Silver'nStripes
Member
The tires are Hoosier QTP 27" brand new. Before that was a MT ET Street Bias. The QTP seems to hook better but have a softer wall from what I experienced. It wads more than the MT's using the same launch rpm.
It was your post that I followed trying to get this dialed in. But the thread didn't have a conclusion on what you ended up setting your shocks/struts that finally got it to work.
I guess I didn't want to bore everyone here with every little tweak and adjustment I made along the way. Honestly, what 'works' always changes just a little bit depending on track conditions. I'd say my biggest improvements have come after learning what I want the car to do, learning how to diagnose what it's currently doing, and learning what changes I need to make to fix the problem. Here's a video I found a while back that I found to be really helpful with some of that:
I ended up swapping to a long style sintered iron 'slipper' clutch because every time I dumped the clutch with the RXT I was running it hit the suspension so hard that nothing was acting right. Not to say you can't get a good launch with a more conventional clutch.
In general I've fought the sidewall of the tire balling up on the hit. The stiff wall slicks definitely help here. In the videos I've taken you can actually see it unwind and then spin. After watching your video a few times it looks like you might be on the cusp of that, but I don't think there's enough weight transfer to plant the tire. If you still see a significant sidewall wrinkle after loosening the front shocks I'd consider increasing the tire pressure and/or tightening the rebound of the rear shocks.