2006 4.6 3v Timing Chain Replacement Questions

[Walter]

Hello there. I am trying to do some preventative maintenance on my mustang, everyone says not to use aftermarket parts for a timing chain system replacement because it will make your engine explode. OEM parts are pretty expensive but I might just save up for a complete replacement of pretty much everything in the system anyways, just to save myself from the headache.
I'm talking chains, arms, tensioners, phasers, crankshaft sprocket, vvt solenoids, oil and water pump, pulleys*, belt, front main seal and timing cover gaskets.
*My dad says that the clicking might be the bearings in one of the pulleys, I forget which one he said it might be.
My car has 170,000~ miles, original engine, sometimes it makes a clicking noise after it starts, and when I reach around 2,500 rpm I can hear the clicking noise more clearly.
My questions for you guys:

With this many miles and the problems I am having, do I need to replace the camshaft phasers?
Do I need to replace the crankshaft sprocket?
Do I need to replace the vvt solenoids?
Do I need to replace the pulleys?
Should I replace anything else?
Do you guys think that replacing these things will fix the clicking?
For anyone who has done this before, did you only replace the chains, tensioners and arms? Am I trying to replace too many things for one job?
If you have done this before but didn't use OEM parts, how has your engine held up? How many miles has it been since you did the job?

 

[Samos3]

A thought....if you replace everything, you can be pretty sure if it is still there, it's something else.

If you don't replace everything, and it is still there, you will wonder if it is something that was right on front of you when you did the other stuff. And you won't like doing it all again.

Clicking/tapping could also be in the valvetrain/cam followers/adjusters/etc.

 

[Squiggle05GT]

I'm also about to replace the timing stuff on my car too. I'm going with the ford performance Timing kit, but using some mmr billet chain guides instead of the plastic ones, same with the tensioners and also getting the rocker and lashers set ford performance also sells. I don't know If I'm going to replace the springs or not, maybe later on if I decide to get some aftermarket cams

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Hello there. I am trying to do some preventative maintenance on my mustang, everyone says not to use aftermarket parts for a timing chain system replacement because it will make your engine explode. OEM parts are pretty expensive but I might just save up for a complete replacement of pretty much everything in the system anyways, just to save myself from the headache.
I'm talking chains, arms, tensioners, phasers, crankshaft sprocket, vvt solenoids, oil and water pump, pulleys*, belt, front main seal and timing cover gaskets.
*My dad says that the clicking might be the bearings in one of the pulleys, I forget which one he said it might be.
My car has 170,000~ miles, original engine, sometimes it makes a clicking noise after it starts, and when I reach around 2,500 rpm I can hear the clicking noise more clearly.
My questions for you guys:

With this many miles and the problems I am having, do I need to replace the camshaft phasers?
Do I need to replace the crankshaft sprocket?
Do I need to replace the vvt solenoids?
Do I need to replace the pulleys?
Should I replace anything else?
Do you guys think that replacing these things will fix the clicking?
For anyone who has done this before, did you only replace the chains, tensioners and arms? Am I trying to replace too many things for one job?
If you have done this before but didn't use OEM parts, how has your engine held up? How many miles has it been since you did the job?

Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes and yes to more parts. These parts should be replaced on any 4.6L 3V engine at the 150k mile service if this procedure hasn't already been performed earlier.

Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V
Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V
Felpro Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket Set: ES73226
OEM valve stem oil seals: 3L3Z-6571-DA (or Viton valve stem oil seals)
PQY Performance valve spring compressor: VSC07B (for the above)
OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A
OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA)

Since the timing cover will be coming off, you'll also need valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets, and a timing cover seal.
You don't need to replace the water pump as part of this service but you can do it if you want as preventive maintenance.
By all means manually spin the idler/tensioner pulleys and see if any of those need replacing, and get a new serpentine belt.

 

[JC SSP]

Again and one more time…. This should be a sticky for future use.

Thx Dino for putting this together for all of us. I owe you a cold beer.

 

[GriffX]

You can change the idler pulley bearings alone, incl tensioner.
3x 6203-2RSH C3
1x 6303-2RSH C3

 

[MasterofDisaster]

Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes and yes to more parts. These parts should be replaced on any 4.6L 3V engine at the 150k mile service if this procedure hasn't already been performed earlier.

Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V
Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V
Felpro Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket Set: ES73226
OEM valve stem oil seals: 3L3Z-6571-DA (or Viton valve stem oil seals)
PQY Performance valve spring compressor: VSC07B (for the above)
OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A
OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA)

Since the timing cover will be coming off, you'll also need valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets, and a timing cover seal.
You don't need to replace the water pump as part of this service but you can do it if you want as preventive maintenance.
By all means manually spin the idler/tensioner pulleys and see if any of those need replacing, and get a new serpentine belt.

Dino -

I'll be over 150k miles in early 2025. What's the risk if I don't replace these parts? How long can I defer it?

Thanks,

MoD

 

[skwerl]

A good time to upgrade the oil pump to a Melling high volume pump as well. I did the 2005 5.4 in my F350 2-3 years ago. All 100% Ford parts except the oil pump. Got a kit on sale from an online ford dealer I found on Google. Included the complete timing set with everything needed in one box.
Did rockers and lifters as well. That was a Ford Racing kit. I never used a spring compressor, just unbolted the cam slowly and replaced the parts. Then slowly and carefully tightened it back down working each bolt a little at a time.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Dino -

I'll be over 150k miles in early 2025. What's the risk if I don't replace these parts? How long can I defer it?

Thanks,

MoD

As long as the engine isn't producing any abnormal ticking, rattling, or knocking sounds, you can defer it for as long as you need. The key is to act quickly when the engine does start making any of those types of noises and not wait in the hope that it'll magically disappear.
At the rate I'm going it'll take me at least 15 years to reach 150k miles and by then I'll be 76!

 

[lwarrior1016]

Dino -

I'll be over 150k miles in early 2025. What's the risk if I don't replace these parts? How long can I defer it?

Thanks,

MoD

I don’t think there really is a magic number to when this stuff needs to be replaced. My car has 220k miles on it, and the lady before me treated it wrong. But the engine is smooth, quiet, and has great oil pressure.

They are pretty well known parts to fail, but no real idea as to when.

You could cut the oil filter open and check for debris. Or even send an oil sample to black stone labs.

 

[JC SSP]

I did an oil analysis and everything came back perfect for a 120k original engine.

Although, I am planning on doing this refresh sometime in 2025.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

As long as the engine isn't producing any abnormal ticking, rattling, or knocking sounds, you can defer it for as long as you need. The key is to act quickly when the engine does start making any of those types of noises and not wait in the hope that it'll magically disappear.
At the rate I'm going it'll take me at least 15 years to reach 150k miles and by then I'll be 76!

Thanks! BTW - you're still just a kid.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

A good time to upgrade the oil pump to a Melling high volume pump as well. I did the 2005 5.4 in my F350 2-3 years ago. All 100% Ford parts except the oil pump. Got a kit on sale from an online ford dealer I found on Google. Included the complete timing set with everything needed in one box.
Did rockers and lifters as well. That was a Ford Racing kit. I never used a spring compressor, just unbolted the cam slowly and replaced the parts. Then slowly and carefully tightened it back down working each bolt a little at a time.

How do you like the 5.4?

 

[skwerl]

How do you like the 5.4?

They are good engines. I had a 2002 F150 Lariat for 16 years with that engine. I sold the F350 to my buddy a year and a half ago but he still parks it in my yard. It still runs great, no engine issues at all. The truck is kind of beat from previous owners but it is reliable.

I upgraded to a slightly newer, much nicer 2008 F450 with a v-10 which is also a great engine but gets even worse gas mileage. But the truck is in perfect condition for a 17 year old work truck.

 

[Juice]

Why not actually troubleshoot the ticking noise? Use a long screwdriver or socket extension as a stethoscope to narro it down. Possibly even pull valve covers. All practically free to do.

You can look at mode 6 data with Forscan or Torque, and actually see how much timing errors are, a good indicator of timing chain and timing component wear.

But Im cheap lol

 

[thump_rrr]

Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes and yes to more parts. These parts should be replaced on any 4.6L 3V engine at the 150k mile service if this procedure hasn't already been performed earlier.

Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V
Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V
Felpro Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket Set: ES73226
OEM valve stem oil seals: 3L3Z-6571-DA (or Viton valve stem oil seals)
PQY Performance valve spring compressor: VSC07B (for the above)
OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A
OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA)

Since the timing cover will be coming off, you'll also need valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets, and a timing cover seal.
You don't need to replace the water pump as part of this service but you can do it if you want as preventive maintenance.
By all means manually spin the idler/tensioner pulleys and see if any of those need replacing, and get a new serpentine belt.

Timing cover gaskets (3) and timing cover seal should be included in the M-6004-463V kit.
Also a new crankshaft bolt F5RZ6A340B is required since it is torque to yield.

 

[JC SSP]

What about the front timing cover crank seal?

 

[skwerl]

Timing cover gaskets (3) and timing cover seal should be included in the M-6004-463V kit.
Also a new crankshaft bolt F5RZ6A340B is required since it is torque to yield.

What about the front timing cover crank seal?

As posted, it is included in the kit. The gaskets wrap all the way around beneath the crank.

 

[JC SSP]

Ok THX.

I have an ARP crank bolt so won’t need that. Getting ready to do this in 2025. Lol

 

[thump_rrr]

Ok THX.

I have an ARP crank bolt so won’t need that. Getting ready to do this in 2025. Lol

If you are going with an aftermarket ATI Super Damper you will need a longer crank bolt
ARP 206-1001. The ATI Super Damper should also come with a .031" spacer that sits behind the hub.

The stock damper uses ARP 156-2501