CHAIN AND COMPONENTS, MATCH UP MARKED SPOTS.
    **NOTE**
    **Compress the primary timing chain tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise. Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism, then push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing. Install a suitable pin into the hole of the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in place during installation. **

    TORQUE BOTH RH AND LH TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS TO 89 INCH POUNDS, TORQUE BOTH 10MM TIMING GUIDE BOLTS TO 89 INCH POUNDS.
    STEP 16:
    BEFORE INSTALLING FRONT ENGINE COVER MAKE SURE TO TURN ENGINE OVER BY HAND SO IT DOES AT LEAST 4 COMPLETE REVOLUTIONS TO VERIFY NOTHING IS HITTING AND ENGINE TURNS OVER FREELY. (WILL MAKE IT EASY IF SPARK PLUGS ARE ALL REMOVED).
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_151636[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 17:
    INSTALL NEW GASKETS ON FRONT ENGINE COVER AND CLEAN OFF OLD SILICONE. PUT NEW SILICONE ON SPOTS MARKED IN PICTURE BELOW.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_123051[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 18:
    TORQUE FRONT COVER WITHIN 5 MINS OF APPLYING SILICONE, JUST USE A SORT OF STAR PATTERN ON TORQUING DOWN FRONT COVER.
    ALL FRONT ENGINE COVER BOLTS GET TORQUED TO 18 FOOT POUNDS AND THEN AN ADDITIONAL 60DEGREES.
    THEN TORQUE THE 2 STUDS AND 2 BOLTS ON THE FRONT OF THE OIL PAN TO 89 INCH POUNDS THEN AN ADDITIONAL 45 DEGREES.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_153402[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_162845[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr

    STEP 19:
    REINSTALL ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, IDLER'S, BELT TENSIONER, WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY, THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY, COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY, SERP BELTS, BOTH RH AND LH VALVE COVERS (DONT FORGET TO PUT SILICONE ON WHERE THE FRONT COVER AND CYLINDER HEAD MEETS BEFORE PUTTING ON THE VALVE COVERS), BATTERY TRAY AND BATTERY, AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY AND DEGAS BOTTLE AND HOSES.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_162913[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_163257[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG][/URL]
    20140208_165508[/URL] by spaded707[/URL], on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_170331 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_174327 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_181026 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_184029 by spaded707, on Flickr
    OTHER TORQUE SPECS:
    ALTERNATOR BOLTS- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    IDLERS- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    BELT TENSIONER- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    WATER PUMP BOLTS- 177 INCH POUNDS THEN ADDITIONAL 60 DEGREES
    THERMOSTAT HOUSING BOLTS- 89 INCH POUNDS
    VALVE COVER BOLTS- 89 INCH POUNDS
    WATER PUMP PULLEY BOLTS- 18 FOOT POUNDS
    CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT-
    Stage 1: Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Loosen 360 degrees.
    Stage 3: Tighten to 100 Nm (74 lb-ft).
    Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

    STEP 20:
    PERFORM ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE THEN REFILL AND BLEED COOLANT. I ALSO CRANKED ENGINE OVER A COUPLE TIMES BEFORE STARTING TO MAKE SURE OIL GOT EVERYWHERE FIRST.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_184035 by spaded707, on Flickr

    -Thomas
     
  3. jewc75

    jewc75 Cant Stop, Wont Stop

    18,206
    11
    This should be stickied.
     
  4. wbt

    wbt forum member

    2,323
    1
    Any plans to swap that hot air intake out?
     
  5. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    Yea swapped out with a Paxton...
     
  6. wbt

    wbt forum member

    2,323
    1
    +1

    BTW - nice write up.

    :beer:
     
  7. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Infrequent poster

    264
    2
    Blazer707:

    Excellent write-up, better than a shop manual!

    Thanks for taking the time to photograph the steps and provide clear written instructions. :thumb:

    Chris
     
  8. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

    2,925
    59
    Great write-up thanks.
     
  9. onebadgsx

    onebadgsx Senior Member

    1,801
    0
    Cant you do the same with the black links already on the chains? I had to pull my apart as it sat, since tge crabk was locked up. I am.assuming i can put the mark on the sprocket down and line up the black links with that and the l and r on the cam sprockets with there black links??
     
  10. skwerl

    skwerl tree hugger

    15,163
    127
    Yes, you can retime it using the stock guide marks. It's easier to see the bottom mark on the rear chain looking under the crank. If you're starting from scratch then previous marks aren't needed.
     
  11. onebadgsx

    onebadgsx Senior Member

    1,801
    0
    Can the crank be 180 out or is there only 1 way for everything to line up?
     
  12. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    You can completely retime using the black marks on the chains. I use white out because it makes it easier to see for me and I have always done it that way. If your keyway is at 12 o clock and the cam data matrixes are not showing then you need to turn the crank one full turn more to line it all up.
     
  13. UltraKla$$ic

    UltraKla$$ic PERENNIAL WAXXER

    17,148
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    This x100000000000000

    STICKY!!!
     
  14. captdistraction

    captdistraction Corner Carver

    613
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    This is a great writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

    Also talked me out of checking out my oil pump until either A) a cam install (since you're about 2 steps away) or B) pulling the motor (since its just a dozen bolts or less away)
     
  15. 9secCOBRA

    9secCOBRA Junior Member

    13
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    Great write up.. Thanks
     
  16. Sky Render

    Sky Render Stig's Retarded Cousin S197 Team Member

    9,029
    156
    I didn't know you could install an oil pump without pulling the engine out. Nice writeup!
     
  17. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    Yea its not to bad. Thanks.
     
  18. Fast351

    Fast351 I can't drive 55

    137
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    Nice. If you're swapping the front cover to the milled version before installing a blower, this should be a mandatory change. It eliminates about half of the failures I've read about post-blower on this forum!
     
  19. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Official Site Vendor

    191
    0
    I would completely agree, On my buddies TVS install I wish we would've done the milled front cover and oil pump gears during the TVS install.
     
  20. ArizonaGT

    ArizonaGT Road Course Member

    1,248
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    Killer.